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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #181  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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brucstoudt brucstoudt is offline
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with a 15 bushing minimum,i have to agree with you.in the U.S.i doubt it would be worth your time.i live in the U.S. so that's how I tend to look at these things.
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  #182  
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lynnx lynnx is offline
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Hey, you could have machined out the new boss for my brake plate and I could have given you the 2 extra bushings I bought (from the states of course) by double ordering lol.
Have you found JW Boon of Amsterdam? Amazing parts list.
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  #183  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

Yes, they’re my main agent for new parts!

(And who I was referring to with the min. order charge and bank transfer fee, something like a tenner for me every time I make an international payment - works out about the same if you use their payment card surcharge.)

If you’re new to this, a word or two of caution - new does not always mean good (aftermarket), sometimes even NOS OEM does not mean good. These bikes have been around so long (and production has gone through so many cost saving exercises during different periods), that unless you have the experience some of the more knowledgable members here have, you’ll have a hard time figuring out whether the part you just pulled out of the bike was correct (or good), or the different looking / behaving one in your hand which you ordered with the correct part book number is correct (or good). It’s good fun finding out, but can be expensive, and time consuming to do it right.

It must be great to live stateside and pick through the parts at swap meets - I’m lucky in having a Sportster fanatic friend over there who kindly helps me out with all the major / hard to find parts.

Good luck with yours, thanks for the part swap offer, happy to help out any time if it’s something within my limited capability.
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  #184  
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lynnx lynnx is offline
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Thanks for the heads up.
I have the bike 3 weeks and I,m already in it up to my neck lol.
See "1960 xlch in uk" if interested.!!!

Boon is still cheaper than vat, import duty and handling. If you order all at once - and I have lots to order. sobsob.

I am only ordering part numbers from the IPC regardless of whats actually fitted, and the only thing to fail "quality" so far is the pair of aftermarket gear fork shifters.
As to how long it will all last when thrashing around ………...
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  #185  
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Update / final chapter (at least for now).

This has taken me a while, but bear in mind I work away from home a lot and when I am home I’ve only worked on the bike after 11pm.

New bushings for shifter



New seal went in, using a 3/8” socket extension



Set clearances (is it just me who likes to handle feeler gauges individually? I can never find the one I want when they’re in a set!



I was feeling pretty confident that I’d get away with the standard forks I bought after reading a post a while back saying that if the trap door and all the parts are in good shape no +/- should be needed. Not so for me, I needed a +10 on the C/S and a +20 on the M/S. By some amazing stroke of luck, PaulC had loaned me these exact forks, brand new and surplus to requirements. We struck a deal and I put them in.





All looking and working nice. Especially once the shift fork shaft had been set into the door with loctite.

Got the M/S clip in the RH case, after a frustrating 30 minutes. Tools I tried



Tools I actually used



Did a trial fit, and noticed a mark on the C/S boss reinforcement ring, where the gear had rubbed. Inked it up to confirm



I made the ring to the drawing in DR DICKs thread, just a few changes (made the oil way semi-circular so I could use a drill), and due to my enthusiasm it actually came out slightly thinner (not enough to make a difference). So this was because the shim needed was sitting slightly lower than the recess in the gear.

Stuck the gear in the lathe and took some material off this surface with a Dremel, so the shim sits proud



Set end play





Took about 7 or 8 trial installs in honestly. I kept all the clearances on the loose side of the tolerance. End play was 0.007/8.

I have a full set of shims, but the one I wanted for the C/S was between sizes, so took this down with a diamond whetstone used for plane irons etc, which made quick work of it.

Ripped the old speedo drive apart - one OEM part I don’t mind sacrificing



Plugged it with a cap screw





Tools I made / used. In particular I would have had a hard time doing this job without the surface plate (a thick sheet of glass would have worked) and my little lathe.



In the bike, 4th gear is a little hard to get in (just spinning the sprocket at the moment, don’t have a chain fitted), but I need to ride it to see what it’s like.



Back to my clutch / kicker thread now, thanks for all the help and advice here.
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  #186  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyHarry68 View Post


nicely done.a machined plug for the end of the countershaft?
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  #187  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
nicely done.a machined plug for the end of the countershaft?

Yeah, I wanted something with a good flat surface. A piece of scrap I had practically fitted already.
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  #188  
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that's pretty slick.i use an old cut down spoke like the f.s.m.mentions.
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  #189  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleighcrane View Post
I believe that the difference between the two is the ID of the seal to accommodate the two different clutch pushrods types . I installed mine with the seal part outboard . Hope that I did it right but that’s the way the old one was.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


You’re right sleighcrane, 37531-56B is tighter. Doubt anyone is interested, but here’s a pic.



12021 would fit and seal on the rod, just not as tight.
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