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  #51  
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That's what's confusing me.
Bikes usually run better when you pull and clean the carb.
Makes me wonder if something is going wrong in that.
Pushing the enrichener all the way in reduces gas mixture.
Just seems to still lean toward the mixture screw or air leak to me.
But I could be wrong.
Between sportsterdoc, IXL2Relax and rocketmangb, these guys know just about everything about a CV.
As IXL2Relax mentioned, it comes down to a systematic diagnostic approach.
In order......
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  #52  
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Matt Black Matt Black is offline
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I pulled the carb off again. I wanted to clean the enrichener circuit since I didn't do that last time and I also pulled the mixture screw o ring to take a look. Something kind of weird, the mixture screw washer looks corroded. not sure what would have caused that. I thought it was just dirty when I pulled it earlier. The o ring doesn't look that great either. I'm not sure either one is bad enough to affect anything though.


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  #53  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Black View Post
I checked it with a plastic protractor we had from back when my kids were in grade school. The float seam was level at just under 20deg (by eyeballing through the protractor) and the height was at the top of the range, 0.450 or so measured with the depth gauge on my dial caliper.
Well done. The description in post 42 seemed to be an overly lean condition. If correct, it is either not getting enough fuel or too much air.

Some on this forum will cringe, but will it start with ether applied (one shot into carb throat while cranking)?

With float level good, adequate flow through float valve, jets clear, passages clear, then look for extra air as IXL2Relax and HippySmack have already suggested.

If the carb was inserted dry into the rubber intake, there can easily be a vacuum leak. Best to wet, first.

As for the o-rings, if in doubt, new may be helpful:

https://cv-performance.com/carbureto...-cv-carburetor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
Well done. The description in post 42 seemed to be an overly lean condition.
With float level good, adequate flow through float valve, jets clear, passages clear, then look for extra air as IXL2Relax and HippySmack have already suggested.

If the carb was inserted dry into the rubber intake, there can easily be a vacuum leak. Best to wet, first.

As for the o-rings, if in doubt new may be helpful:

https://cv-performance.com/carbureto...-cv-carburetor
I have been wiping a film of motor oil around the inside of the rubber piece on the intake when pushing the carb on. Hopefully that's good enough. I think it is. The carb made a popping noise like a cork as I pulled it off this afternoon so I think at least that side is a good seal. I'm not sure how to check for intake leaks if I can't keep it running.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt Black View Post
Yes, the very first time when I replaced the intake seals. Since then I've just been pulling the carb and sticking it back on there without messing with the intake.
The most common air leak is between the carb & the manifold - It's critically important to have very good alignment there so the carb is not cocked at an angle into the rubber intake seal...

When you tighten down the carb bracket to the heads (breather bolts), you need to be certain that you are not skewing the angle... The rear of the carb venturi needs to slip easily into the seal as perfectly staight as possible...

============

That washer & o-ring don't look gunked up enough to create this problem - Just put it on your list of things to get in the near future...

============

There's something still not quite right - Between the Idle Port hole and the Transfer Ports, you should always have enough fuel to start the bike with the enrichener pulled out, unless the bowl is dry from sitting (no fuel - flick the throttle a couple strokes) or the bike is already warm (no enrichener needed)...


============

Since it fires up, you must have some type of spark - But the plugs need to be checked... And I would also check to see if the spark you are getting is strong...

The accelerator pump is squirting, so there must be some fuel in the bowl - but you don't want to flood the carb/cylinder with raw fuel...

Your carb should have an overflow tube in the float bowl - and it should have a drain screw on the bottom of the bowl and a drain hose there too - Open the drain on the float bowl and then open your Golan petcock to check the flow into the bowl...

Then, while it's running fuel, close the drain screw and see if the bowl overflows (out the same hose)... It shouldn't, but this will check that the bowl valve is operating in position...

(BTW, did you replace the bowl valve? If so, did you get the valve on the tang correctly?)

============

The air cleaner may affect the AFR being rich or lean (depending on how restrictive it is and whether you setup the carb with the A/C on or off) but it should not prevent the bike from running (whether on or off)...


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Best of my recollection, that's actually suppose to be an O-ring.


Yours doesn't look so good to me.
Hopefully a new one will get er running.
When you install or adjust it, turn it in til it lightly seats without any extra force and stop.
An EZjust is nice to work with (I have one also) but your fingers will want to turn it harder than need be to seat.
At least I've noticed that with mine.
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