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  #21  
Old 14th January 2020
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[QUOTE=jsandidge;5800290]I've been chasing an engine knock, which I suspect is coming from the front cylinder. I pulled the motor and removed the top end. I don't feel any up/down of the rod, but I can wiggle the rod side to side quite a bit. How much movement is too much?

Pulled the motor to do the top end?
Any noise that is related to the rod set will be in both barrels. If a rod set is going away it is like a little man inside with a hammer going Tink, Tink or the thing stops altogether. 0.30-0.35 side to side movement at the top of the front rod. Even if you have a truing stand and a lead hammer, don't go there. It is a job for a professional.
If you were racing and the inside of the cylinder looked like that piston, you'd be in the van going home. Not enough skirt clearance, wrong oil or no oil, overheating, not being nice when seating rings. I could see this happening if Greg Gravelback started it with no oil. Once the pistons start to smear like that they just get worse.
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  #22  
Old 14th January 2020
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When checking the big end bearings isn't the forked rod the one that fails first?

When wiggling at the top to visualize play, shouldn't you wedge the rod to one side so the side clearance doesn't add to the wiggle?

Also look closely at the thrust washers as they will show wear when things go bad?
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  #23  
Old 15th January 2020
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My experience really is with the early 900 engines so take what I say with a dose od salt.

But the damage on the piston appears to be on the intake side. Normally that side will run a little cooler due to the incoming intake charge. Damage from heat related causes most often occurs on the exhaust side. Not definitive but I just wonder.

I understand (think) they changed the pinion gear setup on these later engines ?

I ask because funnily enough a failed pinion bearing on a 900 produces a knock that some people think sounds like piston slap. It doesn't to me, but that's just me.

Have you had a very good look at your oil ? I would be looking for very shiny silver bits. Just in case.

Pinion bearings don't fail all that often but that doesn't mean never.

Something has caused damage to that piston. But it looks a but different to what I'd expect as a result of an air leak.

Normally, with an air leak the engine runs badly enough in the mid range to tell you that there is a serious problem somewhere.

Did you notice a "miss' from 2 to 3 grand before you pulled it down ?
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  #24  
Old 15th January 2020
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Also, is there a difference in bore size between the front and rear cylinders?
How does the rear piston size compare to the bore? (and no damage/wear?)
Is the front side of the piston in good shape?
Does either piston have debris embedded in the skirt?

The vacuum leak theory doesn't carry much weight for me.
I don't think the intake plenum is large enough to significantly separate the two cylinders.
I am thinking it may have something to do with cam timing or ignition?
Is the front pipe blue and the rear not?
I'd carefully remove the cam cover and see how the cams are timed,
that will also give you a look at the pinion bearing and to see if there is any debris collected in the bottom of the cam chest.
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Old 15th January 2020
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Excessive low idle speed??
Agressive rpm on cold eng??
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I'm curious as to how well the engine was running other than the knocking noise.

Most of these other things, ignition timing, intake leaks etc will effect how the engine runs. Mechanical problems (the ones that make noises) often don't effect the enginess eunning until it becomes catastrophic in some way.

Or, the noise gets so loud you can no longer ignore it.
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Old 15th January 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post

The vacuum leak theory doesn't carry much weight for me.
I don't think the intake plenum is large enough to significantly separate the two cylinders..
Kool. So you can just re-jet the carb to compensate for the air leak and live happily ever after.
And to think I wasted so much propane doing tests that weren’t needed these past 49 years.
My carbon footprint is just so too too large.
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Old 15th January 2020
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Pulled the motor to do the top end?

No, I pulled the motor to replace the busted rear motor mount.

Did you notice a "miss' from 2 to 3 grand before you pulled it down ?

No.

[I]Also, is there a difference in bore size between the front and rear cylinders?

No.

How does the rear piston size compare to the bore? (and no damage/wear?)

I haven't compared the piston size to the bore. I'll check it this weekend.

Is the front side of the piston in good shape?

Yes.

Does either piston have debris embedded in the skirt?

No.

Is the front pipe blue and the rear not?

Neither pipe has any significant blueing.

I'd carefully remove the cam cover and see how the cams are timed,
that will also give you a look at the pinion bearing and to see if there is any debris collected in the bottom of the cam chest.


I'll do that.
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And the rear piston is completely untouched?

More pictures would cut down on the questions.
I'd like to see the top of both pistons as well.

It's looking more and more to me like it got ran too long at a slow idle.
Are there any signs of heat inside the piston? (Pipes were not blue)
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Does the later engines have an engine mount like a Pingal ?

Or is this a repair you can do with the mount in situ ?
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