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Sportster Motorcycle Transmission, Clutch, Primary & Secondary Drive Transmission, Clutch and primary or secondary drive problems, advice, and/or how tos.

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  #41  
Old 6th September 2019
60Gunner's Avatar
60Gunner 60Gunner is offline
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I said IF you do a conversion. As in 883/1200.
__________________
05 1200/1250C/Hammer 570 Cams/E1 clutch kit +15% spring
TC88A Gunner's V00D00 map/DCPR7E/Taylor Pro 8mm
S&S Premium Lifters/KhromeWerks HP Plus 3" slip ons
HSR42 25 pilot 2 turns Y8 needle jet 97 needle 2nd groove 170 main
Dragtron II AC K&N filter/VR1 20W50/Spectro 85wt Primary Oil
Max torque 87.7@4400rpm/max hp 86.8@5600rpm




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  #42  
Old 6th September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
I said IF you do a conversion. As in 883/1200.
OOPS! Ok.
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  #43  
Old 16th September 2019
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OOPS. I duplicated a post and had to delete it. My bad.
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  #44  
Old 10th November 2019
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I replaced the throw out bearing in accordance with all of the above directions and pictures. I love it! The clutch lever is easier and smoother. I've put about 2K miles on the new bearing with no problems at all. After I installed it, I wrote up my own version and maybe the following will help someone.

Sportster Clutch Throw Out Bearing Replacement

This can be done now or at any time the clutch ramp assembly has been removed.

With motorcycle sitting level on the Jack:
1. Raise the motorcycle on the jack. (If the primary oil has not been drained, it will spill out unless the bike is level.)
2. Remove the two clamps that hold the clutch cable to the frame. Remove the zip-ties and slide off the boot. Loosen the clutch cable all the way.


Remove the DERBY COVER:
1. Loosen the Derby Cover screws head bit in a “Star-Pattern”. Hold the Derby Cover in place while removing the last screw so the spring holding the clutch adjuster locknut doesn’t fly out.
2. Remove the clutch adjuster locknut. With a thin shaft, flat blade screwdriver, turn the clutch adjuster screw CW until you can manually unscrew the locknut and remove it from the screwdriver shaft.
3. Remove the ramp assembly from the clutch cable end and do not let loose of the clutch cable end until you have removed it from the clutch cable or it will fall into the primary and disappear. Leave the clutch cable attached to the primary cover.


Replace the THROW OUT BEARING:
1. Remove the snap ring which holds the release plate (holder/retainer) in place.
2. Remove the release plate.
3. Remove the retaining ring/circlip which holds the threaded adjuster screw in place in the release plate.
4. Remove the stock radial throw out bearing from the release plate by PRESSING it out. (See notes below.)
5. The new FAG 7200B angular throw out bearing goes into the release plate with the wide-OUTER race going in first. The threaded adjuster screw goes in with the mushroom end on the back side of where you push the bearing into. This makes the base/mushroom end with a lip to be in contact with the wide-INNER race. The bearing must be PRESS-FIT into position inside the release plate. (See notes below.)

Once the adjuster screw is inserted through the bearing with the threads facing out of the other side of the release plate, install the small retaining/circlip that holds the adjuster screw in place.

The wide-outer and the narrow-inner races are on the same side. (This is the numbers side.)*
The narrow-outer and the wide-inner are on the same side.

Note:
• To PRESS OUT the old throw out bearing from the release plate, you will need an 18mm socket and a 32mm socket with two small boards and a bench vice.
• To PRESS IN the new bearing into the release plate you will need only the 32mm socket and two small boards with a bench vice. Be careful not to press too far. You can tap the final distance with a soft hammer and the 32mm socket.

*There are numbers on the stock bearing outer race which are on the opposite side from the new bearing. Disregard these numbers because they will confuse you.
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