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Sportster Motorcycle Engine Conversions Advice, questions, and tips for 1200, 1250, 1340, 1450 etc... for Sportster and Buell motorcycle engine conversions

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conversion, crank, gearchange, rebuild, seized

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  #131  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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may need to weigh the cost of having it fixed with the cost of a new crank after looking at the rods. that forked rod is FUBAR looks to have been grinding on the inner rod VERY heavily..
From the looks of it. The wheels and the shafts are good, but the rods , bearings,and the pin will need replaced. That along with their labor to assemble and balance will cost a good bit. Many different ways to look at it.
That is why when mine blow a piston out the tail pipe I decided to stroke it.
The rods were bent, crank had to be repaired, and the jugs were scarred from the wrist pin eating it up from no piston. After figuring the cost of stock parts. I figured the cost to make it a stroker, and just went nuts from there ...

You dont just jump in the pool before testing the water..
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  #132  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNSaNeSHaNe View Post
may need to weigh the cost of having it fixed with the cost of a new crank after looking at the rods. that forked rod is FUBAR looks to have been grinding on the inner rod VERY heavily..
From the looks of it. The wheels and the shafts are good, but the rods , bearings,and the pin will need replaced. That along with their labor to assemble and balance will cost a good bit. Many different ways to look at it.
That is why when mine blow a piston out the tail pipe I decided to stroke it.
The rods were bent, crank had to be repaired, and the jugs were scarred from the wrist pin eating it up from no piston. After figuring the cost of stock parts. I figured the cost to make it a stroker, and just went nuts from there ...

You dont just jump in the pool before testing the water..

Yes will definitely be asking questions on rebuild vs new if cost is close. The best being NO vibration as much as possible with quick revs since they can lighten it, plus mass or heavier for cruising and TQ


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  #133  
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Any one have input on using an 08 stator for more current to drive heated clothes ? Any fuse issues ? Or just the fuse that is used for the heated gear from battery terminals ?

Most likely would get the 08 voltage regulator also and the 34T engine sprocket and rotor assembly also. And just wire the output of the regulator to the 2000 wires.

if plugs don't match, then just splice output from 08 regulator to the current wiring of the 2000 wiring.

Heard might need a new bracket also for mounting the regulator. If so, and suggestions, or links ?

Haven't seen an 08 frame/regulator , so not sure the mounting.

Getting close to sending off my cases. Saving a lil more $ now, so hopefully cases and all will be balanced and new carrillo rods. Will also send pistons, and spiroclips so Dark Horse can get accurate weight for new rebuilt crank.

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  #134  
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I’d definitely check into upping the capacity. Doesn’t take much to over power 22 amps. What does the ‘08 give you, 30amps?
Both my Rubbermounts run C.E 38 amp three phase, my 2000 will get upgraded soon.
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  #135  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
I’d definitely check into upping the capacity. Doesn’t take much to over power 22 amps. What does the ‘08 give you, 30amps?
Both my Rubbermounts run C.E 38 amp three phase, my 2000 will get upgraded soon.
I don't know if 08 stator gives 30 Amps. Don't have a manual. But should be more than the 2000, since way more electronics on an 08.

Maybe I should go and try and find the page I looked up and found before long ago. There was an option to choose bike, and 2000 wasn't a very good option for both pants, jacket, gloves, and boot liners.

Could only choose the amount of garments system could heat.

Never made bookmark, but am now for everything this build so don't lose anything in the future.

I am going to assume since more electronics on the 08, that it is possible that it could keep up with all the heated gear.

But can't make assumptions... at least for the heated gear manufacturer at the times recomenddationss for bike year.

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The factory 2000 system only puts out 22 amp. and if I remember correctly the 07^ put out 27 amps.
You'll have to check that , but if your just looking to upgrade to a late model system to gain a few amps, you may want to just bite the bullet and go for after market.

I have put a spikes 35 amp 3 phase system on a few but its pricy. like $600
I believe that Cycle Electric also makes a 3 phase system .
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  #137  
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My 2013 XL1200C owner's manual shows the charging system as:

Single-phase, 30 A system
(357 W @ 13.5 V, 2000 rpm,
405 W max power @ 13.5 V)

at 2000 rpms that would be a little over 26 amps.
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  #138  
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Yes, that 30 amp system used for the F.I. Bikes was formerly the “police charging system”, for the earlier Police Sportsters, and while 30 amp is way better than 22, going to a three phase puts you way farther ahead. For example that 22amp and 30 amp set ups won’t give you full power until right around 3,500 r.p.m.’s. My 38 amp three phase set ups give me full power around 12-1500 r.p.m. Not only that the power pulses are three per revolution as opposed to a single one, much easier on the battery.
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Thanks everyone for the stator amperage info




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