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  #1  
Old 22nd May 2022
Len PA Len PA is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLCH
Sportster/Buell Year: 1971
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Default Scorpion battery

Anyone using an AGM Scorpion battery from Battery Stuff for their electric start bikes? Mine is a 71 XLCH now electric start,original owner. I bought my first one from them in 2014 and it lasted 5 me years. Since then about one per year. This last one ,still under warranty, quit on me yesterday after an 80 mile ride.It would not start when I got home and it was very slow to turn over to begin the ride( that should have my clue). I charged it over nite, it started and my cycle electric generator showed 13.9-14.0 volts @2500rpm. I will be taking it tomorrow to my local alternator/starter motor rebuild shop for a load test. I can get a free replacement tomorrow, but I am doubting the quality of these chinese batteries and thinking or returning to the lead acid battery.
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  #2  
Old 23rd May 2022
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
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Take a look at these:
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co...Spec-Sheet.pdf

For my 1994, I last bought an Deka EXT16 from Lowes - Less than $100 on sale.
They have lasted me typically 4-5 years each over the past 2 purchases.

I'm not sure which battery type you're running, but here's a link:
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=deka+battery


Have you run an electrical leak test on the bike? Is it drawing power even when the key is off?

With the KEY OFF - Remove the GROUND wire from the battery. Set your meter to 20v, put the RED lead on the battery GROUND cable & the BLACK lead on the Negative Battey Terminal. Is there any voltage reading?

If so, change your meter setting to current (amps) - shoud use 10amp setting just to be careful. Apply the leads again in the same way. What amount of current is being pulled? It the reading is very small, try reducing the meter setting to 2 amps or (carefully) to 1 amp and check the amount of current draw again.

Check voltage 1st - then check for high current - then check for low current.


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  #3  
Old 23rd May 2022
1Scooter 1Scooter is offline
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I have has sh*t for luck with batteries for my 77 XLH. Then I got smart. Looking at my 07 Dyna battery . . . hmmmm, 320 cca, lighter in weight and smaller. Only real difference is the + and - terminals are reversed. No problem, the + cable and braided ground strap fit. Got an AMG battery for a Dyna/Softail from Battery's Plus for $100 and hooked it up. Since it's much smaller than the OEM size, I used dense foam insulation left over from what I put on my hose outside water spigots to keep from freezing. So far, 3 years and starts up INSTANTLY!
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  #4  
Old 23rd May 2022
Len PA Len PA is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Take a look at these:
https://www.eastpennmanufacturing.co...Spec-Sheet.pdf

For my 1994, I last bought an Deka EXT16 from Lowes - Less than $100 on sale.
They have lasted me typically 4-5 years each over the past 2 purchases.

I'm not sure which battery type you're running, but here's a link:
https://www.lowes.com/search?searchTerm=deka+battery


Have you run an electrical leak test on the bike? Is it drawing power even when the key is off?

With the KEY OFF - Remove the GROUND wire from the battery. Set your meter to 20v, put the RED lead on the battery GROUND cable & the BLACK lead on the Negative Battey Terminal. Is there any voltage reading?

If so, change your meter setting to current (amps) - shoud use 10amp setting just to be careful. Apply the leads again in the same way. What amount of current is being pulled? It the reading is very small, try reducing the meter setting to 2 amps or (carefully) to 1 amp and check the amount of current draw again.

Check voltage 1st - then check for high current - then check for low current.


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Thanks IXL2Relax, I did get a 13.12 volts reading on the volt test and .65 on the .20m scale for the current test. I am guessing I've had this problem for the past several years that I've been replacing batteries. Where do I begin to look for the leak besides trucking it to my indy shop?
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  #5  
Old 23rd May 2022
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This process is tedious, requires dismantling some parts, and may take a couple of days to complete, but it is thorough, and is much more accurate than simple amps/current flow testing [a wire with some broken strands can still pass current but may not carry voltage]...

Ironhead Voltage Drop Testing
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1608465
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  #6  
Old 23rd May 2022
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I have no problem with Mick's suggestion.

You did mention CE Generator & Electric Start.

So, my thought was - If the keyswitch is off (and truly not failing - not shorting), then the wiring downstream of the keyswitch is likely not the issue.

I would think in terms of the wiring of the charging system.
Or - With electric start, you have wiring directly from the battery to the starter solenoid.

If you have a point where you can disconnect those circuits individually, while doing the current test, you may find which one is causing the leaking, if it stops when you disconnect one of those - or, you may eliminate those as the issue if the current still flows with those disconnected.

I'm not an Ironhead guy - so I'll just let those familiar with your bike follow up on this...

Good Luck...

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  #7  
Old 23rd May 2022
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is online now
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Sportster/Buell Model: xlch
Sportster/Buell Year: 1971
Sportster/Buell Model #2: xlh
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1974
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Other Motorcycle Year: 2011
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I too would recommend the Deka brand. It has served me well. The Deka ETX16 is what I upgraded to a few years ago on my '74 XLH. Haven't looked back.

http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...3&postcount=20

re: the parasite drain you have & how to find it

Sorta depends on how you have your '71 XLCH rewired to an XLH, but it will likely come down to a divide and conquer strategy, which IXL2Relax has already provided directions on.

To add to IXL2Relax's directions, some obvious locations where I might consider dividing / splitting my wiring. Basically, with key off, disconnect & test the wires at the:
  • BAT + connection at the Voltage Regulator
  • any circuit breakers installed before the key switch
  • key switch
  • solenoid switch
Use your judgement. Inserting an ammeter at these locations, should help you locate the fault (aka current flowing when it shouldn't).
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