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  #61  
Old 25th May 2018
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please post.

i have another idea, just need to get the part. it will be compression, set screws mark up stuff. it is off shelf and probably no machining necessary. probably pick it up since i have to deliver the guitar.
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  #62  
Old 26th May 2018
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Thaaaattttt's it. Good and sturdy. 1/2" compression to 1/2" FIP fitting. Brilliant bustert!! I'll pick one up tomorrow on the way to the shop.
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  #63  
Old 27th May 2018
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Default Success!

Bustert, I really wanted the brass fitting to work since the back nut is small enough to slide a 15/16" box end over it and back to the nut which makes turning the engine over easier than finding the flats with an open end wrench. But, the hole is .005" too small to go over the pinion shaft.

I reamed that out with the .5615" reamer and it was still too close to the shaft for me (being metal and all) when it did slide on. So, I ran a 9/16" drill bit thru it which worked fine. But, the 1/2" O-ring, once on the shaft, will not slide into the back nut to allow the front one to catch any threads. I could cut a few threads from the back nut to allow room for the O-ring. I'm not sure that would be enough but I'll try it. The ID needs to be a tad larger.




Nylon Adapter:

The nylon however was accidently flawless. It took no time to make it but a lot more time to cut the nylon down to a 1/4" for a set screw, then thread it for 1/4x28, pick up the tools, head home to find out I left the &%*^ set screw at the shop. As angry as I was at myself, I did a test fit anyway with the bushing.

It is a good slip fit from the reamer and it tightens up nicely once pushed onto the shaft. I had to gently pry it with a screwdriver to 'pop' it loose and it slid off from there. Holds the degree wheel nice and tight. Plus, it'll tighten up where I stop pushing. So it'll allow room to adjust the wrench on the nut. I know now I could cut the OD down to .950" which would allow the wrench to slide over the bushing since I don't need a set screw.



I threaded the end #10-32, same screw that holds the timing cup to #2 cam.


Dims: 1"x1.150", hole was drilled with a 35/64" bit, reamed .5615" with a chucking reamer.


I made it too long. It only needs to have about a half inch internal hole, maybe even shorter in retrospect. But, I was counting on the threaded nylon to not tighten up enough on the wheel and adding extra room for a nut behind the wheel.

EDIT: I've added the build process for this bushing in the Sportsterpedia if interested:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...#nylon_bushing

Brass Adapter (concept by bustert):

The brass fitting worked perfectly with smaller O-rings.


Used (2) - 1/2" OD x 3/8" ID x 1/16" thick stretched over the pinion shaft and stuffed into the back nut with a small flathead screwdriver far enough for the front nut to catch a thread.


All tightened up.


All the parts in order: I drilled the front nut 9/16" which left it sharp where it touched the O-rings so I filed that edge flat.


One thing, if you plan to do this more than once, buy O-rings in quantity packages. It tore them up but worked great, nice and tight. Gutentight

Last edited by Hippysmack; 4 Weeks Ago at 05:30..
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  #64  
Old 27th May 2018
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the mill is a 9/16 or the .562 dimension in the post. the o-rings i used are narrow, could go measure them but when compressed, they would expand out. if i had a shaft, could have checked it. they were stretched in order to install to the shaft. looking at the jpeg, seems to be enough room but the nut and fitting could be reduced in size to give more room since it would not take much to compress the o-ring to the shaft.
on the fitting, did it use a double taper ferrule?? if so, that may have been the issue since the fitting i used only had one taper and was flat bottomed to the nut and the hole was probably larger to allow the top of the ferrule to extend out the top of the nut where it is captured by a slight expansion.
if so, totally my bad!!! did not process the idea out far enough. i just picked up the first one i saw not thinking about ferrule construction.

the nylon adapter looks great. it would not take much to lock it so a composite set screw would probably to the trick. for the box wrench, use a gear wrench so you would not have to remove everytime you need to roll the engine.

well, like i said, el gusano grade, seeing things. i totally screwed up on that one, went and pulled the pieces i used then it dawned on me, although the mill was 9/16, i did not look at the shaft size and instead of using a 9/16 collet, i picked up a 1/2 collet. although it could be milled out, i see your point, not much meat left although it probably would work.
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  #65  
Old 27th May 2018
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I was trying to get both our ideas to work . The compression nut on the brass fitting is what I drilled out to 9/16" as the hole in it came factory at app. .557". The pinion shaft O.D. is app .5615" (I originally said .562" but I only have the 3 digit caliper and I eyeballed it to 1/2 thou less upon re-checking the dia. before ordering the reamer).

The O-ring has no choice but to be stuffed inside the nut and it just won't go with the threads in the way. I think the fitting will work with the addition of a couple threads cut out of the back end of the compression nut so the O-ring can sit there. I will do this when I get back to the shop next week just to see though.

But, this requires machining also which was not my original goal. I am glad a solution or too was found however. Everybody don't have access to a lathe (me either once I tell them to go &^#! themselves) so I was wanting an everyday solution. I'd like to try rubber washers instead of O-rings to give more flex around the threads.

No need for a set screw with the nylon bushing. It's either the slip fit, chamfer on the inside rear of the hole from the drill bit, trapped air when the bushing is installed, composition of the nylon or a combination of these things but it holds firm when pushed onto either my new and old crankshaft.

Last edited by Hippysmack; 27th May 2018 at 18:38..
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  #66  
Old 27th May 2018
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well, i will go mill the fitting i have but since it will not carry a load, i believe it will still work.
i really need to organize the cabinet. the o-rings can be small since it is the crush that will give friction.
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  #67  
Old 27th May 2018
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well, i opened it to .562 or 9/16 and there is plenty of meat to allow compression.
actually it still is doable with out a mill because a drill bit will do the job.
the o-rings need to be smaller than the 9/16 so probably 1/2 will do if the cross section is small also. no need to cut nut for o-ring groove. as the o-rings stretch, they will thin out, i found two give a better responce, locks up quicker.
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  #68  
Old 28th May 2018
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All done. I updated the pics in post #63 to keep them both together. The first O-rings I tried were 1/2" ID and 3/32" thick. I tried smaller ID 3/32" O-rings with no luck. So, I found some 3/8" ID O-rings (1/2" OD) that were only 1/16" thick and that worked.

Thanks bustert, now, about that aluminum compression bushing.....
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  #69  
Old 28th May 2018
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well if i had paid attention, would not have screwed up on the size.
this is no machining what so ever. the nut is 15/16 so the wrench would still pass.
i tailed the end of the video with a correction. if i would have gotten the right collet the first time, it would have been 5/8 comp x 1/2 fip.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ai1IB6tXwG0
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  #70  
Old 29th May 2018
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Good video bustert.
And you are correct, the 5/8" compression to 1/2" FIP fitting works flawlessly. No cutting/drilling required. You will have to knock the ferrule bushing out of the comp nut is all. Then add the 1/2" plug tapped to flavor for the wheel. The 15/16" wrench slides over the entire assembly, then add the wheel. No adverse affects on the O-rings either. With the 5/8" nut, you can use (2) 11/16" OD x 1/2" ID x 3/32" O-rings


Last edited by Hippysmack; 29th May 2018 at 05:27..
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