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  #901  
Old 7th December 2019
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Dangit, I got lost somewhere.....
I see from slack tube testing that the pressure can be manipulated.
Just not sure where you're going.
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  #902  
Old 8th December 2019
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not going any where, just a little think & see
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  #903  
Old 8th December 2019
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Never mind
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  #904  
Old 8th December 2019
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I got to be honest, I've never studied auto PCVs that much.
I've always known the flow path... and how to remove the intake air from the A/C..
But I believe I have an old one to cut open...

I made this drawing for posterity of my SBC general breathing path.
It does require vacuum to operate properly but as I mentioned, positive pressure will find it's way out with the vacuum removed.
So it's not definitely not sealed.

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  #905  
Old 9th December 2019
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the spring in most pcv valves are there only to prevent cross ventilation when the engine is down. this can cause condensation as the engine cools.
while vac does pull it up, if the pressure rises too far or as rpm increases and exceeds capacity, the c/c vent backs to the air cleaner.
soooo, if your filter gets oily, sign that the system is max'd out, aka, not working.
as a side note: the books used to say shake the valve and if it rattles, it's ok.
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  #906  
Old 9th December 2019
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At one point or another, I was trying to stop the oil from going into my A/C.
I realized the oil was going the wrong way and was trying to see if there was debris on the bottom of the PCV that may be obstructing the flow.
Sucking on the inlet told me there wasn't.
Shaking the PCV revealed that it was sufficient according to the book.
Then I came to realize after several vehicles doing the same thing that blowby as it gets older will always increase.
This causes the oil flow to reverse and land in the A/C anyway like you said.
I'm always saying that I'm usually the last owner of everything I own anyway.
I'll drive it til it drops.
So I just started cutting to the chase and removing the line to A/C from the getgo.
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  #907  
Old 9th December 2019
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Still pretty much stands if it rattles, it's ok. Just check my dad's today in fact.
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  #908  
Old 19th December 2019
needspeed needspeed is offline
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Default corrections

Quote:
Originally Posted by kitabel View Post
Some pump gear data:
The pitch distance of 14 & 16 tooth pumps is not the same.
All driven and idler gears have .422" ID center holes
14 tooth gears (1952-61) are .970" OD
All feed gears are .217" thick
All return gears are .360" thick
16 tooth gears (1962-76, also all 45 & UL return pumps) are 1.115" OD
1962-71 feed are .185" thick
1962-71 return .375" thick
1972-76 return .398" thick
45 & UL 1937-73 return .315" thick

Inspect your spares and purchases carefully - 1936-* OHV BT gears are 14 tooth, but .990" OD and only the driven gears have .422" ID hole (the idlers are .342")


There are some inaccuracies in this information. Kudos to Kitabel for putting this up and I'm sure he wants it to be correct. And because it's been put on Sportsterpedia that's another reason to make sure it's right. I'm only looking at the sportster parts. (By the way some of this info contradicts info already in sportsterpedia.)

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14 tooth gears (1952-61) are .970" OD
14 tooth gears (late '62 to '71 ) are .990 OD


All feed gears are .217" thick
All 14 tooth feed gears are .216 thick


All return gears are .360" thick
Certainly not all of them. Possibly the 16 tooth return gears prior to '62?


16 tooth gears (1962-76, also all 45 & UL return pumps) are 1.115" OD
16 tooth gears ('52 to early '62) and ('72 to '76) are 1.115" OD

1962-71 feed are .185" thick
('54 to early '62) and ('72 to '76) are .185 thick


1962-71 return .375" thick
1972-76 return .398" thick
45 & UL 1937-73 return .315" thick

Inspect your spares and purchases carefully - 1936-* OHV BT gears are 14 tooth, but .990" OD and only the driven gears have .422" ID hole (the idlers are .342")
_______________________________________________
corrections welcome.
I make these changes based on what's in the parts book, 2 pumps that I have to measure (a '68 and a '74) and pump info in the sportsterpedia originally posted by forum member Dr. Dick.



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  #909  
Old 19th December 2019
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I parked that information on the main IH pump til I could merge it in with the info in the parts section.
I should have waited and went thru it.

Yes, thank you both for the information.
Vetting the information there is most important as the information needs to be correct for anyone needed it.
I'm working on it now.
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  #910  
Old 19th December 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitabel View Post
Never mind
I'm sorry you decided to take your ball and go home.
I haven't accused anybody of being wrong.
Frankly, I don't have one of these pumps yet. I missed an opportunity buy one a couple years ago.
Financially, I had a choice between a 69 and the final gerotor pump I needed.

I removed that part from the main page temporarily so I could bring all the word data into the main page to unconfused me.
I'm now merging that information into the different year model pumps as it should be.

No harm intended to you.
I think we can all agree the info needs to be correct and vetting is certainly a good way to do that.
I will question everything there even when I put it there.
Doesn't mean I think differently of anybody.

As DD put it "With the correct knowledge any 57-76 pump, or parts of them can be mated to any 57-76 cases. But the combos can get confusing".

That's all I trying to get.....

Last edited by Hippysmack; 19th December 2019 at 07:37..
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