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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #11  
Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
RocketmanGB sell those in a kit plus they are SS.
I was going to mention this too. George has then already in kits for the entire carburetor. I have them in bins and don't even try to separate them into kits, I just use what I need as I go. Whenever either of us works on a CV40, we replace all the screws.

Just a note for any of the locktite maniacs out there, do not use locktite on the carb screws. It took me a few hours to get all the screws out of one carburetor a few years back. I cut slots in most of them to get a flat screw driver on them. Some actually did come free with the usual tools. Some I had to cut the heads off and run them all the way through out the back side, but eventually I got them all out.

Too many people think that locktite should be used on everything on the bike. Nonsense, just tighten them correctly and do some maintenance now and then and you will be just fine.
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  #12  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IXL2Relax View Post
Early parts diagrams (86-94) show bolts with washers on all the carb covers - although the washers are not listed separate from the bolts & it appears that the actual bolts that match the designated part numbers did/does not come with washers.

The Slide Diaphragm Cover got shoulder bolts for 1995 which included a built-in washer at the top. And at the same time, the washers disappeared from the diagram for the Float Bowl/Cover.

The Accelerator Pump Cover diagram shows washers right up thru 2006.

The real question is not what was stock? - but whether it is a good idea to use washers on those bolts? - My answer would be yes. A broader distribution of the torque is a good thing.

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I agree with this especially in the principal of using what is best rather than following along blindly with what it had or what a manual tells you was used. That said, the little cap screws that some of use are nice and wide and the screw cap is about as good as a washer would be so it's a win/win. Sticking a washer under them is still fine and why not? Maintaining a broader distribution of torque is also a something that shouldn't be overlooked as mentioned. An example of that is for the screws holding a sheet metal oil pan or valve covers on a car engine. Washers spread out the clamping pressure and make it more difficult to bend the cover flange and pinch the gaskets everywhere there is a screw.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLHRLpaL1-E

the washer is just along for the ride, the clamping force is determined by the shoulder. the rubber ring is what actually does the sealing. can you gorilla the thing and crack the plastic, i am pretty sure, that is why torque values are there.
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I had forgotten that the top is plastic (mine has an aluminum piece instead). The plastic topped ones usually do have washers, and I do remember making sure they went back where they belonged.

Bustert is right that Gorillas are not only hard on luggage but around plastic parts they are dangerous. I would still use the washers because pinching plastic starts stress cracks where the wider washer spreads the stress out to where it is less likely to start cracking. It's more forgiving to Gorillas as well.
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