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  #51  
Old 23rd July 2023
ryder rick ryder rick is offline
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No drawings of an ironhead case anywhere? Im sure I've seen them somewhere.

The distance between the shafts being critical. Step off that distance from the Mainshaft CL and poke the hole. That distance can be easily found on a good trap door (shaft spacing will be the same on either side).
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  #52  
Old 23rd July 2023
JB in NC JB in NC is online now
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Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
No drawings of an ironhead case anywhere? Im sure I've seen them somewhere.

The distance between the shafts being critical. Step off that distance from the Mainshaft CL and poke the hole. That distance can be easily found on a good trap door (shaft spacing will be the same on either side).
I think that is how I determined the shaft center distance. I used the trap door from the case I was repairing. The jig plate allows more accurate hole location in the absence of a DRO.

Jim
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  #53  
Old 23rd July 2023
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Someone posted them up here years ago. Big discussion (from memory) an cam hole locations.

Like an idiot I didn't download.save them.
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  #54  
Old 23rd July 2023
needspeed needspeed is online now
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Don't forget that after the hole is bored and bushing installed, the boss needs to be spot faced the correct distance down from the case seam so that the ball on the shift shaft engages the pawl carrier correctly.
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  #55  
Old 23rd July 2023
JB in NC JB in NC is online now
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Originally Posted by needspeed View Post
Don't forget that after the hole is bored and bushing installed, the boss needs to be spot faced the correct distance down from the case seam so that the ball on the shift shaft engages the pawl carrier correctly.

Good point. Need to get that depth measurement before you fire up the welder.

Jim
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  #56  
Old 23rd July 2023
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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A few ways to skin a cat.
It doesn’t look like the OP is looking to take any steps more than necessary. Using the trap door allows the repeatability, being the door locating dowels are already in place.
It seems like we all know what SHOULD be done, sometimes that’s just not the case.
You can lead a horse to water, sometimes he’s really in the mood for Pepsi.

Whatever he chooses, no matter what happens, he can always start over. The road just may be longer.
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  #57  
Old 23rd July 2023
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Whatever he chooses, no matter what happens, he can always start over. The road just may be longer.
All motorcycles are merely a work in progress. We merely await the next problem to evolve.
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  #58  
Old 23rd July 2023
JB in NC JB in NC is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iron Mike View Post
A few ways to skin a cat.
It doesn’t look like the OP is looking to take any steps more than necessary. Using the trap door allows the repeatability, being the door locating dowels are already in place.
It seems like we all know what SHOULD be done, sometimes that’s just not the case.
You can lead a horse to water, sometimes he’s really in the mood for Pepsi.

Whatever he chooses, no matter what happens, he can always start over. The road just may be longer.
Trap door does not do you a damned bit of good in this case. There is just a (large) clearance notch for that shift shaft in the trap door. That is why this repair is a bit difficult.

Jim
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  #59  
Old 23rd July 2023
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JB in NC View Post
Trap door does not do you a damned bit of good in this case. There is just a (large) clearance notch for that shift shaft in the trap door. That is why this repair is a bit difficult.

Jim
Yes sir you are correct on the through hole. That’s why I suggested the OP secure a piece of 1/2 material bolted to the damned trap door. That becomes the location for the replicated shifter shaft hole. Eliminating the need to split the cases, and locating the material.
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  #60  
Old 24th July 2023
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PaulSwany PaulSwany is offline
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The cases are already split. I like the idea of using the trap door to locate the holes in the jig. I'm thinking that for locating the shift shaft hole in the jig, I could use a piece of 5/8 drill rod, sharpened to a point, then lowering the jig down on the bolts and tapping it with a hammer to get the center point. As long as the locating holes were accurate and the drill rod was perfectly perpendicular to the hole, it should be dead on.

Alternately, I could bolt the jig plate down, then install the primary cover. Slide a piece of sharpened 1/2" drill rod thru the shift shaft hole to get the center point.
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