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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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Tags
180 rear, 180 tire, big tire, chain conversion, wide tire

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  #1  
Old 31st January 2015
kstamp09 kstamp09 is offline
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Default Sportster 180 rear tire conversion write-up

Hopefully this will help some of you guys attempting to do a 180 rear tire on your sportsters.. I tried to find information when doing my swap & it was a nightmare so i decided to write this to help my 2 wheel brothers. Please let me know if any revisions need to be made or for any tips or suggestions! Sorry i didn't get any pics during the process, it was a lot of trial & error.

My bike is a 2014 Sportster Forty-Eight XL1200X, I imagine it will work for most late model 07+ sports.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xqDjo8EAJ8



Parts you will need…

Michelin Scorcher 11 180/55R17 (HD part no. 43200011)
**you may be able to get away with other brands of tires, it is a tight fit so check your measurements, I chose this tire to match the OEM front tire on my 48.**

17x4.5 Street Bob 25mm rear wheel (HD part no. 41430-09 for black, 40979-08 for chrome) or any wheel of your choosing will work so long as it meets the same specs.

17” band & tube for the tire (most shops will have these when you get the tire mounted)

**NOTICE** The street bob wheel must be mounted BACKWARDS as the drive side and brake rotor are on the OPOSSITE side of a sportster vs a Dyna.******

Bearings (9276A) & sleeve (43905-08), if needed, I reused mine, as my bike only had 1,000 miles on it.

Two (2) spacers to re-center the wheel. If you have never noticed, the rear wheel of the sportsters sit slightly off-center. This will be necessary to avoid being too close to the frame rails on the left side.
eBay user diggnvball custom cut these spacers for me per my specifications, contact him if you need a source for them. Specifications are as follow:
Inside Diameter: 25mm
Outside Diamter: 1-1/2" (1.500)
Length: 3/16"
(0.1875)

and the other;
Inside Diameter: 25mm
Outside Diamter: 1-1/2"
(1.500)
Length: 1.28125"

Chain conversion parts, I do not know for certain if the belt can be reused. My goal was to convert to chain anyway, maybe someone can provide this information at a latter date. This is the kit I used, give them a call for a custom ratio to suite your needs. You may also be able to piece together the kit and save some coin but this is the easiest option.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/pr...n-kits-xl.html



1. DO NOT lift the bike just yet. You will need all the help you can get breaking loose the nut on the transmission (this step is not necessary if you do not plan to do a chain conversion, however, as previously stated, I do not know if clearance exist for the belt)
2. Remove rear exhaust pipe (if necessary) and cover, etc to access transmission sprocket.
3. Remove transmission nut lock with the 2 allen screws.
4. Remove the transmission nut using a 1 7/8” socket. Keep in mind that **IT IS REVERSE THREAD** & good luck. It takes some serious muscle to get this SOB off.
5. Remove the seat & rear fender, etc & lift the rear of the bike & loosen the belt tensioners (10mm bolt at rear of swing arms)
6. Remove the large axle nut from the “driver’s” side & slide out the axle sleeve, your wheel and tire should be free once you wrestle free the brake caliper. **You will reuse the ‘driver’ side spacer, do not discard it** You’ll need to undo the shock mount to get the belt free, or just cut it if you do not intent to reuse it.
7. Install bearings, rotor, and drive sprocket onto the new rear wheel/tire, torque to spec & don’t forget the loctite. (55-65 ft lbs)
8. Reinstall the wheel onto the bike, using the 1.28125” spacer in place of the OEM ‘passenger’ side spacer. The original ‘driver’ spacer will be reused between the wheel and caliper bracket, with the new 3/16” spacer placed between the swing arm and caliper bracket. Hope this all makes sense.
9. Install your new chain sprocket to the transmission (If doing chain conversion) and check & confirm alignment with your rear sprocket.
10. Ensure that the axle is slide all the way forward and install the new chain to the proper length.
11. Reinstall the transmission nut, put the bike in gear & torque to 50 ft lbs, replace the lock nut (again, don’t forget the loctite).
12. Tension your chain using the 10mm tensioners on the rear of the swing arms, measure the axle on each side from a common point to make sure it is perfectly straight, torque the axle (95-105 ft lbs).
13. Replace fender, seat, etc & enjoy how our bikes should have came from the factory




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  #2  
Old 4th February 2015
vaakko's Avatar
vaakko vaakko is offline
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Default

Great description. The 17" wheel doesn't pop out to my eye at all, nice work!

I'm currently doing 160mm (Metzeler Marathon) conversion to my 48. I'm using the original spoke wheels, just replace the rear rim from original 3" to 4". So I'll use the original hub, spokes etc. I'm not plannig to do chain conversion so the original belt stays.

I got the Metzeler cheap so I'll use that but it is no longer current model so after that wears out I think I'll use Shinko 170mm. I've seen lots of pics people putting the 170mm Shinko to original 3" rim, but my service guy said he won't do that because the 160mm or wider tire wont be properly supported by the 3" rim. What I've read, people hadn't had any problems with original 3" rim but better be on the safe side with this...
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  #3  
Old 4th February 2015
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KFields KFields is offline
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kstamp09, that tire looks great on there. I had a question not related to your conversion though. What kind of license plate bracket is that? Does it have a light? Thank you for your help.
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  #4  
Old 5th February 2015
kstamp09 kstamp09 is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KFields View Post
kstamp09, that tire looks great on there. I had a question not related to your conversion though. What kind of license plate bracket is that? Does it have a light? Thank you for your help.
yes it has a strip of LED's, its made by Figure Machine.


& BTW an update:

according to a member of another forum it CAN be done while retaining belt drive, just retain the stock spacers & possibly grind a little off the "driver" side fender support.
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  #5  
Old 5th February 2015
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keef keef is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kstamp09 View Post
according to a member of another forum it CAN be done while retaining belt drive, just retain the stock spacers & possibly grind a little off the "driver" side fender support.
Yep,you can retain the belt.
I used the same wheel on my 883R.I just had to mess about with the spacers to get it centred.Mine needed moving over to the r/h side by 3mm.
The belt pulley was a bit close to the guard,but a bit of bending of the bracket sorted it.
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