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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
argos587 argos587 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL 1200 (883 conversion)
Sportster/Buell Year: 1994
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Default 1994 XL Misfire

Have 1994 XL that has a misfire mostly while at cruising speed of 50mph and below. Regardless of gear. The misfire creates a hamoneous vibration and feel similar to rev limiters. Idling, accelerating and starting are all good. Much less noticable when engine is hot. Replaced ignition coil, wires, plugs and ignition pickup (sensor from cam timing). Checked ignition power and grounds and vacuum leaks.
Have Screaming Eagle ignition module, Kehin carb and Kuryakin hyper charger.
Not sure if this is electrical, but seems to act that way.
This started after replacing the head gaskets. Any ideas?
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What SE Ignition Module do you have?
What Plugs?
What Brand/Model of coil?

What carb jets?
Did you set the Idle Mixture Screw with Idle Drop Method?
(Carb operation for cruising is very similar to idle)

Did you set your timing? At what starting advance (@1000rpm)?
(ETA - Correct rpm is 1650-1950)

Did you check your plugs (Hold throttle, then clutch & chop Run/Stop, coast to roadside, then let up on throttle, check plug burn color)?

Did you check for Intake Air Leaks with an unlit propane torch?

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Ignition Module: 32420-94 1200-K, 8000 RPM, 9521 REV
Plugs: Champion RA8HC (front clean, rear black/dirty running rich)
Coil: Twin Power 210527
Checked vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner
Checked timing at about 1700 RPM aligning the marks (as described in the repair manual)

Also just for clarification, there were no issues until replacing the head gaskets due to a blown head gasket (replaced all related gaskets from removing complete top end). It is a daily ride, not just weekends.
Have had the ignition module and Hyper Charger since 2000. Upgrade to 1200 about 2010 (adjusted carb as directed by Kuryakin instructions for 1200).
Not sure of main jet size (will need to open the carb), but the low and middle jets are stock. Did not adjust idle or air mixture after head gasket repair.
After head gasket repair, replaced coil, wires and plugs, no change to misfire.
Then replaced ignition pick up sensor, no change to misfire.
Did notice there was significant improvement (far less misfire) on the way home from work, outside temp was 95. Seems temp is a factor. Maybe carb related?
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If the stock Slow-Speed jet is still in the carb, it is likely a 42 jet - For a 1200, I much prefer a 45 slow jet and you definitely need to remove the cap on the IMS (Idle Mixture Screw) to be able to properly set the idle...

I see you mentioned adjusting the carb based on Kuryakin instructions - Do you remember what that involved? Sometimes, aftermarket parts mfr advice is not the best...


When you have a disparity in spark plug burn - it is almost always an air leak in the manifold seal for the cylinder with the leaner burn...

Don't use carb cleaner - use an unlit propane torch - it is more reliable at catching leaks - check right around the manifold-to-head junction... Did you change those seals when you had the heads off?

What happens is that the carb is set to burn right on the cylinder with the leak - but that makes the other cylinder (with a lesser or no leak) too rich and you get the black dirty plug...

Just as a suggestion, the K-curve ignition module is not as good as the Q-curve module - and I would personally not run an 8000-rpm-limit that allows 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears to over-rev the engine - just my point of view...

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Thanks for the input. I did adjust the idle mixture back in 2000 when the hyper charger was first installed. Will looknin the cab to get jet numbers and write them down for the future. Also, looked up the idle drop method you mentioned and plan to adjust that way as well; plus the unlit torch check for vacuum leak.
Work schedule is currently hectic so may be a few days, will post progress or final repair as they happen.
The hyper charger instructions include adjusting the idle mixture, main jet, and slide. Don’t remember about the slow jet (but those numbers sound familiar).
Appreciate your input.
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What EXACTLY did the Kuryakin instructions say about modifying the slide? - Because drilling the vacuum hole can make getting a proper tune (for all around riding) more difficult... (I know it was widely recommended and supposed to help with a quicker throttle response, but further experience says it's not a good modification for all ranges of engine operation)

Yes - I know you said the bike was running fine before...


Sportsterpedia - Getting Ready to Tune Your CV40 Carb

CV Carb Transfer Ports & Tuning

VOES - Its Operation & Adjustment


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I could not find the instructions, however I did inspect the carb and other things.
Slow jet was damaged on top upon removal, so do not know the size. The hole in the slide was drilled. Before this, I did the vacuum leak test with the unlit torch, no leaks.
Believe I found the issue though. Removed the intake to inspect the new seals, noticed the intake port for the rear cylinder was black and shiny while the front intake port is clean. Think the intake valve seal is leaking causing oil to leak into the rear cylinder.
When I replace the valve seals, do I need the replace the cylinder base gaskets along with the head gaskets? What is you opinion on reusing the head bols nuts?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by argos587 View Post
Slow jet was damaged on top upon removal, so do not know the size. The hole in the slide was drilled.
Did you check to see if the main jet & emulsion tube were Dynojet parts (the SP has info to check that)? Diaphragm spring changed?

I would definitely get a 45 slow jet for a 1200 engine...

Also check to see that the idle mixture screw (IMS) o-ring is in good shape - and be sure the parts (called IMS packing) are assembled in the right way (see SP)... If you were careful in previously setting the IMS, the Idle Port opening should be smooth & flush with the rest of the exiting venturi on the carb... If seated too tight, the Idle Port will 'pucker' up into the carb venturi and make the idle adjustment difficult because of the enlarged hole...


Quote:
Originally Posted by argos587 View Post
Believe I found the issue though. Removed the intake to inspect the new seals, noticed the intake port for the rear cylinder was black and shiny while the front intake port is clean. Think the intake valve seal is leaking causing oil to leak into the rear cylinder.

When I replace the valve seals, do I need the replace the cylinder base gaskets along with the head gaskets? What is you opinion on reusing the head bols nuts?
I haven't done this before - so here's some basic advice...

The cylinder base gasket, if previously not leaking, should not need replaced if you carefully remove the head without disturbing the cylinder...

I assume you replaced the head gaskets previously - so you know to gradually loosen - and later gradually tighten - the head screws to prevent distorting the assembly with uneven pressures...

The manual doesn't call for replacing the head screws each time - so use your best judgement as to whether they may be an issue - If thoroughly cleaned & appear in good condition, I don't see a reason to replace them..
http://xlforum.net/forums/showpost.p...16&postcount=4

And here's some google searchs on the XLForum that might have threads of interest:
https://www.google.com/search?q=site...ce+valve+seals
https://www.google.com/search?q=site...er+head+gasket
https://www.google.com/search?q=site...er+base+gasket

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