Ironhead Bad break hypothesis

[brucstoudt]

when you exceeded 100 posts your forum classification changed from greasemonkey to know it all.eveyones does.when you exceed a certain number of posts it will change again.

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by brucstoudt

when you exceeded 100 posts your forum classification changed from greasemonkey to know it all.eveyones does.when you exceed a certain number of posts it will change again.

I figured, kinda joking. I would say they got it backwards but I see the play, encourage people to post so they don't get labeled know it all. I'm on to you xlforum

[IronHeadRon]

Seriously though, my plan TL;DR below

Check concenrtricity of ..... well now that I think about why would the middle parts around the bearings don't do anything do they (well they do, but as long as the brake fits on and wheel spins straight it doesn't matter what the OD's are and if the axle fits tight and no wobble you can assume the I.D. is goid enough), it's really the inner drum and ..... well ideally expanded outer brake (call me out if my terminologies wrong, I thought "shoes" push/hold "pads" via cam lobes in an assembly called the "brake", and they expand against the inner diameter of a "drum" ..... may seem stupid to ask but my naivete here has me questioning everything.

Or maybe it'd be sufficient to make sure curvature is on (if each pad fit in where it's about to expand with no gaps or edges, then it seems to me one could engage the brakes before tightening the adjustment and spin fixing bolt and the brake should center itself ......right)

So after figuring out what and how to check the concenrtricity of what, and if it's in spec I think grinding (or flipping if possible, but why would people grind if that could be done?) Is the first modification needing made. Then, we just have to make sure everything aligned right (clearly it is was badly tilted in a roughly rear-of-tire-towards-left-ish way grinding on the pivot rivet)

I think, if the concenrtricity is good and the Id of the drum is square to the face of back plate on sprocket then, again, wouldn't engaging the brake and tightening the adjustment/spin fixing bolt and spacer leaves it centered? It's the best way I can think of, about to deep dive sporsterpedia and fsm

0. Check if tire wobbkes at all, probably put axle on a couple 4×4' or cut a ture sized hole in shop table, something easily leveled and grooved
1. Check pads fit against thier intended space on drum
2. Assuming, please God, that they do grind or flip cam
3. Then assemble with the spacer/nut combo that fixes adjustment and prevents spin; loose
3.5 engage brake
4. Tighten above nut
5. Test on my long unused ultra visibility stretch if road with, idk traffic cones and my pops' eyes or something
6. Start over if 5 fails, go back to drawing board.

[IronHeadRon]

Hey couldn't I make up for a lack of axle alignment (if I am cursed) grinding cams differently (if one side won't hit drum I grind it less)

That seems like the easiest solution, if your carefull. But I suppose relacing first, to get as close as possible.


The more I think about this the more I know I can do it, just gotta slow down and do it right. But unless my drum is bent or my pads don't fit it (off the brake) then any other issue can be compensated for at the cam...... right?

[IronHeadRon]

OK so hand Fook confirmation my alignment hypothesis (even instructs us to spin the tire hit the brake and tighten the adjustment nut)

Now I just need to Jerry rig a concentricity test (I'm pretty sure they've never been aligned, and it's an "earlier" ironhead so I have high hopes.

And I need to find out if I can flip that cam or have to grind it, and do that.

I have some scrap wood, but do not know if/how I can make a divet for the axle
Maybe I could use the frame somehow


If anyone knows if any shadetree concenrtricity test threads let me know please, other wise I suppose it's up to me

[IronHeadRon]

This seems to be turning into a blog,, please let me know if anyone is interested so I can stop wasting storage space of XLforum if I am..... anyways

OK so green light from Bill at our Harkey shop

1. The hub and brake were confirmed concenrtric
2. He claims that the cam is very difficult to grind and as our wheels ain't looking so hot on the grinder and I own no belt sander, we are going to desperately try to get it installed correctly

If that works, we follow handbook, spin with bolt loose and tighten it with engaged brakes after stop.
If not, I will make another post

[IronHeadRon]

Well, I guess it's worth one more for possible future readers.

For anyone running stock breaks upside down, the preload is greatly reduced by your 90° cam lobes

Not thinking of this, when we did the flip we thought we needed a bigger linkage, but then got nothing.

Switching back to the smaller linkage with significantly more preload before adjusting the ..... I guess other preload, or preseparation nut (the one forward your axle which requires spinning tire, engaging break, then tightening to properly cdnter/stretch/whatever it dies to make the brake work.

This may also be the reason many people think they need to run it under (if they didn'tadjust the nut correctly, it seems it won't reach from above

We still need a good road test, but she feels right and ain't dragging the pivot rivet on the drum anymore, so I am thinking we got her!

I'll post "after" pictures after road test.

[IronHeadRon]

public c1 bike review
Shade Tree brake stop adjustment ^


public c1 bike review

[rokytnji]

ITS JUST A SPORTY ON A JAMMER

OK


Not sure why you want to run a drum brake on a hardtail.
Spacing, bearings , caliper mounting, and axles are going to be one off.
Learned long ago rear axle steel is cold rolled steel.
That is twin piston rear brake caliper from a suzuki and its rear 16 inch wheel.

Good luck with stock drum brake though. Edit. Click the image twice to get full resolution.

[IronHeadRon]

Originally Posted by rokytnji

OK


Not sure why you want to run a drum brake on a hardtail.
Spacing, bearings , caliper mounting, and axles are going to be one off.
Learned long ago rear axle steel is cold rolled steel.
That is twin piston rear brake caliper from a suzuki and its rear 16 inch wheel.

Good luck with stock drum brake though. Edit. Click the image twice to get full resolution.

Just what we have, and the upgrade to disks cones with another fluid, and more parts, killing the minimalism I love about this machine.

Also Jammer designed thus frame for the sporty, so the axle and spacer were dead on. The brake hub and calipers are now that I know how they work (couldn't believe my ignorance on this one. It be embarrassing if I gave xxxx, but it's just a learning experience, albeit a more amateur one than I'd hope after this many years studying this thing)