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  #11  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
shanneba shanneba is offline
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I have run HD Formula+, HD Syn3, Red Line MT-90, Red Line 75w-90, Red line 75w-110 in my primary/transmission.

I didn't test the Formula+ or Syn3 but of the others the Red Line MT-90 showed the least wear. I have the HD SE performance clutch kit.
http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...8&postcount=13

You may find this thread helpful when selecting a gear oil for your Sportster:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/sport...-answered.html
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  #12  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Perfect timing for me on this topic as I'll be changing the oils soon. My 2011 Nightster is my first Sportster and as in all the Harley's I've had, it's a bit noisy. This one has a rattling sound which some Sportster guys I've met say the same. One guy said he starting using Harley's 80W-140 gear oil instead of their Formula+ and that helped. The Formula+ doesn't list its weight but it does pour pretty thin for a gear oil. I don't ride through the winter so I'm not concerned about it being too heavy. There is only 1500 miles on the bike. In its first 6 years, the previous owner rode about 100 miles a year and in 2 years I've only put on 900 miles. Not that it matters but maybe it's just not broken in. All comments are certainly appreciated. Thanks
Rich
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  #13  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
shanneba shanneba is offline
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Formula+ has a viscosity of about 20cSt at 100C.
About the same as most xw-50 motor oils.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...&Number=926039

General viscosity ranges :
A 20w-50 motor oil will have a 100F viscosity around 120-130cSt, about 18-20 cSt at 212 F.
A 75w-90 gear oil will have a 100F viscosity around 110-120cSt, about 16-18 cSt at 212 F.
A 75w-140 gear oil will have a 100F viscosity around 180-190cSt, about 24-27 cSt at 212 F.

Motor oil and gear oil "weights" are measured using different viscosity range scales.
A 90 weight gear oil is close to a 50 weight motor oil as far as viscosity is concerned.

Motor oils need additives to deal with combustion blow by, fighting the moisture and carbon.
Gear oils do not need those additives, GL-5 gear oils do have additives to fight the gear loads for hypoid type gears in a differential.
The Harley transmissions do not really need that additive as the gears are not a hypoid type.



The current HD Sportster transmissions do have a slight angle to some of the gears for quieter operation.



The older Sportsters (those with a trap door and earlier I believe) had straight cut gears


Last edited by shanneba; 4 Weeks Ago at 15:06..
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  #14  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Maxeffort Maxeffort is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich1200 View Post
Perfect timing for me on this topic as I'll be changing the oils soon. My 2011 Nightster is my first Sportster and as in all the Harley's I've had, it's a bit noisy. This one has a rattling sound which some Sportster guys I've met say the same. One guy said he starting using Harley's 80W-140 gear oil instead of their Formula+ and that helped. The Formula+ doesn't list its weight but it does pour pretty thin for a gear oil. I don't ride through the winter so I'm not concerned about it being too heavy. There is only 1500 miles on the bike. In its first 6 years, the previous owner rode about 100 miles a year and in 2 years I've only put on 900 miles. Not that it matters but maybe it's just not broken in. All comments are certainly appreciated. Thanks
Rich
Check the primary chain adjustment.
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  #15  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Thanks Maxeffort..Thinking the same thing, I've check that a couple of times both cold and hot. The play is good..at least according to the service manual
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  #16  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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If I were drag racing I'd run B&M TrickShift. Original, not the synthetic. As it is, I've been toying with mixing it 50/50 with the Spectro.
E1 actually recommends B&M TrickShift for their clutches but I'm not sure I want something that thin for my gear box even tho some here have no issues doing so.

I was running the Spectro STL 75W140 with the stock clutch but got away from the synthetic with the kevlar E1.
The Spectro I'm running now is 80wt gear oil. Slightly thinner than F+.

I wouldn't have an issue running any Redline stuff either.
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Last edited by 60Gunner; 4 Weeks Ago at 16:42..
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  #17  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Mineral oil B&M trick shift is just Type F Fluid. Its not so tricky, but automatic clutch packs will grab a little harder/quicker with Type F than Dexron.
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  #18  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxeffort View Post
Mineral oil B&M trick shift is just Type F Fluid. Its not so tricky, but automatic clutch packs will grab a little harder/quicker with Type F than Dexron.
Acknowledged. Just formulated a little better for racing apps with a little higher flash point and wear numbers. I wouldn't hesitate to run the type F either but I've had a bottle of the TrickShift on the shelf for some time.

I suspect some here would find it(trickshift/type f) too grabby. My only concern is the gear box and why I'll probably mix it 50/50 with the 80wt.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 4 Weeks Ago at 17:22..
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  #19  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Redline Racing Type F meets GL-4 specs.

The late Sportsters' helical gears actually engage the same way, same type of contact patch progression, that hypoids' have. Both have thrust loadings straight cut gears don't have. GL-5 is better for both but the Sportster transmissions tooth loading may be low enough that it really doesn't matter.

Extreme pressure additives (that GL-5 has more of) usually make our dog type transmissions shift better.
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Last edited by Tomcatt; 4 Weeks Ago at 22:42..
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  #20  
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jkinkade jkinkade is offline
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Thank you Shanneba, that is some good information!
Well I have no means of testing the oil's. I go more by feel when I'm shifting , also I go by how the clutch feel's.
looking back to when I had my twin cam Dyna carb model & I used Redline Heavy Shockproof that was the best feeling shifting oil of all & latter when I pulled gear box out to check all looked as new.

Back to the sportster, in the past I've noticed any heavy gear oil's tend to load up the clutch. you can tell if your clutch is loading up, as when you put it in gear when its cold you will feel a hard thud sometimes a bang as it goes in gear. light oils you won't have that happen. also clutch will not feel as nice when your using it.

my motor is 88" stock stroke 03 year & Axtell 3 13/16" bore cast iron barrels. I've ridden it 16,000 kilometres since converting from 74" has late EFI heads but use a CV & hammer manifold. I've been using Formula x , but just switched to Redline MT-90 feels slightly smoother in the shift , thats giving it the gas and shifting quick, the clutch feels the same with both oil's ( no problem with the clutch , no spring plate extra plate SE clutch ) but a friend said when he was in USA Redline oil's told him the Redline light Shockproof is the best oil for sportster & Buell gear box + primary. so I'm thinking about trying that but asking , as friend talked to people racing Sportsters in USA who said they use the light shockproof & less wear.
that's why I posted here as racers post here.
well thank's for all advice & help.
the bike gets ridden on the street mostly & will go to the track just to see what times & speeds I can do, but will not be a drag bike ( stock wheelbase, ride to track ride home belt drive stock 1200 gearing )
even at track it won't see over 6,000 rev
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