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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #11  
Old 21st July 2005
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You must remove the spark plugs. And if you get it into 4th/5th gear also it will actually be easy to rotate the rear wheel.

To change gears rotate the wheel until it catches then hold in the clutch and yank on the shifter; repeat for each gear.

It should not be difficut to rotate the wheel.

I would not attempt to find the tightest spot first. It is much more simple to adjust it at whereever it happens to be, then rotate the wheel looking for any spot that is too tight and loosen it there.
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  #12  
Old 21st July 2005
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Racer X ...

I have no idea what year your bike is ... but you don't ever have to take that derby cover off (that large round cover that you stripped the screws out of)

If you have a 04-05, just drain out the tranny fluid after riding the bike. It's got to be hot. Remove the tranny drain plug and get up on it after it stops draining. Move the bike a little right of vertical and then straight up. A little more fluid will drain out. Take your time. Pretty soon, all of the fluid will be removed.

Remove the 2 screws that attach the oval shaped chain inspection cover. Put a plastic funnel in the hole and slowly add exactly 1 Qt of H-D Sport-Trans fluid. Replace the cover ... That's it.

BTW .. the tranny drain plug has a magnet attached to it ... get a rag and remove all the metalic "fuss" from the plug.

As far as adjusting the chain ... you don't remove the derby cover either ... it's done by checking the chain through that same oval shaped cover.

Bottom line ... you don't need to remove the pain in the ass derby cover!
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  #13  
Old 21st July 2005
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By 'loading up' I mean slowly increase the preload on the tensioner. No need to have the rear wheel turning or even on a lift. Only the engine running, as the whine is audible with the bike standing still. Might be an even clearer whine if you GENTLY twist the throttle between each turn of the adjuster. Take it for a testdrive after, & take the 2 adjusting wrenches with you, coz if you got it wrong, it's only a matter of slackening the locknut & making a fine tuning. Saved me a lot of time in the past.
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  #14  
Old 21st July 2005
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Thanks .......
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  #15  
Old 21st July 2005
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Great time-saving tip, hero. Thanks
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  #16  
Old 21st July 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffytune
Dang it SG, you beat me to it....I thought the same thing.
Chuck, that pic looks like beads from the Rio in Vegas or Mardi Gras New Orleans.

C'mon inquiring minds need to know!

No dancin bananas for me TY.

Regards,
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  #17  
Old 23rd July 2005
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Turbota/Hero,

Thanks for the tips! I'm going to give the primary adjustment a shot this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.



Have a great weekend!
Racer X
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  #18  
Old 23rd July 2005
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Well, I went out in the garage today and for the first time, I believe my primary chain is correctly adjusted.

I have been complaining for some time now that my chain never was running the correct tension. I have tried to adjust it per the Service manuals procedure a couple of times now ... But I have had no luck at all. I tried adjusting it on a lift and without a lift. Never could get that "tight spot" in the chain right.

Today I didn't use the lift. Got the motor/trans good and hot. Then I put a piece of wood under the jiffy stand to get the bike more upright. Removed the chain inspection cover and started the bike. Left it in neutral ... With the chain spinning like crazy, I could see it slapping all over the place. Adjusted it tighter while it was spinning. Got it where the top of of chain would bounce just a little (but not slapping around like before).

Be aware that a little oil will come out of the inspection hole since the chain gets lots of oil when it's spinning. Maybe lost about an ounce ... not big deal

Cleaned up the oil mess with spray brake cleaner.

Drove the bike .... It's much quieter without any of that "supercharger gear" sound you get with too tight a chain, but it don't clatter like before.

Perfect ... As far as I'm concerned, this is the only way I will ever adjust it again ... You can actually see whats going on unlike the regular way of adjusting it.

I thought I had adjusted the chain correctly before ... but it was way too loose and sloppy.

If you do it like this, make sure the bike is first driven to get it real hot. That chain will tighten the hotter it gets.

Thanks again to "hero" for the info ....

Ron,

Last edited by Turbota; 23rd July 2005 at 19:42..
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Old 23rd July 2005
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Glad you're happy Ron ! Less time wrenchin' & more time ridin... (& HOW good do those shifts feel eh?? Smooth but solid.)

Be safe
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  #20  
Old 24th July 2005
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Ron was it easy to detect the whine sound that Hero mentioned? Can I adjust it this way going by the sound alone? I just did my 5k service today and that chain adjustment is the last remaining thing on the list to do so it would be cool if doing it this way works.
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