Ironhead circuit diagram comparison

[IronHeadRon]

I left out the horn not to clog things up. The colors mean almost nothing as I work with what I have. But besides that doeswork the same as I used the kill switch only going to the tail light instead of redundantly to everything else and left the horn out of the diagram. The fsm doesn't show ground, so despite appearances I'm quite positive all of the components are in parallel.

Every thread has turned into multiple theories about my problems, I want to keep this simple. I am not asking if this will fix my problem, I am not asking about capacitance. I am asking if the hand drawn diagram will operate similarly to the fsm one. I have a plan, I just want to make sure I am reading the diagram right

TL;DR
Ignoring any possible issues in the regulator, generator, and capacitor considering a 1969 XLCH running with the Hibeams, Lowbeams, Tail, and Brake all in paralle, am I showing the correct connections to the capacitor [ it's + to raw hot, (Armature/D+/61, same difference; all directly connected), and the cap's - to regulated ground (D-) as well as the ground screw ]

If you would like to inquire why I am putting in a cap, or suggest an issue, other than the circuitry, please do this in my "2 capacitor question" thread that turned into a diagnosis thread. I would very much appreciate keeping thus one to basic questions about circuit diagrams and possibly capacitor polarity, but I'm pretty sure that I have that right.

I was told specifically @IXL2RELAX or @sportsterdoc are especially knowledgeable here, I am 99% sure (but am just knowledgeable enough to be dangerous) so would appreciate a double check. Otherwise I will answer later today or tomorrow

[IXL2Relax]

Taking the regulator & capacitor out of the question....

Your hand written diagram does show the taillight, brake light & headlight operating off the B+ and ground - in parallel with each other.

You mentioned the kill switch only to the taillight - That does not exactly equal the original circuit, because that switch was intended to allow you to keep the headlight & taillight OFF while starting the bike (reducing the load while starting). After it was running, you could then put the headlight & taillight ON.

Unless you are using a 3-position headlight switch (with an OFF position - maybe that is what you have diagrammed), the headlight will be ON while you are trying to start the bike - which is a heavy load.

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[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax

Taking the regulator & capacitor out of the question....

Your hand written diagram does show the taillight, brake light & headlight operating off the B+ and ground - in parallel with each other.

You mentioned the kill switch only to the taillight - That does not exactly equal the original circuit, because that switch was intended to allow you to keep the headlight & taillight OFF while starting the bike (reducing the load while starting). After it was running, you could then put the headlight & taillight ON.

Unless you are using a 3-position headlight switch (with an OFF position - maybe that is what you have diagrammed), the headlight will be ON while you are trying to start the bike - which is a heavy load.

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Yup, you read it right (the pencil dots at the end of switches indicate a toggle to broken, if it were two state I would have left a line) tri-state toggle

Thank you, I know many are quite positive what my issue is, but due to lack of consensus I came up with a testing sequence, and happen to have a bunch if taillights that are perfect (my metric lost blinkers first for some reason, so I have a bunch if useless bulbs that will engage thier tail but not brake) I really appreciate you confirming the circuit and only the circuit.

I made some changes, mine as well post it as this thread is dead and I think it's cool.



Do you like my notation on the internals of the components? I feel like if you know your way around a circuit diagrams this summarizes many spread out pages if the fsm quite nicely. I only really need the wiring diagram for colors and stuff, but thought thus would help me see the big picture.

[IXL2Relax]

Originally Posted by IronHeadRon

I made some changes
<SNIP>
Do you like my notation on the internals of the components?

Everyone sees, conceives and diagrams in their own way. The Regulator internal connections can help you remember why things are connected in a certain way.

I'm not an IH guru, but I understand functionally most electrical circuits and components. The ancient regulator technology is sometimes hard to track down information upon which to make decision.

Carry On...


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[thefrenchowl]

Hi,

If you do your own lecky diagram, it's much legible if you do not follow the way HD or others make their drawings.

Start at the top with the + PLUS,

Then gene/regulator/battery/circuit breakers/fuses/...

