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  #1  
Old 4 Days Ago
mickey t's Avatar
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Default Leakdown test

Ok did leakdown test..got a 5/8 18 thread bolt to Put timing hole window to go against the flywheel to keep it from moving...reads 80% leakage front n 85 rear...but I dont hear air escaping? Would I or is it internal? Not sure how accurate this is but. Trying to trim the video so I can post it

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I think you are reading it backards. 80% hold, 20% leakage. A little much, but operable.....
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I've found the best way to do the leak down test is too remove the pushrods.all valves will be closed tight.the flywheel moving won't be able to open them.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
I've found the best way to do the leak down test is too remove the pushrods.all valves will be closed tight.the flywheel moving won't be able to open them.
+1.
This is how I do mine. I do not like the lock the flywheel technique.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMCSSeabee View Post
I think you are reading it backards. 80% hold, 20% leakage. A little much, but operable.....
I wish but from the gauge it looks like in not...it has the Mark's on it like food moderate and poor on gauge tha/ reads cylinder leakage...mine is in the red,poor. Which is upsetting because I got it kicked over 5 times...with 11 kicks involved by changing startup technique...took for a run down the street in the rain only to 2nd gear even w the bad clutch n thought I turned the corner w this problem

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I have a video but can't figure out how to trim it n post it...I did one not too long g ago by luck...lol

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Just upload it to YouTube and copy the link.
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If the pisons are moving down in the bore you may nor get a correct reading.

IF you have the piston at TDC of the cylinder your testing it does not take much to stop it from moving. If it's not at TDC it can be a problem.

This is why I suggested you ask someone else who has done one before to help you.

If the engine is leaking air you WILL hear it. But you need to do this in a very quiet area. Often best done at night.

I set the regulator on my compressor to 100 PSI. Some people use 80 PSI. Don't go above 100 PSI in any case.

Take a little time for the gauge to settle when you calibrate it. Try to get as close to zero as you can.

Anything less than 10 is ok. At 20 it's time to do some work.

You might not even be able to hear it if the sealing is really really good.

technically, this test too should be done with a warm engine. But a cold one will tell you if it's really sad.
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Interesting aside here.

people were talking about how hot an engine had to be to do a compression test. I figure "Operating temperature" of course. I do a number od teadings on my race engine before and after I start it at a meeting. If it's too cold I put a heat gun on it to get the temp up to 75 degrees F. It is VERY hard to start below that.

Today, ambient temp 85 F. I started my 74 Ironhead and let it idle for 3 minutes. Took it for 100 yard ride. Let it idle for 5 minutes.

rear cylinder head temp was 245 degrees.

Now that has nothing to do with the oil temperature which is what we all really worry about. But it is what it is.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferrous Head View Post
If the pisons are moving down in the bore you may nor get a correct reading.

IF you have the piston at TDC of the cylinder your testing it does not take much to stop it from moving. If it's not at TDC it can be a problem.

This is why I suggested you ask someone else who has done one before to help you.

If the engine is leaking air you WILL hear it. But you need to do this in a very quiet area. Often best done at night.

I set the regulator on my compressor to 100 PSI. Some people use 80 PSI. Don't go above 100 PSI in any case.

Take a little time for the gauge to settle when you calibrate it. Try to get as close to zero as you can.

Anything less than 10 is ok. At 20 it's time to do some work.

You might not even be able to hear it if the sealing is really really good.

technically, this test too should be done with a warm engine. But a cold one will tell you if it's really sad.
Pistons are at tdc..stopped the flywheel from moving by running a bolt through the timing hole, carefully...enough for it to touch so it doesn't move

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