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  #1  
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Default Crankcase venting

I'm thinking ahead. Roadrace rules require all vents to plumb into a catch can, with the catch can dumping into a belly pan in the event it overflows. I'd like to do away with that.

Is there any reason I can't take the 3/8" vent hose coming off the front of the cam cover, use a "T" fitting, and plumb it into the oil return going into the tank? I would do something similar with the 1/4" barbed vent on the cam cover and the smaller vent on the top rear of the cases.

This would eliminate a catch bottle moving around or falling off. I hose clamped a plastic water bottle to my Can Am roadracer frame downtube, and it rotated to melt against my pipe. Fortunately, there was no oil in it. I'd like to avoid something similar.
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You're not venting then. Putting it right back in the crankcase. Not good. You'll be blowing gaskets.
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The main reason they don't want you venting directly to the atmosphere is, in the event of a serious engine failure the crank cases can become pressurized and blow a large amount of oil out the vent tube.

The best way to approach this is to use a PCV valve and dump into a ctach tank. Look at this as part of the race bike, not some add on your forced to do.

On my old Ducati Singles I actually vented into the frame itself.

On my sidecar I use a professional tank I bought from a race car supply store for about $50.
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I'm not a road racer. I'm a mechanic. The factory puts the crankcase breather into the air filter box. If you are running a air filter in a box can you put a small vented bottle in the air filter box? That would allow air to recirculate with some or most of the residue collecting in the concealed catch bottle. Just a thought.
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I've seen catch bottles fill and then dump onto the track, which never earns you any friends. Now we have to have a tray under the engine lined with absorbent material, and a hose running from the top of the catch can into the tray. I want to use a PCV valve but don't know what to look for. Auto parts store don't have them on display with dimensions. Can anyone suggest an application or part number for a PCV valve with 3/8" barbs (or male hose connections) on both ends? That, or a website that lists them by dimensions? The club just strengthened the rules for catch cans. No more soda bottles.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
The main reason they don't want you venting directly to the atmosphere is, in the event of a serious engine failure the crank cases can become pressurized and blow a large amount of oil out the vent tube.

The best way to approach this is to use a PCV valve and dump into a ctach tank. Look at this as part of the race bike, not some add on your forced to do.

On my old Ducati Singles I actually vented into the frame itself.

On my sidecar I use a professional tank I bought from a race car supply store for about $50.
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https://www.haydensm6.com/kvp.htm
Specifically the KVP38.
Don't believe the hp claims but otherwise it does what it says.
I run mine out of the cam chest. You could easily mount a breathable can on the front tube.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 1 Week Ago at 02:33..
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Our rules stipulate a minimum size. It's now 500 cc's (I think !)

I use one from an XLCR on my sidecar. Makes the whole job pretty easy.
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Look for a turbo Mercedes check valve, not a PCV valve. Basically you need a setup similar to the 77-78 Foo Foo valve venting to a barf bucket. Sorry but I can't remember the part number.
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Here's what I found. Thanks to 60gunner, but I'm far too cheap to pay $124 for what would cost a fraction of that if it were for a car. Summit sells an inline Russell check valve, item no. 650613 which would work great at $35.99, but it has male 8 AN fittings on both ends. All is not lost, as Summit sells an 8 AN to 3/8" hose adaptor for $4.49 each (Derale AN Swivel Hose Barb Fittings 98201). I'm not entirely sure of the difference between a check valve and PCV valve. I just want a valve that allows pressure to flow one way and not the other.
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It's a bad idea to use one built for a car.
The vacuum in the crankcase is different and they are need specific.
It's best to buy one that is built for a Harley.

It be interesting to find some of you race guys that have knowledge of at what RPM your engine goes from vacuum to positive pressure.
That is when you are liable to puke oil out the breather vent.
I've done some testing on mine, albeit without load.
Using a homemade slack tube, I went positive around 5000 rpm.
With a digital manometer hooked to the oil cap, you may be able to fine tune your breathing system to avoid as much puking as possible.

Gunner, do you remember that cheap knock-off Hayden valve?
I can't remember who has it at the moment.

Here is some of what I've been doing (down with with a bad stator but not done yet).

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread...073932&page=82

5000 RPM:
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