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chain conversion, rear sprocket

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  #11  
Old 2nd April 2017
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Default It's all good bro!

Thanks again guys!

I've seen the 283's for less than $60 on Amazon and the 2073's on there as well for just over $60.

I'd read Shaggy's thread and some others and I realize there are numerous way to accomplish a chain conversion, from retrofitting with the different seal and spacer and using a 277 type, to the method employed by the Lowbrow kit.

When I saw that Lowbrow's kit was just a pair of sprockets and 5 bolts, and suspecting that Lowbrow dang sure isn't in the sprocket manufacturing biz, I knew it was just a matter of research to figure out what / who's sprockets they use.
I don't think 5 chrome bolts and lockwashers are worth $50...

I just wanted to save myself @ $50+ bucks and I wanted a ratio kinda in between stock 883 and 1200 gearing.

So in a nutshell:

A PBI 283 and 2073 sprocket pair along with an appropriate 530 chain will bolt on with no extra unnecessary parts, clear a 130-150 tire and rid Me or anyone else of belt grenadeage forever!

Sounds about right eh? Thanks again guys!

Last edited by TurboDog; 2nd April 2017 at 04:11.. Reason: clarity
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  #12  
Old 2nd April 2017
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TurboDog, what tooth count are you going to run and do you know how long the chain needs to be? I have an 02 and am going to do the conversion. Thanks for starting this.
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  #13  
Old 10th April 2017
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Spoon,

I believe a 120 link chain will do the job from everything I've been reading. It needs to be shortened to size, thus requiring a chain breaker/riveter tool.

As for ratio, My plan is to split the difference between the stock 883 and 1200 ratios. I really love the 883 ratio everywhere BUT the Highway.. On the highway the 883 ratio sucks. I really wish I could afford the Baker 6 spd. Trans, as I could keep the super tight 883 ratio for its almost perfect acceleration and around town spread, and then snick it into 6th for lower highway cruising RPM's...

Maybe someday..
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  #14  
Old 29th April 2017
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Well, the suspense is killing Me.. I ordered the sprockets and chain last Saturday and I'll be damned if they still aren't here. In an attempt to keep My money local I asked My local indy shop to order the stuff. It has been delays galore.. Anyhow, I ordered:
PBI 283-22 Front sprocket
PBI 2073-48 Rear sprocket
And a D.I.D. X-ring 120 link chain

Hopefully it will all be here this coming Tuesday. Once I've got all the stuff I'll share how it goes together of if I screwed up!
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  #15  
Old 29th April 2017
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Here is my thread on chain conversion for a 2003.

http://xlforum.net/forums/s....php?t=1508456

The 140 Commander2 is the tire I was running at the time. 140/90r16. Make sure you use a good straight edge to check your sprocket alignment or you will chew through chains and rear sprockets. Now that I have grafted a 2004 swingarm onto mine, I can easily run a 160 with minimal strut spreading. I currently have a 170/50zr17 on the back, but I'm retarded like that...
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  #16  
Old 30th April 2017
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Hmm, after reading Your thread cyco, I hope I didn't screw the pooch with the setup I chose. That being the 283 front ( .5" offset ) Flat aluminum rear ( hope like hell I don't frag one, let alone 3 in less than 25k miles!)..

I already have what I believe is a .25" spacer behind the stock pulley in the rear, to clear a 150 tire. ( I've been running it this way for @ 45k miles, hence why I can't remember how thick it is..)

I started this thread in an attempt to give us 5 spd rigid mount guys an iron clad formula to go chain as cheaply as possible, while hopefully clarifying the needed offsets, so a rider could pick and choose their ratio, unlike all the kits I've seen whilst allowing You to change the least ammount of parts.

So far I already blew the cheap part out the window by using my local guy to order the stuff which has been a f\'(in' nightmare, an expensive nightmare @ $354!
I attempted to research this to the nines before I started because I read so many conflicting stories on what's really needed.

Oh well at this point maybe I'll just be able to show folks the most expensive P.I.T.A way to put a chain on their bike.. That damn Lowbrow kit looks like a steal at this point.
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  #17  
Old 30th April 2017
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You probably should have gone with the PBI flat steel 48t rear. I have 12-14 k on mine and about 300 passes at the track. Its on chain number 2... ( I am not interested in the "You need to change all sprockets if you buy a new chain" BS so take it somewhere else...) and Front sprocket #2 as I went from a 23 to a 21..

"h has been a f\'(in' nightmare, an expensive nightmare @ $354!
I attempted to research this to the nines before I started because I read so many conflicting stories on what's really needed."

Sorry man, I was out of town for work and I really don't check the board much when I am on travel. You should be OK with the 0.5 offset and flat rear flush on the rim. Aluminium sprockets hated sustained HWY speeds on my bike ( 40 to 60 miles will heat the sprocket enough to wear it quickly ) the PBI steel is the same price as the aluminium one, so its a moot point... when I first converted, they did not make a steel version.

For future reference... 2000-2003 rigid chain conversion

Disclaimer: It is your responsibility to check for correct alignment, parts interference, and measurement. Every bike is a little different and HD manufacturing tolerances are on the wide side... Especially in the swingarm area. I cannot guarantee what spacer is needed for the 0.750 wide tire setup that I run. I also cannot tell you what axle and or spacers you will need. I do know it is a couple hour job to measure everything and locate the parts you need using the links below. If you ask me a question, be prepared to go take measurements.

