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  #11  
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Key getting hot is definitely a problem, probably a short circuit.

The IronHeads use circuit breakers rather than fuses. They are usually under the seat.
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  #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMick View Post
Key getting hot is definitely a problem, probably a short circuit.

The IronHeads use circuit breakers rather than fuses. They are usually under the seat.
Or high load or poor conductivity on the keyed switch contacts.

How much voltage drop is across the switch? For example, if line side voltage is 12.7 is 12.7 on the load side?
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Thanks. If you have time to weigh in before the turkey.....
For something like this, would the short be likely in the lights or horn or something coming through the charging system? I thought about un attaching all the lights and horn and trying again but would the short be more likely in the charging system?
Everything runs through the Thunderheat box (he circuit breaker there shut it off) and I have a 20 amp breaker going from the voltage regulator)generator to the battery.... Copper post of the breaker on the battery side (that right?). I wondered about putting another cube style relay by the ignition and the Thunderheat box. I have one.

Right now I have a black 12 guage wire from the Thunderheat box running to the battery as per instructions, the voltage regulator running to it and the stator off the starter running to it off the top post.

To test the voltage at they switch, would I just test each wire on my switch while turning over the engine?

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This is the ignition wiring. Red to B and red and black to G.

I have most of the grounds together on a bolt by my horn. They are connected temporarily and touching metal but not tight as I'm missing the nut there and digging around for a replacement.

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Copper side of CB is input, silver side is out I believe. Wire from regulator to battery is what charges battery so current is going to the battery +ve. I''d have that CB the other way around - copper post furthest from battery. No expert but that's how I'd do it.
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Thanks for catching that. It sounds right. I've tightened down all the grounds and wrapped all my connections. It's raining here so will have to wait a bit to go test it but what would be the fastest way to nail down the high voltage going to my key switch if it wasn't one of these grounds? Everything is routed through the Thunderheat box except for the line from the voltage regulator to the battery and the starter solenoid to the battery.

In this setup I'm wondering if I should still put a cube relay or some extra circuit breakers on there somewhere.

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Also there is one black 12 guage wire going from the Thunderheat box to the positive side of the battery terminal.

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Looking at the schematic (ConnectorJ5/Pin14&15), the Keyswitch should simply have two wires - both connected to the Thunderheart - no other wires are connected to the Keyswitch according to the schematic... Have you made sure that's the case? Those two wires are listed at 12awg - Be sure you used 12 gauge wire to handle the current load...

Typically, the solenoid (on the starter) will pull up to 20Amps at it's maximum surge level (briefly) - The Thunderheart schematic does not show a 'Starter Relay' in that circuit (Connector J5/Pin12 to Starter/Solenoid). This wire is also listed as 12awg so double check to be sure you used 12 or better gauge wire at Pin12. It wouldn't hurt to put a Starter Relay (which only pulls about 0.2amps) in that circuit. Although it is something extra to fail, it would reduce the current load thru the Thunderheart...

The Thunderheart acts as a power control unit & ECM - The wiring to the various switches and sensors are listed as 18awg (except as noted above)- so those are lower level current circuits & should not be overheating in any way...

The main feed of power to the Thunderheart is listed as using 12awg wire - so it looks like you followed that spec...

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Thank you.

They are all 12 gauge. I'll put a relay in between the solenoid and the unit on the green wire.

I also think I did have the circuit breaker reversed (copper on battery side) on the line going from the regulator to the battery so will put the copper on the regulator side as soon as the rain stops.

If I connect the mulitmeter to the ignition switch and a ground, and press the starter button, what Amps would signal an overload?

I was also going to swap out the switch with a new marine grade hot top switch.
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/370...gnition-switch

There's a neutral wore on the rear harness (pin 10). Any idea what that would be for? I don't think I have anything that would use it.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roane View Post
... I also think I did have the circuit breaker reversed ...
I'm not expert in the electricity, but I have heard, I believe reliably, that circuit breakers work equally well when installed reversed.
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