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  #11  
Old 28th August 2019
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When you set the float level did you have the carb set at the 15-20 degree angle pre shop manual ?
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  #12  
Old 28th August 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikam123 View Post
Just saw your second post. Mine is definitely OEM in nature at least looks similar to the first. My gas line from the petcock has a little tearing and damage at the very end above the clamp where it runs into the petcock. Although I doubt this would be a problem as it doesn't leak from there
Fuel lines deteriorate on the inside and can cause little black specs of rubber to end up in the bowl. These little specs could cause the needle and seat issue too. Mine was a little split like that too. Both ends actually. It wasnt leaking but I feared it was breaking down and replaced it anyway and used slightly bigger line too.
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  #13  
Old 28th August 2019
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Here's the Sportsterpedia page on the CV40 carb:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb02

1) Do you have the 4-sided float valve? I suspect that helps to center the valve more consistently than the 3-sided float valve...

2) I found for my carb that setting it according to the FSM was NOT enough pressure to consistently close the valve... After setting to the suggested position, I added a bit more pressure on the valve by tweaking the float tang - Just enough so that when I moderately blew air down the fuel line, the float valve would not open...

3) The float bowl overflow should prevent fuel from getting into the engine... It should overflow out of the bowl before overflowing into the intake...

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  #14  
Old 29th August 2019
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Cool

if fuel is coming out of the overflow, it's getting past the needle valve, period, there's no other way.... sometimes the little rubber tip gets a little dent or a dirty seat..... here's a trick that has worked for me many times to clean a dirty seat...... turn the petcock off and run the engine to lower the fuel level in the bowl and open the needle valve, engine off, remove fuel line from carb and spray aerosol carb cleaner (with the little straw on the can)right into the carb fuel inlet......give a good douche, re-install fuel line, turn petcock on and run engine for a bit to clear the carb clean from the bowl.....

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  #15  
Old 30th August 2019
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My 91 did that (overflow on occasion) only if I left the petcock on.
solution was to replace the carb with a later model with a deeper bowl .
Best $100 bucks ever spent (used carb)
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  #16  
Old 1st September 2019
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Update: Pulled the petcock to check on my filter. It seemed like maybe gunk got into my float bowl and caused my float valve to stick. The filter had completely come off from the petcock which was quite surprising to me. I plan on rebuilding the petcock filter later but didn't want to wait for the parts. Reinstalled everything and put an inline fuel filter, and seemed to run great.

Went for a 2-hour ride and on the last 30 minutes, it started struggling a little bit at stops and kind of wanted to die. I thought it might have been slightly flooding even though there was no visible flooding. Got it home with some moderating the petcock. Pulled the carb cover and there was visible gas in the carb.

I ordered a new float valve the old one didn't seem to fit the rubber gasket perfectly, so I am assuming it might be running rich from the float bowl?

Does this sound correct? Also, going to recheck float level. However, since it ran for 1.5 hrs perfectly I still feel like the float valve is just having issues.
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  #17  
Old 1st September 2019
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As I recall the long one throws the float level waaaay off !
Where if you set the level to spec the bike runs out of fuel at WOT in 2nd gear.


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  #18  
Old 16th September 2019
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Ordered a new float valve from cv performance. I think the old neoprene tip was coming off the valve and causing it to get stuck open. Installed new valve and set float level. This seems to have fixed all the issues. Thanks for all the assistance gentlemen!
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Old 16th September 2019
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Good deal.
Let us know if that fixes it.
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