Rubbermount_EVO Clutch Slipping at higher RPM

[JoeMcc87]

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax

It's unlikely the Pressure Plate was damaged. Did it crack? Did the Diaphragm Spring crack? If you remove & check the Pressure Plate, it should sit flat on a flat surface (not warped).

Usually, after the first few attempts, a reasonable adjustment can be made on the clutch release. I sense there may be something else at play here...



Clarify what you meant -
Did the bike move in 1st gear, then when riding it would slip?
Did you mean the bike cannot move at all under any power because the clutch slips even in 1st gear?

Key OFF - With clutch engaged & trans in 1st gear, can you push the bike back & forth?

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BASICS:

In the stock XL design, there are 8 friction plates, 6 steel plates & one spring plate.

In the Judder configuration, it REQUIRES 8 friction plates and 8 steel plates PLUS the Judder parts. That's two more steel plates.

Be sure you have placed the parts into the basket correctly:

# Judder parts go into the basket 1st - be sure the judder seat plate is in place before the spring plate - and be sure the spring plate is angled (beveled) the right direction (the inside diameter should sit closer to the Hub Base and the outside diameter should sit closer to the Pressure Plate)

# then a steel plate, then a friction plate <--- repleated 8 times
### Be sure the last plate in is a friction plate

# then the pressure plate


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Here’s an example:, I ride it easy and cruise in 4th gear at 35 or 40mph. Then, I roll the throttle half way back… the revs climb way too fast (I’m hitting the limiter in about 3 seconds (6500) and the bike is not pulling hard at all.

I’ve triple checked judder configuration and have the right number of steels / friction plates.

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by JoeMcc87

Here’s an example:, I ride it easy and cruise in 4th gear at 35 or 40mph. Then, I roll the throttle half way back… the revs climb way too fast (I’m hitting the limiter in about 3 seconds (6500) and the bike is not pulling hard at all.

I’ve triple checked judder configuration and have the right number of steels / friction plates.

So, you are getting enough friction / function to get the bike moving.

The opposite extreme of adjustment of the release assembly (from your slipping condition) is that the clutch will drag - meaning the engine will pull the bike forward even with the clutch lever fully pulled against the handlebars - it won't fully release the clutch... If you turn the adjuster screw CLOCKWISE more, the clutch plates should reach a maximum, fully engaged as possible, condition. BE CAREFUL - A DRAGGING CLUTCH CAN BE DANGEROUS - BE READY TO KILL THE ENGINE.

Have you tried turning the adjuster screw more Clockwise to get more (or maximum) clutch compression (friction)?


It seems like we are continuing to go around the barn, without finding the issue... Long distance evaluation is tough...

It's time to get some pictures. Did you take any? If not, I think you need to remove the primary cover and SHOW US with pictures exactly what your install looks like.

We may need a very detailed step-by-step description as you re-assemble the clutch from scratch. We can't see what you have, so your descriptions need to be detailed, including what seems not needed to be said. There may be something we notice in the pics or your descriptions that give us a clue where to go.

It seems something basic is wrong.
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Did re-installing the Snap Ring for the Clutch Diaphragm Spring require less force on your compression tool?

Have you checked the Clutch Pack Thickness? The following chart is from the Sportsterpedia (http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...:priclutch01):



Your Judder clutch pack thickness should be very close to 32.500mm.

If for some reason the clutch pack is too thin, you won't get full friction between the plates.
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Did you get the Spring Seat installed correctly relative to the Diaphragm Spring? (see the SP pictures)
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You need to make sure the Diaphragm Spring is not broken or warped.
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Did you have the Ball & Ramp Assembly apart?
Does the Ball & Ramp have all 3 ball bearings?
Does it open & close properly?
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Did you have the Release Assembly apart?
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IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride On The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

[Tomcatt]

Originally Posted by JoeMcc87

Here’s an example:, I ride it easy and cruise in 4th gear at 35 or 40mph. Then, I roll the throttle half way back… the revs climb way too fast (I’m hitting the limiter in about 3 seconds (6500) and the bike is not pulling hard at all.

Do that again in 4th gear but apply the rear brake while you roll into the throttle. You're trying to keep the bike from accelerating by using the rear brake. Does the engine gain revs and the bike NOT accelerate?

[JoeMcc87]

Update for anyone reading this thread in the future : The issue was simple; The clutch nut that’s on installed after the washer with “OUT” stamped on it has a small lip. That small lip should go in first. With my mistake, the lip was facing away from the bike and pressing in the back of the adjuster screw, which explains why my adjustments were ineffective.

Lesson learned.