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Old 6th September 2019
boomerguy boomerguy is offline
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Default Replacing Clutch Spring Plate and Throw Out Bearing

The following is how I replaced my Clutch Spring Plate aka Grenade Plate in addition to the throw out bearing. I did not use a performance package, I just replaced the grenade with three stock plates (2 steel, 1 friction).
The throw out bearing is an upgrade to the FAG 7200B. This job can be done now or at any other time when the Derby cover is off.
I'm not saying this is the only way or the best way. It's just how I did it and it worked perfectly. My stock spring plate and my stock throw out bearing were still like new but I didn't want to take a chance on either "time bomb". The only changes were a smoother clutch lever and a slightly quicker clutch engagement. No noise or problems of any kind.

Sportster Clutch Spring Plate (Grenade Plate) Replacement

Replacement Parts:
Derby Cover O-ring
James River primary gasket kit
Zip-ties (2) for the clutch cable adjusting nut boot
20W/50 V-Twin Motorcycle Oil – 32 oz. (1 quart)
Steel plates (2) – OEM
Friction plate (1) – OEM (Pre-soak in primary oil for at least 20 minutes.)
FAG 7200B TVP Angular Contact Bearing

Tools:
Motorcycle jack
Drain pan
Clean rags
Rubber mallet to tap the primary cover after the screws are removed
Sharpie marker
Picks or small diameter telescopic magnet to pull plates out
Cups and trays to hold screws
Clutch spring compression tool
Blue Loctite
Gasket sealant
Battery powered screwdriver for hex and torx head screws
Flat blade screwdriver – thin shaft for removing clutch adjuster locknut
1/2” open end wrench – for cable nuts
9/16” open end wrench for cable lock nut and clutch spring compression tool shaft
5/32” Allen head bit for primary chain inspection plate
5/16” Allen head bit for foot pegs
5/8” open end wrench for primary oil drain bolt
7/8” wrench for lock nut on chain adjuster bolt
1/4” Allen head bit for chain adjuster bolt and foot pegs
T27 Torx bit – for Derby cover
3/16” Allen Head bit for primary cover screws
Torque wrench (1/4” drive)
Torque wrench (1/2” drive)
Cardboard template of primary cover gasket with screw holes and numbered sequence of torqueing

With motorcycle leaning on the Jiffy Stand:
1. Warm the engine to normal operating temperature.
2. Place drain pan underneath the primary drive drain bolt.
3. Remove the primary chain inspection plate screws to let air in as oil drains. Replace the O-rings and set aside along with a new gasket for installation after the new oil is installed.
4. Open the magnetic drain bolt (5/8” head) to let the oil drain into the drain pan. Wipe the fines off, clean the threads, replace the O-ring and apply gasket sealant to the O-ring and threads.
5. Straddle the motorcycle and hold it level to drain the rest of the oil.
6. Lean the motorcycle on the jiffy stand.
7. Replace the drain bolt. Torque to 20 ft-lbs.

With motorcycle sitting level on the Jack:
1. Raise the motorcycle on the jack.
2. Remove the two clamps that hold the clutch cable to the frame. Remove the zip-ties and slide off the boot. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.
3. Remove the left side foot peg bracket. (mid-control bike)
4. Loosen the primary chain adjuster bolt all the way.
5. Mark the position of the gear shift lever with a Sharpie and remove it. Remove the rubber gear shift lever shaft seal, a new one will be installed later.

Remove the DERBY COVER:
1. Loosen the Derby Cover screws head bit in a “Star-Pattern”. Hold the Derby Cover in place while removing the last screw so the spring holding the clutch adjuster locknut doesn’t fly out.
2. Remove the clutch adjuster locknut. With a thin shaft, flat blade screwdriver, turn the clutch adjuster screw CW until you can manually unscrew the locknut and remove it from the screwdriver shaft.
3. Remove the ramp assembly from the clutch cable end and do not let loose of the clutch cable end until you have removed it from the clutch cable or it will fall into the primary and disappear. Leave the clutch cable attached to the primary cover.

Remove the PRIMARY COVER:
1. Using the new primary gasket, make a cardboard template with holes in it for storing the screws. Remove the primary bolts in proper order and insert them into the cardboard template. (See the Blue Bible for proper order of removing, replacing and torqueing – p. 6-6).
2. Remove the rubber seal on the shifter shaft.
3. Set the primary cover aside with the clutch cable still attached. (You can use the drain pan for supporting this.) Place some rags underneath the primary cover before removing it to catch any drips.
4. Replace the rubber oil seal in the hole for the shifter shaft.

Replace the CLUTCH PLATES:
1. Install clutch spring compressor tool and shaft. Compress the clutch spring and use a small screwdriver to remove the snap-ring, then the L-shape ring. The L-shape ring will remain around the shaft.
2. Remove the clutch spring compressor tool and L-shape ring from the shaft which is still attached to the adjuster screw. Disassemble the clutch spring compressor tool and the L-shape ring will fall out. Remove the clutch spring from the compression plate. Set the clutch spring aside.
5. With the shaft still attached to the adjuster screw, hold the shaft and pull out the compression plate. (The pack of rings may come out together as a unit due to the oil’s suction between the plates. If not, use picks or a small diameter telescopic magnet.) Remove the spring plate (grenade) from the center of the plates and insert the 3 replacement plates in its place (1 steel-1 friction-1 steel). (These 3 replacement plates have been soaking in primary oil, so wipe them off.) The pattern is F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S – F – S - F.
6. Reattach the clutch spring compressor tool and shaft onto the pressure plate.
7. Hold the clutch diaphragm spring in place (it can still come out) along with the L-shape ring and snap-ring around the shaft while installing the clutch spring compressor tool onto the shaft. Compress the spring and install the L-shape ring and snap-ring.
8. Remove the clutch spring compressor tool and shaft from the adjuster screw.

