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  #21  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: xlch
Sportster/Buell Year: 1964
Sportster/Buell Model #2: XLCH IR EFI
Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1971
Other Motorcycle Model: BMW K1200RS
Other Motorcycle Year: 2001
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Advice?? Next step, clutch in, snick into gear, off into sunset...
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  #22  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Iron Mike Iron Mike is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: xlch
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 1971
Other Motorcycle Model: BMW K1200RS
Other Motorcycle Year: 2001
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Sorry couldn't resist.

Your getting power to the secondary side of your start button somewhere. or button is "stuck". Internal wiring in the bars? Damaged connecter in the bucket, allowing terminals to touch? Bare wires. if you were recently in the bucket, more than likely problem lies in the bar/bucket area.
Or stuck starter relay.
Just throwing out guesses for you.
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  #23  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Roane Roane is offline
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So, I found the culprit, culprits. The wires were intermittently connecting at the horn and starter buttons. Now I have a new problem though. I clipped them, tinned them and put them in these billet button clamps. I did the same for my turn signals.
https://www.denniskirk.com/v-factor/...iABEgLOxvD_BwE

The turn signals are constant on now (I guess I need an intermediate button of some type.) the horn doesn’t work at all And, after initially working, the starter button does nothing but the bike turns on every time I turn the key. I wired everything exactly the same and made sure wires were not touching any metal after an initial short when it contacted with my handlebars.

I should get a different button/switch set but wondering if anyone might know how I f-Ed all this up do totally first and how to get the starter button working again. It’s still wired through a run/off switch btw.

Also, if anyone has suggestions on a good switch/button housing that isn’t too bulky, would love to get this handled too. My old housings were connected to the master cylinder and the clutch housing but my bars are shorter now and I replaced the clutch housing with a hydrolic.
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  #24  
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As tight as the clearance is between those switches and the handlebear, I'm not surprised that you might have shorted or broken wires...

Did you pull them off the bars and test them as standalone switches?

Do you have a meter? Did you meter out the connections to see if they were shorted?

Just making the ends of the wires bare & manually shorting them together should be equivalent to pressing a switch --- Did you try to see if the various functions (horn, TS, Starter Relay) would activate when simply touching the wires together?


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  #25  
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The starter worked off the bars. The rest didn’t. Turn signals just on and the horn not working.


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  #26  
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And I did think about riding into the sunset...
I don’t think it’s in the bucket bc I went through all those wires and checked connections and re-shrink tubed them. It’s possible the wires in the buttons are hitting metal still. The weird thing was, when I took the wires back out of the starter button, I still hit power. Maybe it’s the old “run/off button”


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  #27  
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IMG_4749.jpg

On a related note, any idea the bore size of this master cylinder (is OEM for my bike I think... 1977 sporty) but it’s running to dual calipers (no idea the number of pistons). They look like they might be V-Twin too.
https://www.jpcycles.com/product/241...left-and-right

Also, when switching it out, what size could I do safely.

Apologies for the multiple posts.


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