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  #21  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Good for you, keep us posted.
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  #22  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wharfcreek View Post
Quick up-date: Had a few extra minutes today and pulled the spark plugs on this '04. Rear plug, black and wet. Front plug, rather white and dry. Conclusion?: I've got an intake leak, or so it would seem. In spite of my having tested for this with carb cleaner spray, I think this situation now merits further involvement. So....I'm going to replace intake manifold gaskets this week and see if it changes anything. With luck, it will. Tomorrow being Sunday I'm not sure if my local HD shop is open. But, I'll get the gaskets Monday at the latest, and will try to get it pulled down tomorrow....'weather' and 'girlfriend' permitting!!
Just out of curiosity, I would do a compression test on both cylinders...

After you have the AFR straightened out, you'll probably want to run some seafoam through the jugs...

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  #23  
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Managed to find a HD shop here in the Baltimore area that was open today. Purchased new plugs, as well as new intake seals, got them installed, and 'Bah'!!! ....... No change in the 'popping' situation. I took some starting ether and sprayed it all over the intake area, and it didn't change the idle RPM one bit. I do NOT have an intake leak!!

I'm going to do some plug checks over the next few days.....but gettin' pretty frustrated with this. To make things worse, another problem I thought I'd fixed has raised it's ugly head again. I was having problems with the turn signals....mostly just the left side. Every time I turn the ignition key to the 'run' position the left blinker would start blinking, even before I start the bike. I pulled the switch and all the wiring, removed it all, pulled all the wires from the sleeve and basically checked everything. Couldn't find a problem but when I re-assembled it all it was working as it should. I thought maybe it was a problem at the connector under the tank.....which maybe just cleaning it all might have corrected. It didn't. Same thing started again today. I can 'cancel' the left signal by initiating the Rt, then canceling the Rt side. If I push and hold the Rt side, it starts the whole system in 'emergency flasher' mode...which should require both switches to be pushed simultaneously. I'm now thinking this has got to be a 'flasher logic' problem, as the left switch isn't doing what it should, but then neither is the rt one. Guess I need a new flasher module. Another $100......

Anyway.....so much for today's work!! WC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wharfcreek View Post
Every time I turn the ignition key to the 'run' position the left blinker would start blinking, even before I start the bike.
<snip>
I can 'cancel' the left signal by initiating the Rt, then canceling the Rt side. If I push and hold the Rt side, it starts the whole system in 'emergency flasher' mode...which should require both switches to be pushed simultaneously. I'm now thinking this has got to be a 'flasher logic' problem, as the left switch isn't doing what it should, but then neither is the rt one. Guess I need a new flasher module. Another $100......
Classic example of the left TS switch constantly activated - A meter on the White/Violet Wire from the left controls at Pin5 of the 24B connector should show a 12v reading, meaning the system believes the switch is held down (for whatever reason)...

You should also be able to see this (inappropriate) constant 12v on the White/Violet Wire at the TSM on Pin8 of the 30B connector...

When tracking down an intermittent issue, carefully place your meter probes on the wires so as not to disturb the failure - Once you have confirmed the failure, then, with the meter probe still on the offending wire, carefully move various cables & connectors to see if the failure is relieved, thus identifying the area (or specific part) that causes the failure...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rejeanprimeau View Post
Your carb problem seem to be electrical. Rich as you have and still piping; check coil and spark plug wire.
With the disparity between spark plugs, I now would definitely check the coil and verify a solid spark on each cylinder - and do a compression check...


Troubleshooting should be a scientific process of testing, evaluating, proposing a cause/solution, altering the situation & testing for results... A careful, thorough, methodical, step-by-step process of elimination should lead to an answer/solution (with the potential of a lasting fix)...


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IXL, correct me if I'm wrong.....but the TS switch is 'make' switch that routes power coming up the Orange/white wire 'to' the white/violet wire, yes? So, if this switch is tested via checking the cavities at the end of the connector, by probing the two cavities where they terminate....if you go from no continuity to full continuity when pushing the switch, that should pretty much tell you if the switch and wiring is functional, yes? Further checks for 'shorts' between other wires in the harness should read NO continuity as well if I'm correct about this. When I took the harness completely apart the orange with white wire actually has a junction within the harness....and that wire goes to both the TS switch and either the horn or headlight switch (I didn't check it as that was working fine). But, I guess my question here is that if wiring problem is my culprit, then it must be after the switch/harness connector going back TO the TS module, would it not? And, with the goofy action from the Rt side, wouldn't that rather lead to it being the module itself...since the two switch harnesses are completely different? BTW, just where is the TSM located on an '04 anyway? Thanks!! Tom D.
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The goofy right sw is actually very correct - Once the left side blinking begins, the TSM isn't bothered by the constant on left button - When you press the right side button, it's just like normal, it starts the right side blinking instead of the left because it saw the actuation of the right side button... then it stops blinking when you hit the right side again, just like it shoiuld (but the left button is still seen as active but not a switch change from off-on-off) - When you hold the right (while the left is stuck) it's just like you would normally do to activate the 4-ways by holding down both switches for more than 2 or 3 seconds - So all that behavior is NORMAL - EXCEPT the system sees the left switch button as down all the time...

One thing about electrical problems - visual inspection is only a small part of the checks - Metering is a critical part - and sometimes, loading the circuit is needed to discover the problem...

As to mechanical devices (like switches), they can fail in crazy, unexpected ways - A slight twist in the mounting or some close by device, can cause altered operation & functioning... Maybe your switch control set, when rotated, or another switch is pressed, causes a short on that switch --

Orange/White power line does feed the TS switch & the Horn Sw - the schematic shows an external junction of those two wires...

I suspect the switch is malfunctioning for some reason - It's intermittent since you said it worked after putting everything back - but then the malfunction returned - So I expect it to be the switch --- BUT NOW ---

You can carefully disconnect the left handlebar connector (24B) so as not to disturb any wiring positioning, the see if the left TS still starts blinking when you turn on the keyswitch - this should be a quick check to see if the problem is toward the TSM or toward the TS Switch... If the blinking does not happen, carefully replug 24B together & see if the blink malfunction starts again (key off, key on)...

If the blinking malfunction continues with the 24B connector open, then go to the TSM - It's located under the battery (location of the '07 version is pictured in the Sportsterpedia but I now made a note under the '04-06 description that it's the same as the '07 version) - I would check to see if the TSM is getting a 12v signal on Pin8 (White/Violet) - then track the same wire toward the switch to see if it's a short in the wiring or the switch is flaky...

If there is no 12v signal on Pin8 of the TSM, yet it is activating the left TS function, then I would suspect the TSM...

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Last edited by IXL2Relax; 4 Weeks Ago at 18:07..
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Wharfcreek

You have describe what my bike was doing (custom 883 2005)
Before going a long trip I decided to have the bike on the dyno to see what the real AFR was. 48 pilot 180 main N4NN needle with 2 shime
I was still very lean. I was told that there was reversion.
Then I realized that I was not burning the fuel a low RPM because it was being pushed out of the carb. My air filter was damp with gas.

It may be worth your time to get on the dyno
I was able to add a bit of fuel with more shims and a needle from CV performance .
after the conversion I bought the N65 C It has done okay until I go to the dyno. It cuts out a portion of the popping.

Check if your air filter is wet. Listen to see if you hear air being pushed out of the carb,
take the cover off the air filter and check if the fuel is thrown out at low and quarter throttle. That would indicate some reversion.

Pass 3500 Rpm the bike would be getting so much gaz the plug would be wet and black. Like a too rich condition but not a low rpm. I'm still trying to determine what happens.
So you may want to research reversion threads.
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