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Sportster Motorcycle Tires, Wheels, and Brakes Discuss issues with Sportster motorcycle tires, wheels and brakes.

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  #1  
Old 14th November 2019
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RDHenley RDHenley is offline
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Default To Lace or Not to Lace, or While We're Doing This...

I know this has probably been asked and answered, but with my ADD when I hit the search if what I need doesn't show up in the first three entries, I wind up reading about some bike buildup from 12 years ago or getting lost in the suspension thread, and the next thing is it's 6 am and the wife is upset because I didn't make it to bed and tomorrow without sleep becomes a long day.

So what started as new brakes and rear tire on my 05 883C has turned into "while we're doing this"...
Since the better half is the eBay queen, I now have a growing pile of new parts in the garage waiting for installation that includes front and rear V-twin power sintered pads and mesh rotors, Road King shocks, lowering blocks, MT66 rear tire, tube, and while we're doing this, lets get rid of that ugly aluminum abomination HD stuck on the back of the Customs and do a lace wheel to match the front.

So I ask the better half to look on eBay to see if she can find a FSM because sooner or later I'm gonna need one, and the next thing I get a call saying she scored the FSM the rear wheel for $100. When I get home last night to see the wheel, I'm pretty happy with the hub and spokes, both seem near perfect, and the bearings seem good. But, there's some pretty good pitting in the rim, and it's a profile wheel so it doesn't exactly match the front.

So she's looking on eBay to see if she can find a profile rim for the front to match it, and instead she comes across a 16x3 rim with no spokes or hub and according to all I can find, 43085-97 is the correct part number for rim I want.

So what I'm trying to confirm is, did the profile and regular 40 spoke lace wheels use the same hub and spokes? If so, it seems like even with the cost of paying to have it trued up after I relace the new rim onto the hub I'll still be money ahead.

Or if not, does anyone have an idea of what spokes I need to get if I want to put the profile hub on that rim?
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  #2  
Old 15th November 2019
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http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/rims.asp

will get answers here
if you lace it yourself, suggest getting the nipple wrenches
as far as truing it, easy to do if you have two dial indicators and a vise and a section of all thread and nuts
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Old 15th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
http://www.buchananspokes.com/categories/rims.asp

will get answers here
if you lace it yourself, suggest getting the nipple wrenches
as far as truing it, easy to do if you have two dial indicators and a vise and a section of all thread and nuts
Thanks for the link, I'll look through it and see what I can learn.

Years ago I rebuilt and trued the rear wheel on my KZ400. I just mounted it in the swingarm and used clamps to hold feeler gauges for side to side and a 4x4 to check round. Took me a few days and a couple bottles of whiskey to get it done. I enjoyed the lacing part, but for the truing I think one of the shops in town will get that job.
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Old 15th November 2019
Tomcatt Tomcatt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bustert View Post
if you lace it yourself, suggest getting the nipple wrenches
A 4" crescent wrench works better. You can adjust it to actually fit the nipples tightly which "nipple wrenches" never do.

Edit: Let me add a bit more. I laced and trued the wheels in the shops I worked in. It's something that's now almost a lost art.

Paint the spoke threads with anti-seize after running them thru the hub.

Start the nipples by going around the rim and tightening them all something like 5 turns. Repeat in smaller increments 'til the rim starts to stay in place and not flop around.

Put the wheel somewhere you can spin it on its' axle. Mounted in the forks or swingarm works, I have a fixture I built that will locate dial indicators easily.

Spin the wheel while holding a "sharpie" to mark the high spots both radial and axially. "High" spots will touch the sharpie as the wheel rotates. You start there.

After getting it pretty "straight", down to ~ 1/8", switch to dial indicators. You can do this with one, but it goes quicker with two. One set to read radial run out and one for axial.

The indicators will also show the usual "glitch" where it's welded.

Use a 4" crescent to adjust. What "nipple wrenches" do best is deform the nipples.

The learning process will drive you nuts. After a while it gets easy. I liked lacing and truing. The old flanged Akront and Borrani rims could be trued down to +/- .002" with a .010" glitch at the weld. They looked really good.
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Last edited by Tomcatt; 15th November 2019 at 18:44..
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Old 15th November 2019
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It looks like the nipples are built to use an allen wrench on the end. That will probably be easiest for the initial work, but won't work once the tire is mounted.

I found a Harley video on YouTube about lacing and truing, it has some info that makes it seem a lot easier.

https://youtu.be/myxagLY_mDg
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Old 15th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDHenley View Post
It looks like the nipples are built to use an allen wrench on the end.
You use a straight blade screwdriver on the end of the nipple, which will be under the rim strip when you're done. I use a screw driver to run around the rim to do initial tightening. It goes much easier. As soon as "enough" spokes snug up using the screwdriver you transition to a wrench.

I don't do the "spin the nipples on with your fingers". I run around the rim with a screwdriver counting turns. You get a better starting point.
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Old 15th November 2019
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These don't have a screwdriver slot like most I've seen, but an allen wrench would be handy to count the turns too.
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Old 15th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RDHenley View Post
These don't have a screwdriver slot like most I've seen, but an allen wrench would be handy to count the turns too.
You have spoke nipples that take an allen wrench? All the wheels I've done had spoke nipples that were threaded in that area (the rim strip end) and had a screwdriver slot. You can see that in the video you linked.

If they do take an allen wrench you certainly could count turns just like with a screwdriver.
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Old 15th November 2019
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I'm a big fan of laced wheels. I'd be doing the rear wheel if it wasn't so costly. The rear gets torqued alot too.
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Originally Posted by 60Gunner View Post
I'm a big fan of laced wheels. I'd be doing the rear wheel if it wasn't so costly. The rear gets torqued alot too.
They are expensive. The local dealer quoted me over $600 for new. JP wants over $400 depending on which aftermarket you go with. Even on eBay the price is $250 or more, and most of the cheaper ones are pretty ragged.

The better half's eBay skills I'm going to be into this for less than $200 unless I find some bad spokes when I pull the profile wheel apart, because she just scored the rim for less than $50.
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