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cv carb

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  #1  
Old 26th March 2010
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Default CV Carb help

I have little experience with CV carb, but after getting into mine I'll ask your help. On the side
of the carb is written in Sharpie 175/50. I found a tare in the slide diaphram, and a mushy acc pump.
it has a 48 in place of the 50 (low idle) for last summers riding. The A/F plug has been drilled. The
needle is nearly seated. 1/16 of a turn to seat. I replace the diaphram (old was metal) with genuine H-D
(dumb ass me) they're spendy. Old one has a hole diameter from 3/32 but not 7/64. The hole being the one
I guess gets drilled sometimes. Pipes have no crossover. I question would be about the A/F adjustment, book says 2.5 to
three turns out. http://i1034.photobucket.com/albums/...d/DSC00250.jpg
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Old 26th March 2010
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Default

Welcome. I also have a 2000 and have plenty of experience with them.
Change screws over to allen head bolts so you can easily tune it whilst on the bike.

What has been done to the bike (AC/pipes 883/1200 etc)?

Looks like the idle jet is too large. Go down to a 45 and set to 2.5-3 turns.

There is a sticky for tuning 101 worth reading.

Garry
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  #3  
Old 26th March 2010
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Default

From messing with a few of these.... getting the HD diaphragm might be a good thing. Many, but not all, of the "aftermarket" ones have a thicker, stiffer diaphragm material, which causes the slide to react differently.

You don't need to drill the slider, it works just fine as designed.

I don't know what a mushy accelerator pump is... it either works or not. The diaphragm in that can be changed, also its spring can be changed. If you twist the throttle and fuel sprays from the pedestal (nozzle) at the opening to the carbs throat, its working.

Some folks will go a larger jet in winter, but.. 48-50 is not a huge difference. The intermediate jet will greatly effect fuel economy btw.

The IDLE mixture screw has been known to be quite lean on a lot of those carbs. My own was just as yours was, and it ran horribly until I opened it to about 2-1/2 turns from "lightly" seated. I found no huge difference going to 3 turns, or even back to 2-1/4 turns, so I just left it at 2-1/2 - midway sort of. Your own may or may not like it that way.

A 50 intermediate sounds a bit big on a mildly modded engine - open breathing intake and exhaust. This is where some tuning, some playing will tell you whats best. I found summer a 44/175 works ok for me, with the needle in the slider shimmed about .033" with a small nylon washer. Dont get carried away with shims trying to find super thin washers. Raising it by .030 or so at a time is fine. Thats about 1mm. You wont need to raise it a whole lot past .050 (just under 1.5mm). Raising it, has the effect of bringing the main nozzle into play at lower flows, allows using smaller intermediate to be used. FWIW, nothing cured the farts until I simply raised the needle a little.
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Old 26th March 2010
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Default

sorry forgot K-N air filter (883) I would guess no major mods. pipes no cross over.

mushy being rubber separating from the fiber (particals)

as for drilling, I do not no what factory hole size is, whether the guy drilled it before.

Thank you
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Old 26th March 2010
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Default

I'll check that sticky out, thanks

I dont think a major has been done. 883, K-N A/C, and pipes but I dont know what they are.

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  #6  
Old 26th March 2010
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Default

The mixture screw is turned all the way in trying to overcome the fact that the #48 is TOO rich for the bike. A 45 or 42 should be more consistant with what I have seen..

The Adjustment should be done like in the sticky, but basicaly I turn it in (lean) until it stumbles then back out 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This winds up being just on the lean side of Good.
Your Plugs will tell you what you need. and Plug test each circuit seperately. One test staying on the idle circuit, one test on the needle (midrange) and a test of the main jet during WOT ..
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