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  #11  
Old 17th October 2008
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beuz beuz is offline
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Waterproof cars connectors are perfect to replace the original deutsh connectors.
They don't require specific tool.
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  #12  
Old 17th October 2008
BYL350Z BYL350Z is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beuz View Post
Waterproof cars connectors are perfect to replace the original deutsh connectors.
They don't require specific tool.
But do I need the connectors? For example, the wiring for the rear lights (brake and turn) is as follows? 4 individual wires went into one connector and that connector was plugged into, what I think is, a distributor. Out of the distributor, there were three connectors leaving: one going to the brake light and the other two going to the turn signals. What I want to do is separate the 4 wires (which I'm assuming are 1)running light and 2)brake light, 3)left turn signal, 4) right turn signal), that went into the connector and wire them directly to the destination, being the brake light and the turn signals.
Is that doable? should I post pics of the set up now??
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  #13  
Old 17th October 2008
Fe Head Fe Head is offline
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Sure - you can do whatever achieves your goal - just do the test thing first before cutting off any leads and then checking ( i.e. check twice cut once. )

Are you planning on just elimnating the connector and splicing/soldering/silicon /heat shrinking / another heat shrink? OR

Replace the entire wire lead end to end - this is much more involved ?

Cheers;
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  #14  
Old 17th October 2008
BYL350Z BYL350Z is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Head View Post
Sure - you can do whatever achieves your goal - just do the test thing first before cutting off any leads and then checking ( i.e. check twice cut once. )

Are you planning on just elimnating the connector and splicing/soldering/silicon /heat shrinking / another heat shrink? OR

Replace the entire wire lead end to end - this is much more involved ?

Cheers;
I'm not even going to try to replace the wires. I wish I knew enough about this stuff to do that, but I cut my wood shop classes in high school when they taught us how to work with electrical wires on cars. I'm just going to eliminate the connector. The wires are LOOOOONG enough, I'll actually have to cut them shorter. Plus I cut my frame, so my blinkers are mounted a lot closer to the center of bike.
Next question, how do I get the wires out of the connector? Just pull them out or do I have the cut them? and what do you mean by the "test thing"?
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  #15  
Old 18th October 2008
Fe Head Fe Head is offline
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That is great that you have extra length to play with.

In this case I would preserve the connectors and the wires by cutting each side 1" - 1 1/2" away from the connector block. You will then not need to buy or acquire the special pin removing tool as mentioned by "beuz" earlier and you will always be able to re-use or swap the connectors in the future.

By testing I was just suggesting do mock up the connections you plan to use by disconnecting the connector plugs and using jumper wires -back probe each pair to make sure they all work in the fashion you have chosen- or - once cut push the ends together to observe everything working.

Once you have confirmed the wires are performing properly then go ahead with the end to end splicing process.

Everyone has their own preferred method for achieving a weather resistant solid joint, I will briefly list my steps below for your consideration.

1. Strip off 3/8" -1/2" of the plastic insulation from each end of the wire sets to be soldered

2. Cut and slide a 2" and a 3" lenght of heat shrink with one length sliding over each wire set before joining the set(s) together

3. Weave the butt ends of the braided wires into each other until they are fully overlapped and the ends are smoothed down.

4. Add the flux -paste or liquid to the bared wires and solder with a really hot iron so there is good capillary action drawing the solder deep into and along the joint.

5. Cool and smear some RTV silicon over the soldered area and some of the insulation

6. Slide the shortest (2") heat shrink over the joint and silicon, centering it evenly -shrink it down

7. Slide and center the longer heat shrink over the first and shrink it down as well

8. Finished one connection - some add a little more RTV silcon over the ends of the first heat shrink - this is optional but, as in life, it never hurts to have another layer of protection.

The above will be a smooth sealed joint that is both mechanically and electrically sound with excellent weather and road salt resistance.

The difficulty in undoing the above makes the soft testing first quite important.

The next important step is number 2. More than once my mind has wandered and I was looking at a beautifully soldered joint while the heat shrink was still sitting on the bench -ouch.


All the best with your re-wired bike.

Cheers;
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  #16  
Old 24th October 2008
BYL350Z BYL350Z is offline
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Since I want to run a straight set up, meaning the wires are connected directly to the turn signals and break light, do I have to get rid of all of the connectors?? or not?? (i can post pics if need be)
I ask because when I open the wires to measure the current in order to determine which is the left, right turn signal wires and brake/running light wires, i get no reading of any current at all. however, when I plug everything back in stock, it works. So there is current running through those wires. Am I doing something wrong? I"m beginning to think that all of the connectors that go to the rear lighting area will have to go unless there is something I'm missing.
Please, please, advise. (I'd like to get some riding time before it gets tooooo cold here in NYC).

Thanks
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  #17  
Old 27th October 2008
Fe Head Fe Head is offline
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I am not sure what technique you have employed for measuring currents but I would just probe the wires when disconnected that feed the power to the connector with the multi-meter set to - DC volts 0 to 20 and the other meter's lead to a grounded point.

This will tell you which wire is operating which light filament. The voltage readings will pulse with the flasher being signaled while providing a steady reading when the running lights or brake light is being activated.

On the lead that provides no voltage - switch the meter to continuity and it should buzz showing this wire to be a ground back to the battery via the frame or engine,

As far as the connector's function - it is mainly for assembly and repair of the systems and sub-systems rather than an electrically functional element in the circuit.

Go ahead and by-pass the connectors if your plan is to leave the wiring in a minalistic and simple form.

Cheers;
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