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  #21  
Old 3 Days Ago
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Ok.....seems to be narrowing down to vacuum or carb....I would have to remove a few things to see the backside of carb and lines.

I was looking again tonight...for vacuum lines...starting fluid didnt get sucked into anything around the intake or back of carb.

Also sounding like a carb issue now....but second time I started it (couple hours later)...it was immediate...started easily.First time today was a backfire.

Will keep at it until something shows up....

Thanks!
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  #22  
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Yet another update...was having garage beers and its been a week of starting the bike...poking and proding at it.
I decided to pull the plugs again.

Now...front plug is tan....back plug is black?
Was...front plug white....back plug tan.

I will have to think about this and go over recommendations earlier on in this thread...if it was the carb...both plugs would be the same correct?...or a vacuum leak for that matter.
Ive sprayed it twice at the intake....nothing.

At least its a clue....now back to my garage beers.

Later
Murph
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  #23  
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Run a compression test in between beers. That's easier than seeing if your carb is crudded up from sitting.
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  #24  
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Isn't a backfire from unburned fuel igniting in the exhaust? Maybe the high idle is from extra gas leaking in somewhere? I keep mine on reserve all the time to avoid any water buildup and keep an eye on the odometer.
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  #25  
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I agree with Tomcatt here - It's always a good idea to have reference compression readings for which to refer to later. Do you have any previous readings to tell if they changed significantly?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Murph View Post
The coil came in at 5.8 ohms...give or take. Its a 3 post coil...not sure what it indicates....center post is marked with a positive +
That sounds like a Single-Fire coil. It has a separate trigger wire for each cylinder. Measure the resistance from the PLUS-Contact to each of the other coil trigger contacts. The resistance value (ohms) should be very close to the same.

If the trigger wires to the coil can easily be disconnected separately, you could swap the trigger wires _AND_ swap the plug wires (in the towers) to cause the coil to switch which internal coil is firing which cylinder.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Murph View Post
I decided to pull the plugs again.
Now...front plug is tan....back plug is black?
Was...front plug white....back plug tan.
The whiter plug would be the one with the air leak. You should look for the air leak, because the two plugs should burn very similar in color.

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on the Intake Manifold. You need to check for air leaks between the manifold & the HEADS - not at the carb. Unless you created some custom intake manifold, all three port holes should have rubber seals.
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb03
and see http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:evo:carb03a

You should also check for an exhaust leak on the cylinder with the whiter burning plug (you asked about this earlier - Did you check it?).

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  #26  
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Ok...lets see if I can cover everything.

Compression....
Top end was rebuilt about 500 miles ago....has had no indication of issues...no smoke or anything else....plugs were good before this incident( going to reserve and switching to high octane fuel)...and it ran good in March and April....I have no compression tester.
I can tell easily on my Ironhead the rear cylinder is low..you can hear it in the exhaust...feel it putting hand behind the pipe...plus it smokes out that pipe a little...but thats another story.

Intake....
I sprayed it down two separate times to be sure...at the heads.

Carb and vacuum leak....
If it were one of these....wouldnt both cylinders be affected?

Coil....
I can reach the coil no problem....would switching plug wires only at the coil first be recommended to rule out plug wires?...I wasnt sure I had the right coil for that test...now I know.

Exhaust....I did not test the exhaust for leaks...can I spray that also?...seems hot pipe might be questionable to spray. If its the rear plug now being fouled..would it make sense?

Right now...If I were starting over...the symptoms would be running rough...and fouled rear plug.

One more thing ...might be a clue...or make things more muddy....
I added oil right around when this started...wouldnt read on the dip stick....then it leaked some out the overflow/breather tube onto the ground....not much...but I never had that before....overfilled slightly?. This happened only once

Im looking at changing plugs also.......

Thanks Guys....
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  #27  
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Finally something shows itself.....battery is toast. It started once..shut it off. Went to start it again....nothing....just clicks.
Charger wont even try to charge it.....
Would that explain it running crappy?
I read another post about someone with the exact same symptoms...went through everything and it ended up being the battery.....will see soon enough!
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  #28  
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When you're having issues with the electrical system, use this Sportsterpedia section about
checking the battery cables, voltages and grounds - DO THIS AS MAINTENACE, TOO:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...place_to_start


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  #29  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Murph View Post
Finally something shows itself.....battery is toast...
Charger wont even try to charge it.....
Would that explain it running crappy?
Yes it could.
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  #30  
Old 2 Hours Ago
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Get the good Harley D battery.
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