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Old 23rd December 2008
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Huladog Huladog is offline
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Default Installation using Diagnostic Connector

It makes for a very stealthy installation and you don't have to unbolt your headlight, split open wiring bundles and splice using the included connectors.

You DO have to splice in some additional wire to reach the Diagnostic Connector under the left side cover. Stop by your local auto parts or hardware store for some 18 gauge "primary wire", you'll have plenty leftover for other wiring projects.

Used the "DT06-4S-Assy" (Stamped Sockets, Nickel, 16-18 AWG $5.53) from Batts Racing (nice folks, good service, they have tutorials on their site showing how to hookup the wires into the pins then insert into the connector).

Look for the installation instructions on the microTach site where it was installed on a Softail, same idea for the Sportster, look for page 2 with the color codes/pin numbers so you correctly hookup your connector. You don't need any special tools, just work carefully with a needle nose plier to crimp the connectors and you can solder just to be safe.

Important Note: attach the connector to your wiring bundle AFTER you route the wiring all the way to the area under the left side cover.

I slipped the included loose weave wiring sheath over the end portions of the wiring bundle so where it was visible so it would look like the factory wiring bundles. Cut the loose weave wiring sheath into two pieces, use the included shrink wrap on the ends to keep it from unraveling along with some vinyl electrical tape to wrap it up.

Spiral wrapped the wiring bundle with vinyl electrical tape where the tank would hide it. I use a large nylon zip tie (cable tie) taped to the end of the wiring bundle to "fish" it through holes and under the tank, no need to unbolt the tank.

If you haven't done it yet, this is the perfect time to rig up something to keep your side cover from ever leaving your bike unexpectedly. The top (on my 09) still just pops out, the bottom is held in place to let you lay the cover open like a hinge.

Take the black rubber plug out of the Diagnostic Connector (it keeps it clean and dry), plug in your newly wired connector, turn on the ignition and if you the tach lights up you're good to go!








Aloha,
Huladog

Last edited by Huladog; 2nd January 2009 at 03:29.. Reason: Added images
  #2  
Old 23rd December 2008
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Default

Question for you. The pins have a long side and short side. Which one gets the wire?
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Old 23rd December 2008
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Default

Here's the "how to" page at Batts Racing on the connectors.

When you get the connector they send you the parts in a small plastic bag, the pins are pretty simple to figure out even for me. The stripped wire gets inserted into the "open" end with the two open crimp "prongs". I got carried away and stripped too much bare wire so the insides of the pins were kind of full of wire. Once you insert the bare wire into the inside of the pins you carefully close the crimps with pliers (or a crimping tool if you've got one, I have one and can't use it correctly). Then I soldered a bit of the bare wire I left exposed between the crimp and the hollow pin.

Now that I think about it you could probably just insert stripped wire and crimp right onto that bare wire (electrical experts please jump in).

When you have the three pins assembled then you slide them into the connector through the orange rubber and you keep pushing until you feel the pins "snap" into place. At first you'll think there is no way the pins and fat wires will go through the tiny holes in the orange rubber but they will, just take your time and push the wire carefully. You can check your progress on the open end of the connector, when the pins reach all the way to the end of the connector, you're done.

Don't forget to slide the orange plastic locking wedge into the open end of the connector to hold the pins in place.

Aloha,
Huladog

Last edited by Huladog; 2nd January 2009 at 03:43.. Reason: Fixed web link.
 

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