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  #1  
Old 9th March 2015
KNuckleheadSteve KNuckleheadSteve is offline
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Default Mikuni/Solex Dual Throat Tuning Instructions

Does anyone know where I can get tuning instructions for a Mikuni/Solex Dual Throat carb? I'm probably gonna need a few parts too. Where can ya get em?
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Old 9th March 2015
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Havent seen that since the 1970`s along with the Weber . Have no Idea for parts or tuning on a 45 year old carb.
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Old 9th March 2015
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member ericfreeman might know. he run's one on his ironhead,maybe both of them.if he see's this,he should reply.
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  #4  
Old 10th March 2015
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ericfreeman ericfreeman is offline
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I'm running 2 Mikuni-Solexes, one on my '78 and another on my '77. I also have a spare on hand in case another old Ironhead comes sniffing around my garage! Bought my first Mikuni-Solex 36PHH from Jerry Branch himself back in 1977 for my new XLCH. Absolutely fell in love with the carb and threw the OEM Keihin in the trash. Simple to tune, reliable, very fuel efficient and awesome throttle response. Only problem was for guys with long legs since the carbs stick out a ways.

You'll need a support for the carb since it sticks out. I use some 1/8" x 5/8" stainless flat bar that bent into an 'L' shape. It bolts to the bottom front mounting bolt between the carb and the manifold and has the short leg going to the stud on the front cylinder intake tappet guide. You'll need to add a little twist to the short leg to get things lined up. A bit of trial and error is required for a good fit.

You can source idle jets, main and air jets, accelerator pump parts from Wolf Creek Racing. These parts are common across lines for the larger Mikuni-Solex auto carbs used by lots of racers. Top cover gaskets you'll have to make or buy a repair kit from a fellow in Italy (http://www.ebay.com/itm/261349017331...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT). Solex carbs were used on lots of small European cars back in the day and the kit on Ebay does have gaskets that match (I bought a kit to verify this).

One thing you'll notice if your carb is still original as set up by Jerry Branch is that the main jet (the small jet on the bottom of the emulsion tube) was machined down and had a small brass extension tube fitted to it. Apparently, there was a problem with running the float bowl low on gas and the extension tube allowed for drawing gas from the very bottom. I've run standard jets and didn't notice any problem during normal running.

Typical idle/pilot jets would be anywhere from 45-55. I find that 52-55 gives good performance without any carb coughing from being slightly lean. Remember, you'll be running on the idle jet most of the time when just cruising as these carbs are amazingly efficient. I average 50-55 mpg on my Ironheads.

Set the two mixture screws at 1-1/2 turns out from a lightly seated position for initial tuning. I've found that due to the shape of the intake manifold, the rear carb barrel actually feeds the front cylinder, vice-versa for the front carb barrel. I know it sounds strange but when you play with the mixture screws you'll notice the opposite cylinder is affected. At least that's how it works on my two Ironheads.

Main jets were originally 135's with the air correctors (on top of the emulsion tube) usually 180's. If you have the brass extension tubes on your main jets, they should have the jet size etched on the side. Turning down the jets to fit the extension tubes erased the OEM sizing on the side of the main jets.

Nice thing with the M-S carbs is you can easily change jets through the small cover on top: no need to drop float bowls or other nonsense.

Best air filter is the K&N which is still available. I tend to like the Ramflo filters from Australia but they don't make one for the M-S 36PHH carb. However, I found that if you buy the Ramflo for a Weber 40DCOE, the filter/support and cover will fit the K&N baseplate once you cut off the screw support on the base plate. I can send you pics if you need more info.

Concerning throttle cables, I run slightly longer cables that go between the cylinders for a clean run to the linkage on the carb. I use only teflon lined cables since they're subject to heat between the barrels and also use some split tubing to further insulate the cables where they get closest to the hot barrels.

When you go to start a cold engine, the enrichener is that small round part on the top of the cover with a hole for mounting a cable or small knob. Fully enriched is with the lever pushed forward, or clockwise. Give the throttle a twist or two and then leave it alone. When the engine starts it will sound like it has an air leak but that's just the enrichener working. The enrichener has two 'on' positions with the middle position providing less fuel/air. I usually only keep the enrichener on until I'm up to speed on the road but sometimes the bike runs smoother with a little enrichener on until the carb warms up.

Not much else I can think of right now. Be aware that the fuel inlet needle/seat is a special part for gravity feed situations and the needle/seats sold by Wolf Creek won't work. If you need a replacement needle/seat, you'll have to search Ebay for a 3.5 needle/seat. Last one I got came from Europe.

Hope this helps.

Cheers, Eric
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Last edited by ericfreeman; 10th March 2015 at 04:41..
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  #5  
Old 10th March 2015
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They look fn awesome!! But god its got to be a bear to adjust and rebuild
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Old 10th March 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue View Post
They look fn awesome!! But god its got to be a bear to adjust and rebuild
Not at all!! I've rebuilt the four I purchased used and other than the gaskets for the top cover, everything else was easy to find. Also, once the mixture screws are adjusted for smooth running, that's pretty much it. Changing jets to get the best mixture under load is very easy to do and once you have them sorted you never have to touch anything again. These vintage carbs are fantastic and I'll never use anything else. By the way, I've run stock Keihin, Weber DCOE40 and S&S Super E on my Ironheads before going back to the Mikuni-Solex.

Eric
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  #7  
Old 10th March 2015
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Hmmmm may have to find one for the next ironhead. Im trying to set each one up differently lol
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Old 10th March 2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue View Post
Hmmmm may have to find one for the next ironhead. Im trying to set each one up differently lol
The prices seem to be rising quickly for these rare carbs. Plus, you need the Branch manifold to fit one to the motor. Beware of folks offering to sell only the carb since it's worthless without the manifold (unless you already have one). A fair price for a carb that needs some TLC is anywhere from $75-$150. Lately they seem to around $500 for a rebuilt unit but if you're patient you might find one for less.

Eric
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  #9  
Old 10th March 2015
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There is a dual throat on chopcult right now for $250...Mikuni Solex.
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Old 10th March 2015
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I have two, one is on my bike right now. Once it gets put back together i'll post results and pictures.
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