Replace the THROW OUT BEARING (Optional):
This can be done now or at any time the clutch ramp assembly has been removed.
1. Remove the snap ring which holds the release plate (holder/retainer) in place.
2. Remove the release plate.
3. Remove the retaining ring/circlip which holds the threaded adjuster screw in place.
4. Remove the old stock throw out bearing from the release plate by PRESSING it out. (See notes below.)
5. The new FAG 7200B angular throw out bearing goes into the release plate with the wide-OUTER race going in first. The threaded adjuster screw goes in with the mushroom end on the back side of where you push the bearing into. This makes the base (mushroom) end with a lip to be in contact with the wide-INNER race. The bearing must be PRESS-FIT into position inside the release plate. (See note below.)

Once the adjuster screw is inserted through the bearing with the threads facing out of the other side of the release plate, install the small retaining/circlip that holds the adjuster screw in place.

The wide-outer and the narrow-inner races are on the same side. (This is the numbers side.)
The narrow-outer and the wide-inner are on the same side. (This side has no numbers.)

Note:
• To PRESS OUT the old throw out bearing from the release plate, you will need an 18mm socket and a 32mm socket with two small boards and a bench vice.
• To PRESS IN the new bearing into the release plate, will need only the 32mm socket and two small boards with a bench vice. Be careful not to press too far. You can press most of the way and then tap the final distance with a soft hammer and the 32mm socket.

Install the PRIMARY COVER:
1. Clean off the primary cover gasket area.
2. Make sure the two primary cover alignment dowels are still in place. Pay attention to the chain adjuster and gasket bottom while installing the primary cover.
3. Using the cardboard template, install all of the primary screws by hand and snug them into the primary cover. Now, go back and one-at-a-time, remove each one and apply Blue Loctite and reinstall it by hand again. Snug each one up IN PROPER ORDER with a ratchet wrench. Finally, torque each on IN PROPER ORDER to 110 in-lbs.
4. Install a new rubber seal on the gear shift lever shaft and torque the pinch bolt to 20 ft-lbs.

Adjusting the CLUTCH:
1. Check to make sure the clutch cable is completely collapsed and the clutch lever is all the way out. Attach the cable holder to the end of the cable and to the clutch ramp assembly. Rotate the clutch ramp assembly mechanism upright and fit it into the slot in the clutch adjuster screw. Replace the adjuster nut by sliding it onto a long flat screwdriver and inserting the screwdriver into the adjuster screw to hold it still while screwing the adjuster nut onto it. Once the adjuster locknut is all the way in its slot in the clutch ramp assembly and can’t move, turn the adjuster screw CCW to extend it outward against the adjuster plate.
2. With the flat blade screwdriver, turn the adjuster screw CCW (back it out) until it barely touches and then turn it CW (back in) one-quarter turn. Do this a few times to be sure.
3. Replace the adjuster locking piece with its spring. If the “flats” don’t line up exactly, err to the “loose” side (CW) to allow for heat expansion.

Install the DERBY COVER:
Note – You may want to add the primary oil now. I add mine later as you will see below.
1. Install a new O-ring on the primary cover before replacing the Derby Cover. Install each screw by hand and snug up lightly with a socket wrench. Now, go back and one-at-a-time, remove each one and apply Blue Loctite and reinstall by hand. Snug each one up in a “Star-Pattern” in the same pattern with a T27 bit-driver and socket wrench. Finally, torque them in the same pattern to 90-105 in-lbs. or 11 Nm.


Adjusting the CLUTCH CABLE:
1. When finished adjusting the clutch plate, tighten the clutch cables so there is 3mm of play in the lever with the handlebar at center. (Use a nickel in the gap at the lever’s tightest point when moving the handlebar.)
2. Tighten the jam nut.
3. Replace the boot and the two zip-ties.
4. Replace the two cable clamps.


Adjusting the PRIMARY CHAIN:
1. Adjust the primary chain tension (3/8” – 1/2” gap cold.) Use a 1/2” open end wrench as a reference tool. Recheck after tightening the lock nut.
2. Fill the primary oil through the primary chain inspection plate with one quart (32 oz.) of oil.
3. Replace the primary chain inspection plate with new gasket and new O-rings. Torque to 6.0 Nm.
4. Hold the bolt in position and tighten the locknut. Recheck the chain tension.
5. Reinstall the foot peg bracket bolts with anti-seize. Torque to 50 ft-lbs.
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Old 6th September 2019
rocketmangb's Avatar
rocketmangb rocketmangb is offline
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Default

Very detailed !
Good Job !
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2006 Sportster XL1250C
Hammer Sledge Heads 1.98X1.61 Valves
Hammer 600 Cams
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Daytona Twin Tec TC88A,Rico Scarecrow Map
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Patriot Defender Pipe
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