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Ironhead Sportster Motorcycle Talk (1957-1985) For all those that wanna talk about Ironhead Sportster Motorcycles

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  #11  
Old 14th April 2021
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sungod sungod is offline
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Default 73 ironhead

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dukegonzo View Post
Few things - pushrod adjustment complete, and no intake leak that I found from spraying starter fluid all over the place lol.

I did very briefly mention above smoke from exhaust. Grey smoke when I crack the throttle open quickly. No smoke when idling or riding, just when I crack it open quickly.
Will take new compression test shortly.

*EDIT* - Also I verified that is in fact the late 73' model.
Light colored smoke usually indicates water in the system.Are you running fresh fuel?The good news is 73 late jugs can re bore to i believe .070.
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  #12  
Old 14th April 2021
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Fivecats Fivecats is offline
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If you can get a leak down test it will be more info, let you know what is good & what's not.
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  #13  
Old 15th April 2021
ryder rick ryder rick is offline
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The puff of smoke is fuel from the Accel squirter, normal when you grab a hand full with no load on the motor.

They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm hard headed
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  #14  
Old 15th April 2021
Dukegonzo Dukegonzo is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ryder rick View Post
The puff of smoke is fuel from the Accel squirter, normal when you grab a hand full with no load on the motor.

They don't call me Ironhead Rick just because I'm hard headed
Gotcha. Running a SU Eliminator carb as well if that clears anything up.
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  #15  
Old 15th April 2021
Dukegonzo Dukegonzo is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sungod View Post
Light colored smoke usually indicates water in the system.Are you running fresh fuel?The good news is 73 late jugs can re bore to i believe .070.
Yes, brand new premium, drained the tank and carb before putting new fuel in.

Assuming the pistons in there are Standard - could I theoretically get away with a .010 bore?
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  #16  
Old 15th April 2021
Dukegonzo Dukegonzo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivecats View Post
If you can get a leak down test it will be more info, let you know what is good & what's not.
Gonna order a leak down test kit and get to it next week. Gotta leave town tomorrow a.m for a few days.
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  #17  
Old 15th April 2021
kitabel kitabel is offline
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If the #2 intake cam were out of time to the pinion (1 tooth = 25.7 degrees):
Advanced: CCP too high
Retarded: too low

If a pushrod were too tight, that cylinder would stop working.
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  #18  
Old 15th April 2021
BigMek BigMek is offline
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Personally I would only go for a re-bore as a last resort. Unless the cylinder walls are scored or otherwise damaged, there are a lot of other things that could cause low compression. Cylinder thickness is precious - don't use it if you don't have to.

If you do need to get them bored, your machinist will tell you how much they need to cut to clean them up. Each "step" is .010" but they may need to go more than one step if the damage is deep.
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  #19  
Old 15th April 2021
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kitabel View Post

If a pushrod were too tight, that cylinder would stop working.
??? have you owned an ironhead? classic symptom of a tight pushrod is low compression.this is easily noticed on a kick start motor causing hard starting.but it will start and run fairly decent.
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  #20  
Old 15th April 2021
randy3934 randy3934 is offline
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I haven't read anywhere that the OP held the throttle wide open for compression test.
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