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  #1  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Jowniofownio Jowniofownio is offline
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Default Rebuilt and 1200 conversion and now won't idle?

Hello, I have stripped then barrels off and replaced for 1200 barrels. I have built the bike back up and can't get it to idle unless I keep choke out a little bit. I have screwed the idle acre all the way in and it's still a little too low to idle and it cuts out. The 883 engine was stage 1 so has a 180 jet in it which I am told is the correct size. I have had the carb in pieces and diaphragm looks good and cleaned it all out. There is a spark but not the strongest looking spark but not sure how it should be. I have adjusted the point and the ignition timing.

I torqued the barrels down as the manual said but noticed a bit of bubbling on base of barrel so have nipped that up more. Also, not sure the voltage regulator is working as when Erving, the battery is about 12.5v and when not running it's the same??

Any ideas?

Thabks
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  #2  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Jowniofownio Jowniofownio is offline
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Just to add, would it matter that I don't have the air filter fitted? It's just the carb to with no filter?

Thabks
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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IXL2Relax IXL2Relax is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
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Did you upgrade to a 1200 ignition module? Or are you still using the 883 module?

There is a difference in the timing curves built into the ignition module - you should use a 1200 module if you have increased the engine size from 883 to 1200...

Having to run with the choke on, would typically indicate a lean condition - most likely from air leaks at the manifold to the carb...

Do you have the VOES connected and working? That is used to select between the two built-in curves of the module...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 carb and getting the idle right:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...40_carburetors

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Jowniofownio Jowniofownio is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Did you upgrade to a 1200 ignition module? Or are you still using the 883 module?

There is a difference in the timing curves built into the ignition module - you should use a 1200 module if you have increased the engine size from 883 to 1200...

Having to run with the choke on, would typically indicate a lean condition - most likely from air leaks at the manifold to the carb...

Do you have the VOES connected and working? That is used to select between the two built-in curves of the module...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the CV40 carb and getting the idle right:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...40_carburetors

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Hello

The bike has no ignition module. It looks to be the early ironhead ignition with 12v from battery to one side of the coil and then the other side through the point to ground. I have followed a YouTube video to check timing of ignition. I will have a check for air leaks on the manifold but all looks pretty good and new seals there. Should the 1200 work on this ignition?
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Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Sportster/Buell Model: Sportster 883►1200
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jowniofownio View Post
Should the 1200 work on this ignition?
Well, yes - but the bike was originally delivered with an electronic setup to run an ignition module with dual curves that helped idle & cruise timing...

Did you check the timing dynamically or statically? Do you have any idea whether the mechanical weights for advance (located behind the timing plate) were adjusted? I understand there are sets of springs that can alter the timing curve...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Charging System:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...harging_system

I would do the stator voltage tests & also MAKE SURE the voltage regulator is properly grounded...

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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Well, yes - but the bike was originally delivered with an electronic setup to run an ignition module with dual curves that helped idle & cruise timing...

Did you check the timing dynamically or statically? Do you have any idea whether the mechanical weights for advance (located behind the timing plate) were adjusted? I understand there are sets of springs that can alter the timing curve...

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Charging System:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...harging_system

I would do the stator voltage tests & also MAKE SURE the voltage regulator is properly grounded...

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The timing was checked static. I have removed the carb again to clean the pilot jet as have been told that this blocks up on the cv carb. I noticed that the cap is still in place to get to the mixture screw so it must be a stock carb. Could it be mixture issues or jetting as it obviously isn't stage 1 if I can't get to the adjustment?
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Hello all. She runs!! The idle jet was slightly blocked but it does idle now. Not the smoothest runner with a few pops and bangs. Could this be due to the carb being standard and from my 883? Does it require jetting or can I live with it with a reduced power?
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On a 1200 model, I would start with 45 pilot jet & 175 main - then tune from there, upping the 175 only if the top end throttle creates lean burning plugs...

45 pilot jet should use about 3 to 3-1/2 turns out on the Idle Mixture Screw from a light seat position...

Make sure you don't have any air intake leaks - Use an unlit propane torch around the seals to see if the engine senses any propane being sucked in...

Be sure to read of the SP link I posted in Post#3 - Read it carefully & thoroughly - There's a lot of information in there and every line of every chart is important - Collect your complete data on the bike so you know what you have and then post it here so we know what you have & can help you get the tune right...

Is this the same bike that you have torn down for rotor magnets?

Don't rush either situation - Make sure you cover all the bases before reassembly & make sure you do a thorough job of cleaning/checking the entire fuel flow function from tank to float bowl to jets, needles and IMS settings...


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Jowniofownio Jowniofownio is offline
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Thanks very much. Very helpful information. Will look into it over the week and get back with my results.
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