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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 6 Days Ago
Doc308 Doc308 is offline
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Sportster/Buell Year: 1969
Other Motorcycle Model: Panhead EL
Other Motorcycle Year: 1948
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That rear wheel should turn with little effort if in 4th gear. To start with the obvious, make sure that the tire is not too close to the jack--it could be rubbing there or the wheel may not be far enough off of the ground. If the difficulty is not that and the wheel also doesn't spin freely in neutral, check your brake adjustment--back it way off to insure that the shoes aren't rubbing inside of the drum. If you do that and the difficulty continues, inspect the brakes to insure that something isn't frozen inside. Once to get the wheel spinning properly, be sure that you set the timing on the front cylinder compression stroke. You can use your thumb on the spark plug hole as suggested but you can't do that while turning the wheel. What I do is to open up the front intake pushrod cover and as you turn the wheel watch for the pushrod to drop ( I put a clothespin on the pushrod --it's easier to see when you're behind the bike turning the wheel). Once that is at its lowest position, you are on the front cylinder compression stroke and the timing mark will appear in the hole fairly quickly.
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73HEAD 73HEAD is offline
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howdy. when i spin my rear wheel in nuetral it seems to bind once every revolution. i back off brake adjuster and it still rubs. is it the chain.? or is the rear brake not centered correctly.?? there is no external interference obvious. (73 xlh ). any tips on things to look for would be great. cheers
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Does the chain go rigid at a certain point in wheel rotation?
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hi rick. its sort of an old chain probably 20 years old. a 530 diamond with the square rivets and flat links, not like the figure 8 looking chains. i pulled it off last week and gave it a full on clean and oiled it back right up. there is a couple of mild links that are stiffer than others though. but as far as any links being rigid, no mate. i have a good 530 off a bonny thats in good nick and a new diamond, but neither have the beef that the one on it now has. i probably should just put the new on on and compare hey
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another thing i am experiencing is with the clutch. i put in new steels and fibres a couple thousand ks ago and for the life of me cant adjust the drag out. i have the fm and have read and watched everything i can find on these clutches. i understand we are deal with old machinery and they are tempramental. does it make any difference while tranny warm versus hot when adjusting? the free play we speak of in the release mechanism screw. seems the more there the more drag. at present after last adjustment there is the bare minimum but have about 3mm play at the cable at the case and about the same at hand lever. all appears well there. apart from the standard drag making the bike wanto walk i find that when coming to a stop with the clutch pulled in just before full stop it feel like its binding as it goes round. more pronounced in 1st than second. i can find neutral well with a blip while downshifting but the sensation i feel when coming to a stop in first is scaring me. im using good quality straight 50 oil is at correct level. if i screw release screw in a tad to where there would be no free play there. will i do damage. i have standard size spacers in and the 74 style pressure plate
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I always had trouble adjusting clutch as per fsm. Since I used piniongears method all has been good.
Look in the stickys at the top of the IH page, somewhere there you'll find a walkthrough for wet clutch adjustment by piniongear. Well worth a try.
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If the wheel binds when you are in neutral there is something amiss with the brake or ,as noted, the chain. There is a procedure to center the rear brake. Loosen the axle and adjusting nuts on the backing plate. Give the wheel a good spin. Then apply the brake solidly. While holding the brake on , tighten the adjuster and and axle nuts. You may want to do this with the chain disconnected as well to rule out a chain issue. If the problem improves slightly, run through the procedure again. If the problem is the same, without the chain connected, and the you have centered the brake shoes, there is something going on inside of the drum and you'll need to remove the wheel for a thorough inspection/ cleaning.
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thanks boys. i will go out the shed later and do the wheel/brake thingy. appreciate all the feedback. will let ya all know the story. cheers...
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I use a telescoping mirror pointed at the timing hole while rotating the tire in 4th gear and plugs pulled.Rear wheel drag in neutral should be addressed.
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