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  #51  
Old 3rd September 2019
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168 miles later and can anyone tell me what's wrong in this picture?

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  #52  
Old 3rd September 2019
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I see a broken ring and maybe valve collets missing?
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  #53  
Old 3rd September 2019
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Any cylinder damage?
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  #54  
Old 3rd September 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harley506d View Post
I see a broken ring and maybe valve collets missing?
Survey says "broken ring" is the number 1 answer. No missing collets. It's all there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XL Ed View Post
Any cylinder damage?
Cylinder is scuffed up pretty good. Piston scuffed pretty good from the steel shavings. The oil I drained (HD 20-50) was pewter gray with speckles. If it were paint it would be a nice color to spray on.

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Last edited by Crash7557; 3rd September 2019 at 21:56..
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  #55  
Old 3rd September 2019
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So the bike had a dead spot 3/4 to full throttle that would improve when I rolled off the throttle slightly. Symptom of rich. Bogged with the 200 main jet. Bought the three smaller consecutive jets (195,190,185) for tuning. On the ride from a few weeks ago where I was pictured parked with a red 883 was done with 200 jet. Installed the 190 jet and the power up in the range was improved as in it did not bog but instead the acceleration was flat from 3/4 to full and I did a highway pull for miles at 65mph and around town for approximately 40 miles total.
I believe I got greedy and ran too lean. I changed to the 185 jet to see any improvement. Rode 7 miles home on a cooled down motor. No issues seen. Next day started to ride the same route I did the first time. 15 miles in the bike bogged, came back, bogged, then wouldn't stay running. Stopped it and the kicker wouldn't move the crank to start it. The valved breather blew apart and on top of the bike and the insides were blown out (I found them on the road and wedged in the frame) oil was on top the motor.
When I got it home I let it cool down over night expecting a full seizure. Disassembled and found the piston not seized but the connecting rod WAS seized in position with the crank assembly. I got it moving barely but it it quite apparent that the iron shavings have done their damage to the bearings. Tons of play both side to side and back and forth with the connecting rod and who knows where else. Not a simple fix and I'm not an engine builder so I'm going to leave it to a professional. I'll let you all know what happens for those still interested in this funny little italian one lung's story.

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Last edited by Crash7557; 3rd September 2019 at 21:53..
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  #56  
Old 4th September 2019
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yea, it's all apart
i know if you can tear it down to that level, the rest is a snap for you. if it is a pressed crank, easy-peasy.
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  #57  
Old 25th October 2019
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Good luck. I Came in to some money and started shopping around for a crank rebuild and bottom end work on my SX350 and determined that for the same $$ I could buy another ironhead. So I did. Back in to crates my Sprint goes and maybe in another 10 years I can take it out and try again.
Sad thing is, most of the old-timers that still work on these all know one another and they all know what they each charge for work, so all the quotes I got were just about the same, but hey maybe call this guy in Illinois and see what he can do for you..
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  #58  
Old 29th October 2019
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there are plenty of cranks out there (fleabay has many)
i would suspect the damage to be mostly at the rod pin
the crank is pressed and can easily be taken apart and repaired, done many rice machines. easier to align than a sportster crank.
would be a shame to box her up.
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  #59  
Old 13th May 2020
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Update time:

I boxed up the motor and sent it to Cycle Products to be the recipient of a total overhaul. Talking with the builder he stated that this would include NOS crank, internals, piston, bearings, seals, transmission pieces, clutch parts, top end parts, valves, and machining. Basically what I would be getting back would be a completely new engine (mile zero) inside the old case halves. I was quoted $2500 for the whole job.

I received the engine back in the beginning of April. Aside from UPS dropping the box and breaking the aluminum side cover (which I was able to braze together using alumiweld rods from harbor freight) the engine was beautiful. He even upgraded my order by mirror polishing the engine covers, media blasting the head, cylinder, rocker cover, and installed all stainless hardware. I was able to mount the engine and reinstall all the internal ignition parts and connections.
The builder's recommendation for me was to use Valvoline 20w50 high zinc racing oil (VR1) for break in and changing it initially after 3 heat cycles then maintain it at the intervals in the service manual which next would be at 300 miles and then 1000 miles. He recommended oil for summer use after breaking in to be straight 50w high zinc mineral oil

Here you can watch the first heat cycle. Zero changes were made to the carburetor tuning. This is how it ran directly from the box. Compression is noticeably higher on kickstart and exhaust note.

https://youtu.be/wNtUYdQm1_o

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  #60  
Old 27th May 2020
Bigshankhank Bigshankhank is offline
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Did they upgrade to a 5-speed transmission? I priced several shops (Including Cycle Products, its a relatively small world of shops that work on these bikes) to rebuild my SX350 and most of them recommended it for trans durability.
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