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  #1  
Old 13th October 2019
Seeny Seeny is offline
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Default XLCH Crazy voltage spike

Hey all. My current issue with my bike is voltage related.

Recently I started noticing that i was blowing light bulbs like crazy. This was when i was still running a bosch mechanical regulator and a battery thats less than 12 months old. I tried to get to the source of the problem, so started by freshing up all the related wiring harness as most of the wiring was like 40 plus years old. I did this along with replacing the reg with a similar style but NOS. This obviously didn't fix the issue. I decided to bite the bullet and replace the whole charging system with a Cycle Electric DGV5000. I put all my eggs in one basket and assumed that this would resolve it. As you can imagine after dropping a lot of cash on the unit and it not fixing it I'm pretty upset.

My last resort was filming the issue with a mulimeter, hoping you guys might have some suggestions.
The readings jump from 12 up to 19 down to 13 up to 16 down to 11 etc as you'll see in the videos.

This seems to be an unusual issue as it seems most people of here have the opposite problem with their bikes not holding a charge.

Im worried that I'll end up cooking my battery and risk it catching on fire so I need to get to the bottom of it.

Any helps hugely appreciated.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MaHMekGr7Mc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrYkKrfLM0A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQc0y51q7Mo

Heres how I've wired the genny as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Phj-e3qyKoc
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  #2  
Old 13th October 2019
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Folkie Folkie is offline
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Seeny, I’ve moved this to the Irοnhead section, where you’ve got the best chance of getting the help you’re looking for.
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  #3  
Old 13th October 2019
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Default

The ground wiring is just as important - Have you checked for solid ground connections between the Battery Negative terminal and the Generator? And to the rest of the frame?

Are you sure the Keyswitch wiring is solid to the Battery Positive terminal? No internal breaks from flexing or pinching?

Did you crimp the new terminal ends on the new wire? Have you checked the Generator output (multimeter grounded to gen body & red probe on the output post) with the new wire disconnected (running the bike from the battery only)?

Are you certain of the readings from your multimeter?

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  #4  
Old 13th October 2019
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Is your generator polarized?
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Old 13th October 2019
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mr. relax makes a valid point on grounding. you should have a good bucket ground in the light and a solid ground jumper from the system to the center ground point on the tree below the terminal board.
as far as the genny, it is very possible to see spikes as it is not an alternator per say. if you have brush to commutator segment issues there will be spikes. the new regulator should be faster than the magnetic coupled mechanical unit but it to responds to output from the generator so like a computer, trash in trash out. perhaps some more run time on the new unit will help. do not rule out even a new battery. see if there is any ac ripple, lighting does not like it as it causes the filament to vibrate.
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Old 13th October 2019
The Doctor71 The Doctor71 is offline
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One would think a brand new Cycle Electric DGV5000 would be almost plug & play.... and your wiring looks correct. BTW, no polarization needed.

That leaves the multimeter.

So before proceeding down any other path, I would verify the "readout" accuracy of your multimeter. aka borrow another multimeter from a neighbor or friend, ensure it's a different brand, & even get an older analogue version if you can (my personal preference).

In simple terms, I suspect the readout on the digital version you have is over reacting to quick volt changes from the DGV5000.

As an aside, when you get it all sorted out, you'll want to consider wiring up the gen light too.
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  #7  
Old 13th October 2019
Nacs Nacs is offline
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Mechanical regulators will do this. My other bikes had mechanical regs and they all had random spikes before failing completely.

Newer technology batteries like lithium, cannot handle the voltage fluctuation of a mechanical regulator either. You will fry batteries fast. AGM batteries are better but they may still be a risk.

With that being said, Ive converted all my mechanical reg bikes to solid state, and I use AGM batteries.
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  #8  
Old 13th October 2019
Seeny Seeny is offline
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Hey guys, thanks for all your thoughts and feed back. This is why I love this community!

Apologies as there willbe a lot of 'quoting' in this thread, as electrics arent my strong point.
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  #9  
Old 13th October 2019
Seeny Seeny is offline
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Hey Relax. You raise a good point and the the ground is probably one area I have over looked! The bike has a bit of risidual oil from minor leaks around the main ground to the frame so maybe that could be affecting it?

The swith terminals all look sound, the switch its self is probabaly of the same era as the bike and can be a little twitchy between positions, but cant imagine that could be affecting it?

I have crimped the terminals my self to the new generator wire. They all seem soild.


Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Have you checked the Generator output (multimeter grounded to gen body & red probe on the output post) with the new wire disconnected (running the bike from the battery only)?
With the above are you meaning I should be doing two seperate tests? One focused on the generator its self and the other you mean by disconnecting the generator and doing a regular read out from the battery again?
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Old 13th October 2019
Seeny Seeny is offline
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Default

Thanks Bustert!

I will make sure any of the grounds from my to my headlight and taillight seem ok as well!

With the below I'm already kind of out of my depth. I'm not too sure what brush to commutator segment issues are. Also I'm not familar with ac rippling. I just tried to google it but was instantly confused haha. Are you able to explain a little more?

I will definitely get onto sourcing another multimeter though as the one I have is trash (as you can tell my the vice girps) haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
if you have brush to commutator segment issues there will be spikes. the new regulator should be faster than the magnetic coupled mechanical unit but it to responds to output from the generator so like a computer, trash in trash out. perhaps some more run time on the new unit will help. do not rule out even a new battery. see if there is any ac ripple, lighting does not like it as it causes the filament to vibrate.
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