How to take measurements

Is a rear sprocket spacer needed for my bike?...: If you have already purchased a "sprocket kit" it is still a good idea to see if it is properly aligned.

Mock up:
1. install your sprockets and the rear wheel into bike. be sure to correctly place the factory axle spacers. align tire as if you were tensioning belt following the FSM procedure.
2. do not install chain.
3. using a good straight edge "angle iron is relatively cheap" clamp it to rear sprocket in a manner that will allow you to pass it below front sprocket and rotate it into the tooth area of front sprocket. You can get away with 0.020 inch so check it with a feeler gauge.
4. If your straight edge barely touches front sprocket, you are all set.. install your chain...( you may have to shorten your chain...)
5. If your straight edge passed outside of front sprocket you may have forgotten the backing ring for the front, or you bought the wrong sprocket...
6. If your edge passed into the teeth area by .060 inch or more you need a rear sprocket spacer . (use a short piece of straight edge on front sprocket, do not try to calculate using the pitched area of tooth). Please use something other than a raggedy old tape measure... a harbor freight micrometer is better than that...
7. once you measure the offset and convert it to a fraction (1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, etc,,, are standard sizes) you can order your spacer from the vendor of your choice.

Vulcanworks sportster kit:http://vulcanworks.net/store/Sportst...5-5-Speed.html

PBI Harley Catalog page: http://shop.pbisprockets.com/categor...4?categoryId=2

Rear Sprocket(select finish and 2.214 center and then tooth count from 48 -56) : http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product...6&categoryId=8

Front sprocket(0.500 in offset):http://shop.pbisprockets.com/product.sc?productId=25

Vulcan Engineering makes several rear sprocket spacers:http://vulcanworks.net/store/Harley-...y-Spacers.html

If you need less than 1/8th inch...(I found them in 0.060 thickness correctly cut for our wheel):http://vulcanworks.net/store/Belt-Pu...-40932-81.html


Ratios with "Stock Tire"
22f/48r will feel stock
21f/48r will feel snappy and still be rideable at HWY speeds
21f/50r will feel like 4.11s
21f/52r will feel like 4.56s

For referance: https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc...0r16-170-50r17

I run the 170/50/zr17 with a 21f/48r setup. 7200rpm in 4th is about 123mph the way my bike is configured(yes, its been there...) my speedo is programmable, so I really don't know what that will do to the stock one.
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  #18  
Old 1st May 2017
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cyco, thank You very much!

You just did a far better write up than I likely would've done!

To be frank, I don't currently have My own workspace to just tear My bike apart, let it sit after I took the needed measurements and then wait on the stuff to get here... I would've had to tear it down, measure, reassemble to wheel it outta My friend's shop and then do it all over again once the stuff got to Me. A pain in the ass that I'm sure other members may be able to relate to.

I figured that someone else had been there done that and perhaps had shared a comprehensive write up with the rest of the world on whats needed.

I'd previously searched for info as comprehensive as You just wrote above, but to no avail.
So mega thanks for breaking it down like that.


I'm somewhat commited to the stuff I've already ordered because I just don't like to burn folks Who've helped Me out in the past ( My indy.) But rest assured, if the aluminum sprocket dies prematurely, I'll just snag the steel one.

I intentionally chose parts that I felt I could ( What was I thinking..) locate quickly for a replacement.

According to My math, the stock 883 27/61 ratio = 2.25 to 1, and the stock 1200 29/61 ratio= 2.10 to 1

A 22/48= 2.18 Which I hope makes for a little less vibes at highway speeds, without giving up too much of the nice gear spacing the stock 883 ratio gives.. We will see. Y'all will hear the details here!
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  #19  
Old 1st May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDog View Post
cyco, thank You very much!

You just did a far better write up than I likely would've done!

To be frank, I don't currently have My own workspace to just tear My bike apart, let it sit after I took the needed measurements and then wait on the stuff to get here... I would've had to tear it down, measure, reassemble to wheel it outta My friend's shop and then do it all over again once the stuff got to Me. A pain in the ass that I'm sure other members may be able to relate to.

I figured that someone else had been there done that and perhaps had shared a comprehensive write up with the rest of the world on whats needed.

I'd previously searched for info as comprehensive as You just wrote above, but to no avail.
So mega thanks for breaking it down like that.


I'm somewhat commited to the stuff I've already ordered because I just don't like to burn folks Who've helped Me out in the past ( My indy.) But rest assured, if the aluminum sprocket dies prematurely, I'll just snag the steel one.

I intentionally chose parts that I felt I could ( What was I thinking..) locate quickly for a replacement.

According to My math, the stock 883 27/61 ratio = 2.25 to 1, and the stock 1200 29/61 ratio= 2.10 to 1

A 22/48= 2.18 Which I hope makes for a little less vibes at highway speeds, without giving up too much of the nice gear spacing the stock 883 ratio gives.. We will see. Y'all will hear the details here!


22/48 is good on the street and highway IMO


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  #20  
Old 2nd May 2017
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My 1250 smoothes out around 3400. 3100 to 3300 seem extra viby to me.

I will be in Dallas tx next week for work if you are close to there.

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