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  #11  
Old 28th October 2019
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There are 3 studs you will have to pull out of the cases to remove the mount. The mount will not usually slide off the studs.

Also search for my post regarding the tightening sequence for the motor mounts to remove the stress from the rear mount.

Top mount shimming and tightening last
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  #12  
Old 28th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post

From the photo, it might be possible to reinforce that area with a piece of angle iron with short spacers behind it and longer bolts.
I went to sleep with this idea last night. I'll make sure the rest of it is ok, but I might try this as a temporary fix.
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  #13  
Old 28th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsandidge View Post
I went to sleep with this idea last night. I'll make sure the rest of it is ok, but I might try this as a temporary fix.
This (mock-up from scraps) is what I was visualizing. The spacers are for the counterbore in the mount holes and to clear the radius of the bracket. The longer bolts are to make up for the increased thickness of angle and spacer.


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  #14  
Old 28th October 2019
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http://www.pingelonline.com/harley-d...sportsters.asp

mine has been cracked since 1975 after taking the front end off a 1972 chevy impala.
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  #15  
Old 28th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
http://www.pingelonline.com/harley-d...sportsters.asp

mine has been cracked since 1975 after taking the front end off a 1972 chevy impala.
Is yours cracked all the way across like mine? I guess it doesn't cause any problems for you since you've run it that long.
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  #16  
Old 28th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post
This (mock-up from scraps) is what I was visualizing. The spacers are for the counterbore in the mount holes and to clear the radius of the bracket. The longer bolts are to make up for the increased thickness of angle and spacer.


Thanks. That is exactly what I was visualizing. I just cut my angle iron. I'll give it a try this weekend.

Last edited by jsandidge; 28th October 2019 at 19:41.. Reason: add'l info
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  #17  
Old 28th October 2019
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16203-67 There are 17 of them on eBay most less than $100 a few less than $50.

It's not worth it to patch it, the mounts don't break if the motor is installed correctly.
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Old 28th October 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
16203-67 There are 17 of them on eBay most less than $100 a few less than $50.

It's not worth it to patch it, the mounts don't break if the motor is installed correctly.
I do plan on fixing it correctly, but I don't want to be splitting cases right now. I will go through the whole motor at some point, so it will get a new mount then.
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Old 28th October 2019
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I am confused...Why does the engine case need to be split to remove a motor mount??? I've looked at pics on eBay of them, they all look like bolt-ons...

Is that just for 1981 models??? Would I have to remove my engine and split the cases to remove my 1983 rear motor mount???

I originally read this thread to look at where the crack is and see if mine might also be cracked. It is 36 years old after all. But I'm not sure from the pic where the crack is - there is a curved dark line where there seems to be a boss, is that it???

I can't even see my rear mount, there is so much stuff covering it. Is that pic from underneath???
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  #20  
Old 28th October 2019
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^^^^ it's between the 2 case halves. no room to get it out.
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