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  #171  
Old 13th September 2018
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3-1/2'' from bottom of tower to bottom of upper cam plate groove. or slot.
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  #172  
Old 13th September 2018
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Default ‘68 XLCH...transmission

Thanks Chevelle. I don’t have a height gauge, but it seemed good.





That’s not a measurement, I set the caliper then looked for any gap etc.

The original had x 3 shims and measured good with the shims.

But maybe this is my problem - cam plate not square to fork shaft:



Shaft is straight, checked it in lathe. DD talks about this but doesn’t go into how to remedy it. The shaft is loose in the trap door, but not loose enough to cause this - here it is pulled towards the cam plate



I can experiment a bit with shims under one side of the tower to see how this affects it all, but it wouldn’t be a good long term solution.

The tower is not a tight fit with the dowel pins into the door, the small amount of movement didn’t concern me before -

https://youtu.be/eDTUjlFricU

(Pretty difficult to do one handed.)
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  #173  
Old 13th September 2018
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Default ‘68 XLCH...transmission



OK, fork shaft is not totally parallel to cam plate. Cam plate is OK, I clocked this in the lathe a while back. It feels like the fork shaft (which is also a slip fit and has some movement) may be the problem. I planned to loctite this in place with the door bolted to the bike when closer to the final assembly. It could be that this problem disappears once the trans is fitted? But unfortunately I can’t check it in there!

It needs to be under quite a bit of tension to close up that gap.

It’s slightly better if I remove the cam plate follower / spring, but the difference I could probably live with.

Tower bolted firmly to door at all times during these checks.
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  #174  
Old 15th September 2018
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if you put the cam in the tower by itself, no cam follower (plunger and spring) how much can you wiggle it in the bore? another recent post

http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070591

showed some info about the bore fit especially in post #11
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  #175  
Old 15th September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyHarry68 View Post
......Later on I’m going to try shims under the tower to see if this makes any difference............
It might help things but may also increase the chances of the shifter shaft rubbing on the tower like mine did. Though with mine it was because I am using a splined one that isn't stock for my bike. Rounding off the corners of the 'block' area of the shaft, near the ball, helped with that issue.
A tower shim may mess up your gear spacing as well to add to the fun.
Does the movement of your shifter fork shaft affect your gear spacing at all? Mine did but mine was very loose. Once it was loctitited into the trap door the spacing was much more consistent, and everything worked better.

I did find that shifting on the bench was much more difficult than in the bike. My second gear stuck quite a lot when shifting on the bench but I couldn't find a reason for it. When I tried with the trans in the bike, and all the shafts supported both ends, it shifted fine.
Paul
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  #176  
Old 15th September 2018
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Interesting read.
I,m in the process of shimming and replacing parts in my transmission.
I found that if all the dogs and holes line up then it shifts thru all gear nicely,
If they don,t line up then 2nd, in particular, bogs because the two cogs naturally spin at the same speed unless you hold either inut/output. This is difficult to do with only two hands lol!
I,m hoping that with engine running, back wheel turning , things will be easier.
I,d welcome input tho ,!!!!!
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  #177  
Old 15th September 2018
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by doodah man View Post
if you put the cam in the tower by itself, no cam follower (plunger and spring) how much can you wiggle it in the bore? another recent post



http://xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2070591



showed some info about the bore fit especially in post #11

Virtually nothing, it’s a good fit - I might have bushed the old one as it was terrible, but the used one I got is the webbed design and altogether a much better unit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paulc View Post
It might help things but may also increase the chances of the shifter shaft rubbing on the tower like mine did. Though with mine it was because I am using a splined one that isn't stock for my bike. Rounding off the corners of the 'block' area of the shaft, near the ball, helped with that issue.
A tower shim may mess up your gear spacing as well to add to the fun.
Does the movement of your shifter fork shaft affect your gear spacing at all? Mine did but mine was very loose. Once it was loctitited into the trap door the spacing was much more consistent, and everything worked better.

I did find that shifting on the bench was much more difficult than in the bike. My second gear stuck quite a lot when shifting on the bench but I couldn't find a reason for it. When I tried with the trans in the bike, and all the shafts supported both ends, it shifted fine.
Paul

Hi Paul, I haven’t even started playing around with spacing yet, just using random shims to space it out and see how it shifts.

I’ll try loctiting the fork shaft in place later. It felt like it was under tension when I pulled it towards the cam plate enough that it was parallel, so I wouldn’t be surprised if it still isn’t quite right on the bench, but hopefully it will improve enough to set my mind at ease.

I’m making the bronze bushings for the shifter shaft before I can fit it in the bike, they were totally shot.

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  #178  
Old 16th September 2018
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machining your own shifter shaft bushings,you're well on your way to being a fanatic.in one sense i'm impressed,but doubt that it's economical.
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  #179  
Old 16th September 2018
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Its the thought that counts lol
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  #180  
Old 16th September 2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucstoudt View Post
machining your own shifter shaft bushings,you're well on your way to being a fanatic.in one sense i'm impressed,but doubt that it's economical.

It’s economical if you have the material already, and only noticed they’re worn out after you just ordered everything else you thought you needed, and can only get them from Europe with a minimum order value that you would need to buy 15 bushings to meet and haven’t got any money left anyway. So yeah, it’s economical for me.
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