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  #21  
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Originally Posted by RicThompson View Post
Speaking of piston clearance what do you recommend I set those forged pistons up at? .004?
I believe I have been a victim of setting up to tight in the past on my 93 inch Shovelhead. The crown of the piston separated from the skirt. Crown stuck at top of cylinder while skirt still attached to rod continued to travel up and down.
This is usually caused by a ring end gap that is too small.
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Guys keep making references to head drain oil lubing the skirts. I call BS.

The pistons are oiled by the oil that is thrown off the big end of the rod.

The drain oil from the heads is way too hot to be useful for lubing the pistons and also has a much smaller volume than what is thrown up by the crank.

Additionally the crank actually throws too much oil up and the race guys restrict the feed, at the price of not being able to let the motor idle.
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Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
Guys keep making references to head drain oil lubing the skirts. I call BS.

The pistons are oiled by the oil that is thrown off the big end of the rod.

The drain oil from the heads is way too hot to be useful for lubing the pistons and also has a much smaller volume than what is thrown up by the crank.

Additionally the crank actually throws too much oil up and the race guys restrict the feed, at the price of not being able to let the motor idle.
I don't know if I'd go that far. HD and S&S saw the need for under piston oilers. That tells me splash from the crank wasn't doing enough.
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cooling and return are diff animals.
sure you can delete the head drains and can buy jugs without the rifle hole.
i do not think hd was set on skirt oiling as the main goal. look at the cant of the heads, in order for the oil to return to the gear case, it would have to rise to the level it would spill over into the p/r tubes. this poses an issue with oil control.
the drains are at a low point, diff'l pressure helps pull the oil out along with gravity.
does it lube the skirts??? hummmm, well maybe and maybe not so much, look at the position and relation to piston and diff'l pressure.
as far as high oil temp???? not an issue the oil basically normalizes. this even so with the oil jet on the exh valve.
yep plenty use external drain, but a stocker lives happily on for decades.
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but a stocker lives happily on for decades.
Then you ain't revvin' it hard enough.

External lines are easy to do
They make it look like a race engine

But that' just my opinion.
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I don't know if I'd go that far. HD and S&S saw the need for under piston oilers. That tells me splash from the crank wasn't doing enough.
It doesn't do it well at idle. (low RPMs)

If you added squirters you could cut back the oil fed to the crank even more!
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the ole ch has seen 7.5k redline many times, that was a stock redline from the factory. i never showed it mercy and have the scars to prove it from figure 8 to taking the front end off a 1972 chevy impala, no plastic bumber there. we took a few k mile runs and our cruise speed was 80 mph, out of vib zone.
this is where i diff, i like stealth. i prefer to have scat, not look like it can. my 01 sport has surprised many rice riders, if you look at it, looks like an 883 and that is what i tell them, just an stock 883. i carry no badges so the only tell is the shocks.
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This is usually caused by a ring end gap that is too small.
Spot on.
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the ole ch has seen 7.5k redline many times, that was a stock redline from the factory. i never showed it mercy and have the scars to prove it from figure 8 to taking the front end off a 1972 chevy impala, no plastic bumber there. we took a few k mile runs and our cruise speed was 80 mph, out of vib zone.
this is where i diff, i like stealth. i prefer to have scat, not look like it can. my 01 sport has surprised many rice riders, if you look at it, looks like an 883 and that is what i tell them, just an stock 883. i carry no badges so the only tell is the shocks.
Here in the San Antonio area I seldom see anything but baggers on the road these days. Most these younger riders especially the foreign bike guys wouldn't know an Ironheads performance if it had a neon sign on it.
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If building one for myself ,the clearance would be .004 front and .0045 rear with proper break in.

If putting one in the hands of a customer it's .005 and .0055. cause I know it won't go 50

miles before getting a dose of WOT .
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