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  #5181  
Old 11th July 2018
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Originally Posted by r4fthrs View Post
Finished the starter project (the new All Balls high torque starter is great! turns the 1200 over with no problem). As with any project there were other things that needed to be done, discovered a rear exhaust leak, replaced the clutch cable, new levers, oil and filter, new 4 gauge ground wire, new derby cover screws (had to drill one out) and new plugs. Adjusted the clutch and primary chain.

I have to say it starts without any hesitation (have to see if it improves my winter starting issues), the clutch takes much less effort and has smoother engagement and neutral is easier to find. So it was worth the expense and work, as the improvements are noticeable. Also, did put some Redline injector cleaner in it as I noticed it still had a little carbon on the heads (used my cell phone fiber optics scope), but a lot less than before I converted to the DK Custom AC and external breather kit.
Did you upgrade the battery cables when you replaced the starter?
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  #5182  
Old 11th July 2018
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Originally Posted by ParrotHead View Post
Did you upgrade the battery cables when you replaced the starter?
Yes indeed! 4 gauge (also cleaned the grounding points and battery terminals)
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  #5183  
Old 12th July 2018
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Did finish mounting the tires and wheels, bled the brakes and rebuilt the carb. Loaded up and ran down to my son's, puts me about halfway to Gregs,"Sprink", for our early departure from Michigan. Small posse this year, but we're still doing it!
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  #5184  
Old 12th July 2018
sml1226 sml1226 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParrotHead View Post
Paul, didn't Wendy say something about an air hole possibly being blocked in the back of the carb causing it to run rich? It may be worth taking a look at the back and being sure the mount isn't blocking something.

I can ask her to provide more detail if you wish but it may not be in time for your departure as she is still on the road
I’d be interested in that info for my own curiosity if you don’t mind. My Mikuni has been rich since I got it. I don’t remember anything that I could be blocking off, but I haven’t looked at the back of it too seriously in a while now.
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  #5185  
Old 12th July 2018
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Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post
I’d be interested in that info for my own curiosity if you don’t mind. My Mikuni has been rich since I got it. I don’t remember anything that I could be blocking off, but I haven’t looked at the back of it too seriously in a while now.
Here is what I found out.

In the diagram below, #56, just about dead center in the picture, just below the intake flange. There should actually be two right in the bottom area of the flange on the airbox side of the carb.

What she said was to remove the screw and blow through that passage and the screw to ensure they are clean. If they are, check the accelerator pump diaphragm. Those are the most likely culprits of the Mikuni starting to run rich.



Last edited by ParrotHead; 12th July 2018 at 18:21..
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  #5186  
Old 14th July 2018
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I got a package from hammer performance that I dropped off at my shop..

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  #5187  
Old 14th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ParrotHead View Post
Here is what I found out.

In the diagram below, #56, just about dead center in the picture, just below the intake flange. There should actually be two right in the bottom area of the flange on the airbox side of the carb.

What she said was to remove the screw and blow through that passage and the screw to ensure they are clean. If they are, check the accelerator pump diaphragm. Those are the most likely culprits of the Mikuni starting to run rich.


Chris, I'm running much better now but have some decell popping, lean? What part did Wendy think was the Acell Pump Diaph? Mine is a piece of ribbed aluminum, #77 with a spring load on it.
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  #5188  
Old 14th July 2018
sml1226 sml1226 is offline
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I cleaned mine out last night. We’ll see if it helped.

Today, I decided I should probably get a new key cut.

Top is my “spare” and the bottom is the one I’ve been using. Really weird wear marks. It’s about half as thick as it should be on that cut near the head. Probably not a good sign...
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  #5189  
Old 14th July 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sml1226 View Post
I cleaned mine out last night. We’ll see if it helped.

Today, I decided I should probably get a new key cut.

Top is my “spare” and the bottom is the one I’ve been using. Really weird wear marks. It’s about half as thick as it should be on that cut near the head. Probably not a good sign...
The metal has probably worn away because of all of the vibrations while the key is in the bike while it is vibrating. Maybe even from other keys blowing/swinging in the wind while the bike is moving? I've heard of people having problems with keys for those reasons.

Good call on switching the key you use. You don't want it to break off.
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  #5190  
Old 14th July 2018
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today i tightened the screws on my front pushrod base. it's been leaking for a while, the usual culprit; pinched o ring. i've already reseated it twice but it still leaks a little. so i permatexed the o ring hoping that works until i can get the collapsible pushrod tubes in the future. just waiting for the permatex to cure now.
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