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  #1  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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ldurmon ldurmon is offline
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Default Finally Building

It has been a very long time since I came by here but now I am actually building my bike. It took a bit to get the neck cups out but they are out and the conversion set is in and the new forks are on. Anyone have any ideas on fork stops? Not sure if it can be done with the 1 inch cup conversion. I put a Demons Cycle 2000 and up front end on stock length.
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  #2  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
RicThompson RicThompson is offline
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What frame are you using? What equipment do you have available, grinder, welder? I cleaned up my lower tree and went with hidden stops.
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It is the Paughco rigid frame but it was just powder coated. I found some cups with built on stop lug I may buy. Don't want to mess up the powder coat.
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It appears you have gotten bike assembly steps out of order and you may have to sacrifice that powder coating job.

When assembling a custom bike it is best to get all the components installed raw or just spray painted so you can make changes as needed, weld on brackets, or spuds for bolts, add steering stops, etc. You can't do this if the frame is powder coated, you have to clean off powder coating to weld, and you don't want to just punch holes through the frame to mount parts.

Is your fuel tank mounted? Oil tank? Battery box? Exhaust? Brake caliper anchor in the rear? Not using a disc brake? Then you need a brake pedal linkage and mounts. Foot pegs. Oil filter mount, voltage regulator mount, oil cooler mount, where are you putting the ignition switch and the circuit breakers. You will need tabs to mount the rear fender and seat.

All of these steps should be finished before any powder coating, paint, or polish.
I hope you have a replica stock frame and all of these issues have already been taken care of. If you have a custom frame like a hard tail or stretched & raked you need to get over damaging the powder coating and accept that you will have to powder coat again after finishing the frame work that will be needed. If you try to just clamp stuff on or punch holes in the frame for bolts, your finished product will suffer, and it will have no value to anyone but you.

You should not drill holes through the frame, you should weld on tabs or weld in threaded inserts or sleeves. Your tank brackets are best welded in so the tank stays straight also the tanks should be rubber mounted or it will likely crack and leak.

Unless you are using a small tank you will discover that handle bars and controls, fork trees/stops, and the fuel tank, all want to occupy the same space. Nothing shouts poor planning like dents in the tank where the trees hit, or scratches in the top of the tank where the controls and cables drag over the top of them. Or the wrong tank that has to be mounted goofy to miss these things.

Don't get too whimsical or try to be to different or you will end up with something that looks like it is Frankensteined together or looks like an Art Car with dolls glued to it. Different is good but be subtle and it all has to fit together nicely. NO WARTS!

And if you plan to ACTUALLY RIDE it, I implore you to keep safety in mind and do conventional controls, no hand shifts or suicide clutches. Avoid anything that makes it difficult to ride. Even simple stuff like the location of the starter button and a kill switch on the bars can make a huge difference in your life expectancy. The bike needs to be fun and easy to ride and reliable or you won't ride it past the honeymoon period.

And lastly don't ride it without replacing the 2 exploding gears in the trans with Andrews. Don't put, short, Fat, or Drag pipes on it. And don't idle it lower than 900 rpm or idle it for extended periods.
I am not telling you what to do, I am showing you the mistakes I have made.
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I didn't do the powder coat. It was done by the guy that was supposed to build it. All I really have to work with is the frame motor and wheels. This means new electrical, lighting, front end, seat, gas tank etc. I got a 2000 front end, axed 4 gallon tank and new seat. We will find out how that works. I either did not get stuff back or what did come back was ruined. Right now I just have the motor, oil tank,and forks on the frame. Looking good but I will have to sort out the brakes.

Last edited by ldurmon; 1 Week Ago at 20:04.. Reason: Added photo
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Old 1 Week Ago
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
It appears you have gotten bike assembly steps out of order and you may have to sacrifice that powder coating job.

When assembling a custom bike it is best to get all the components installed raw or just spray painted so you can make changes as needed, weld on brackets, or spuds for bolts, add steering stops, etc. You can't do this if the frame is powder coated, you have to clean off powder coating to weld, and you don't want to just punch holes through the frame to mount parts.

Is your fuel tank mounted? Oil tank? Battery box? Exhaust? Brake caliper anchor in the rear? Not using a disc brake? Then you need a brake pedal linkage and mounts. Foot pegs. Oil filter mount, voltage regulator mount, oil cooler mount, where are you putting the ignition switch and the circuit breakers. You will need tabs to mount the rear fender and seat.

All of these steps should be finished before any powder coating, paint, or polish.
All that has to be done first??? They sure do make it look easy on TV!

Is it the angle of the pic or is that frame really wide in the rear?
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Angle of pic. It had and will have again the 9 spoke mags from the FXR. The only thing that is changing from original is the front end, tank, and seat. Whatever else changes is by necessity as a result of not getting the old parts back in usable condition.

Last edited by ldurmon; 1 Week Ago at 20:50.. Reason: Addition of info.
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That sure looks like a wide tire frame would need a custom rear wheel, axle and spacers.
The motor may need an offset drive sprocket to clear the tire which also means you will have to engineer a different clutch release to clear the sprocket.
Those are wide-glide trees and a Sportster front wheel will not fit well.
I see you have FXR wheels, an FXR had a narrow (Sportster) front wheel.
And likely had crap 10" brakes. A later single 11.5" brake setup will work better.
Was it assembled and running previously? If the FXR rear wheel will line up the brake and chain it will likely be OK.

I don't see tank mounts or seat mounts either.
No rear fender? Got a rear master cylinder mount?
Those forward controls don't need folding pegs, they will bend the first time it tips over.
Does it have a side stand mount?

To install internal steering stops you are going to have to knock out the lower cup and install a tabbed cup and pin it straight in the frame so it wont spin.

Nice large oil tank, does it have a battery box on the other side? Is it mounted?

Looks like the frame has a stretched backbone but no rise this means the fuel tank needs a very low top and a shallow bottom to clear the motor in the back, and not very long as it will get into the trees. A deep tunnel in the front will help to clear the frame. A Frisco style tank will probably not look right and need tall bars to clear.
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This is what I started with. Yes I have the battery tray but it is not installed yet.


It had no front breaks, gas tank leaked and the rake and trail were way off. The guy that was supposed to fix those things stripped it and he cut some studs off where that tank mounted. Long story. Finally rebuilding with what I got back.

Last edited by ldurmon; 1 Week Ago at 23:44.. Reason: Pic didnt show
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