Them CONTROLS in the middle (switches, coil, ...)

Then lower down the end items (points, horn, lights, ...)

Then EARTH/- MINUS/FRAME at the bottom

This makes the drg much easier to follow 1) when you wire it, 2) more importantly, when you fault trace:



Note, my drg doesn't represent anything, it's just a generic/general layout...

Patrick

[rejeanprimeau]

Originally Posted by thefrenchowl

Hi,

If you do your own lecky diagram, it's much legible if you do not follow the way HD or others make their drawings.

Start at the top with the + PLUS,

Then gene/regulator/battery/circuit breakers/fuses/...

Them CONTROLS in the middle (switches, coil, ...)

Then lower down the end items (points, horn, lights, ...)

Then - MINUS/FRAME at the bottom

This makes the drg much easier to follow when 1) you wire it, 2) when you fault trace:



Note, my drg doesn't represent anything, it's just a generic/general layout...

Patrick

M plugs, how hot they are?

[thefrenchowl]

: - ) No, they're ZEE Lightning plugs...

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by thefrenchowl

Hi,

If you do your own lecky diagram, it's much legible if you do not follow the way HD or others make their drawings.

Start at the top with the + PLUS,

Then gene/regulator/battery/circuit breakers/fuses/...

Them CONTROLS in the middle (switches, coil, ...)

Then lower down the end items (points, horn, lights, ...)

Then EARTH/- MINUS/FRAME at the bottom

This makes the drg much easier to follow 1) when you wire it, 2) more importantly, when you fault trace:


Note, my drg doesn't represent anything, it's just a generic/general layout...

Patrick

Yeah, I 'm no electrician and am quite inconsistent and like making up my own notation with a mix of intuitive shapes and electrical notation. I like the (+)----|I----(-) notation for batteries but I don't have one. But I do think this will make sense to anyone intimately familiar with an old ironhead, but maybe not; doesn't really have too.

My main goal is for future wire referencing, so I have the regulator oriented as mine is, with the tail, cap, and headlamps and thier switches being of interest, I made them spread out sort of in relation to where they are on the bike. Then I just threw the generator and horn in where they fit nicest, and every color if every connector and wire as it is on the bike (which is most important)


Anyways:

It passed the control test I know it would B+----|ı----(ground screw) = lights

Next up is D+----|ı----DF which just to ensure the "threshold relay" between D+ and B+ works as expected, pass, now we'rewaiting for it to cool down a bit to bump her and really put her to the test

Then We start her up and hope for the best fail, it glowed upon swithing on and blew with revs, looking like the regulator, there must be a high current at start which accounted for them both blowing last time
IF PASS assume anomalous voltage spike

IF FAIL try other, seemingly fine regulator and try again I am at this stage now
IF PASS assume abd inspect regulator malfunction this happened
IF FAIL shoot myself......with a water pistol of course, and rethink


ALSO, Everyone can do what you will with the thread now, b.s., diagnose, whatever. I just couldn't get a simple question through before (possibly fir good reason, probably doesn't matter ir I asked it wierd) but I have that now.

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by IXL2Relax

Everyone sees, conceives and diagrams in their own way. The Regulator internal connections can help you remember why things are connected in a certain way.

I'm not an IH guru, but I understand functionally most electrical circuits and components. The ancient regulator technology is sometimes hard to track down information upon which to make decision.

Carry On...


IXL _______ >>>> My Motorcycle Chronicles Are Here <<<<
For Sportster Tech Info:
Ride The Sportsterpedia - A Toll-Free XLForum Information Highway!

Well, having an extra has comes in handy. Check out my ancient "how xlch voltage us regulated and dispersed thread" if anyone has questions there. With a 9V battery, a Christmas light (it was quite illuminating), and plenty of input from y'all I think it covers just about everything. But if people really think of it as that mysterious, I could try to do a formal write up if the pedia wants it. Otherwise I'll just jeep my eyes open for questions. It pretty much works like my diagram, but there is a resistor between the normally closed point and D- (Otherwise it short circuit).