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  #1  
Old 27th December 2018
evanc evanc is offline
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Default mechanical regulator vs. solid state voltage regulator

Hey guys.
I believe my 79 sporty has some charging issues involving the voltage regulator. On the bike was a mechanical bosche voltage regulator... (dont have part # but can update with # and pictures) from the regulator there were the field and armature wires going to the generator, also from the regulator were the wires connected to the wiring harness. I ordered a new regulator, I ordered an accel solid state regulator with the plug e style plug, with the two socket and one pin (will update with pictures).
My question for you guys is, how do I wire the regulator to the generator and the wiring harness. The harness was split all over the place. Should I buy the connecting plug for the regulator? and install it to the harness. or should I return this reg, and order a mechanical reg and wire exactly how it was?

My thoughts are leaning towards returning the accel and ordering a mechanical.

Also if anyone could lead me to a voltage reg test sticky, to see if that was even the problem to begin with.

In the meantime Ill try to reinstall old reg, and do some more research


Thanks guys! hopefully get this bike back on the road before spring.
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  #2  
Old 27th December 2018
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accel makes a solid state regulator that doesn't have the plug, but just the three wires - field, armature and battery - and they are colored appropriately. that would be a better fit for what you need, i think. have you checked the brushes or the armature inside the generator yet? check these threads out...
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1718208
and
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=589224
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Old 27th December 2018
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The 1978 thru 1981 Sportsters came regulator 74504-78 which has the mate plug for the wire harness connector. Like doodah man says, you can get the same regulator from ACCEL with colored wires, no connector.

Note that the regulator for 1982-on [alternator models] has three black wires, looks otherwise identical, but is not correct for 78-81.
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  #4  
Old 28th December 2018
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Default

Thanks for the input.

Ive been searching the web for the reg without the connector, hopefully find something here soon...

When I head back to the shop Ill check out the generators condition.

I had the starter pulled and checked the condition of it, It was pretty worn and dirty
The brushes were a bit chewed up as well. So that might be a rebuild.

Will clean both those and bench test them to see where were at.

Got to order some parts and ill update with more progress!
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Old 29th December 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evanc View Post
... When I head back to the shop Ill check out the generators condition.

I had the starter pulled and checked the condition of it, It was pretty worn and dirty The brushes were a bit chewed up as well. So that might be a rebuild...
Ironhead Refurbish Starter Motor
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1718915

Ironhead Generator Refurbish
http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=1718208
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Old 29th December 2018
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Testing of the Reg just put a volt meter on wiring to battery and see what voltage is going to battery.Some people try to adjust them. I have a 74 XLCH I bought new with the same old Bosch reg still kicking butt and I still trust it.
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Old 30th December 2018
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The only regulator I recommend is the end cover unit from Cycle Electric.

It has a sensor that turns down the generator as it gets hot to protect it from overheating.
No other regulator I know of does that.
Also simplifies wiring.

CE-500 http://cycleelectricinc.com
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Old 10th March 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
The only regulator I recommend is the end cover unit from Cycle Electric.

It has a sensor that turns down the generator as it gets hot to protect it from overheating.
No other regulator I know of does that.
Also simplifies wiring.

CE-500 http://cycleelectricinc.com
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Old 10th March 2019
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some of that is hype.
if you read, its main design was integral reg/gen and in this combo, the regulator picks up case heat as well as electrical current heat. truth told, the old mechanical units did the same via magnetic field strength which the electronic cannot use so it uses a temp sensor that cuts back the bias on the regulating semi-conductors.
electronic is the way to go though and since the diodes are one way valves (so to speak) flashing is seldom necessary.
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Old 11th March 2019
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Mechanicals have been working since the beginning and will continue to work with minor maintenance, Electronic units do function but the only test you have is output, and ALL regulators must be grounded to work properly. XLCH`s with the small bettery used the Bosch , XLH`s with the large battery used the Delco ones
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