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  #11  
Old 24th August 2021
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Gulf Coaster Gulf Coaster is offline
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Default Lessons Learned

Thanks. I appreciate all the effort. Speaking of effort, do you know what happens when you remove the tranny cover without taking the timing cup off? I do... I couldn't believe it. I pulled the cover off and three of the cam gears came with it. To put them back on, I have to relieve the pressure off of the push rods to get the cams under them. I was able to do that for the front two by removing the valve cover and loosening the bolts holding the tappet assemblies. On my bike, the frame is too close over top of the rear valve cover to get it off. I'm going to have to drop the engine to try to get enough room. If that doesn't work, I fear I'll have to pull the engine out of the frame. So... another lesson learned, today. Hopefully, the next lesson won't be what happens when you get the cams timed wrong. Pretty sure I've got that one down, based on the shop manual and an excellent video. The adventure continues!
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  #12  
Old 24th August 2021
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Hippysmack Hippysmack is offline
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Default

That's the cam cover and yes, I do.
You really need to follow that Factory Service Manual.
Before taking the cover off, you should have removed the rocker boxes.
This takes valve spring pressure off the cam bushings as you now know.
Failure to do so can put the camshafts at an angle, gouging the cam bushings in the case and possible either spinning them or weakening their press fit.
The cams can still come out with the cover with the rockers off.
You can use a screwdriver inserted to carefully nudge the cams inward while removing the cover.
But it's not hard at all to retime the cams.
The rear rocker cover comes off, then the middle section, then the lower section.
See these links in e pedia:
Installing Evo Cams
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...evo:engmech02a
Removing the rocker boxes
http://www.sportsterpedia.com/doku.p...evo:engmech04a

With the proper sequence, engine doesn't have to move to install the boxes.
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In Search of Fuel, Sunshine and a Steady Idle.

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  #13  
Old 24th August 2021
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Gulf Coaster Gulf Coaster is offline
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Default

Yeah, I know it isn't supposed to be hard to remove the rocker boxes (it certainly isn't on my '82 Ironhead), but with this bike, I have an aftermarket weld on hard tail that puts the top frame rail, only about 3/8"above the rear rocker box. There isn't quite enough clearance to remove the cover to get at the bolts to remove the middle section, etc. Poor design. I'll muck about with it and eventually get it done.
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  #14  
Old 24th August 2021
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Default

Always something isn't it?
So you had to assemble the engine just to get it in the frame then?

Chopping down an Allen won't work?
I use short sockets and a swivel on the lower box bolts.



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  #15  
Old 25th August 2021
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Default Over pressure

Experiencing an over pressure issue. All pressure lines in place and umbrella valves installed but have to much pressure in the front rocker box. Oil pushing up and out along front right rocker cover bolt. All started when valve spring failed and ripped out valve seal (wrong parts installed by shop). All parts replaced but now this over pressure issue. Leak down test fails on front cylinder but shop insists head is good. All new gaskets and have good bypass pressure matching from front and rear head. Good oil pressure and engine is strong and smooth but oil just climbs up the front right rocker box bolt. Any suggestions as to cause? No smoke out of the exhaust.
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  #16  
Old 25th August 2021
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Default

Hi Bobby, if you can start a new thread just for the issue, I'm sure someone will be able to help with that.
First thing comes to mind is the washer under the screw isn't sealing.
There are two washers required on each screw for the cover.
One is pressed onto the screw and the other is a fiber washer then the screw is installed.
If the fiber is worn/cracked/missing it'll leak there.
Aftermarket kits have copper washers included so fiber or copper will work.

There is always pressure both negative and positive in the boxes, crankcase, cam case and oil tank.... normal.
You just can't have a leak or the pressure gets worse.
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  #17  
Old 25th August 2021
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Default

Ok I will. Just to respond the washers are good and it just doesn’t leak a bit. It paints the entire head, tank and coil in about 1 mile. Real excess pressure that did not exist before the head valve seal failure.
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  #18  
Old 25th August 2021
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Gulf Coaster Gulf Coaster is offline
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Default

Unfortunately, the issue isn't getting access to the bolts, that is no problem. The bolts are out, but the cover doesn't clear the rockers and so forth underneath. There is literally 1/8" between the top of the rocker cover and the frame backbone. We rocked the engine into place, and that is probably what I'm going to have to do to get access to the rocker box; tilt the engine out from under the frame. Not very practical, but then, it's a chopper. Not born to be practical. Right now I'm supporting the engine as I pull the mounting bolts out. Then I'll see if I can drop it a half an inch. That's all I need. Then I can loosen the rockers, push up the one push rod and get the last cam in place. Hopefully, at some point before I get it back together, I'll remember to hook up that vent line!
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  #19  
Old 25th August 2021
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Default

Hahahahahaha,
It's never easy going against the grain but always rewarding.... eventually.
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  #20  
Old 25th August 2021
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Gulf Coaster Gulf Coaster is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XLH Ironhead 1000 bobber
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Sportster/Buell Year #2: 2003
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Default

Here is the problem I am facing. Just not enough room to slide the rocker box top off. If I can drop the engine just half an inch, it should be fine.

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