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  #121  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
iNSaNeSHaNe's Avatar
iNSaNeSHaNe iNSaNeSHaNe is offline
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My last oil pressure switch I got from a cycle supplier did same as yours . . . SO, I went to NAPA and got one out of the parts book, it has a 4 psi switch so works great. I can try to find the part# if you like.
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  #122  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iNSaNeSHaNe View Post
My last oil pressure switch I got from a cycle supplier did same as yours . . . SO, I went to NAPA and got one out of the parts book, it has a 4 psi switch so works great. I can try to find the part# if you like.
Yes, there is no doubt that "aftermarket units" are probably set with higher pressure to switch.
But my concern is that when oil temp is 190° I often have the aftermarket OIL GAUGE near 0 (defintively not near 4psi). This summer stuck in traffic I had it even pegged to 0.
BUT
Having the original oil switch and the red lamp NOT RED, I was not worried because the lamp never became red at Idle not even when oil gauge was 0 . AND I was sure the oil switch was working properly because the red lamp was always ON when starting the engine in the morning just to become OFF after some revolutions of the engine.

Optimist way :Probably the aftermarket oil gauge has a poor resolution on low pressure, it seems working good when the pressure is high.
Pessimist way: there is not enough pressure on my engine.
Oil circulation is a vital thing so I need to investigate better and I ask some help on this.

P.S. the picture I posted with the oil at 5psi it's not at fully warmed engine. I was at about 140-150 °F, so the oil will become even thinner at 190°F.
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1990 Sportster Axtell 90 ci, CP Carrillo 3.875 30° deg pistons,STD Heads, 615V2 RedShift cams, HSR48,
Carrillo 9.638 rods
Hammer Billet Sledge air filter
Hammer Billet Manifold.
160/60ZR17 rear on Akront 4.25" Alu rim
100/90-19 front on Akront 2.50" new Alu rim
YSS 13.75 rear shocks
1975 XLH almost stock
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  #123  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conv90 View Post
Removed the oil filter pad and i checked and re-done all the fittings/hoses.
Replaced the oil pressure switch with a new one.
I have relocated the braided hose for oil pressure gauge to a dual aluminum oil pressure gauge adaptor . It has 2 1/8"NPT threads to put the oil switch too.

I think this new oil pressure switch it's way different than the old one sensing the pressure (the original never changed since 1990).
The old one was switching from red light to OFF when it was sensing a minimal pressure. This one it seems it need at least 8 psi (read at the gauge).

This is scaring me, because when with the OLD oil switch I was with hot oil (190-195°F), the light was OFF. I could see the red light only when kill the bike.

I was accustomed to have near 0 pressure at the gauge at 900-1000 rpm at idle when hot, and with a correct unlite red light.

Now when i reach the correct oil temp, the red light is ON! I really only need to open a bit the accelerator or move from the STOP or traffic light to make it off, but I'm afraid.

I have to say that I looked at the return oil in the bag. At idle I see ONLY just some irregular spitting ... droplets...air mist looking from the oil cap hole.

If i open the throttle and raise the rpm I see a regular constant pressurized flow, so strong that I have to cover the oil cap hole to avoid oil to escape and make dirty the oil tank.

BUT at this point I don't know if this strong returning oil flow is the one from the normal scavenge side OR if it's the oil coming from the oil filter pad where i have modified the bottom part to allow the overpressure spring valve oil to return in the same stock return line.
I'm a bit worried to use the bike with the oil light ON.
My oil flow looked exactly like this until I replaced the oil pump. I'm still using the 4 speed pump
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  #124  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WI_duker View Post
My oil flow looked exactly like this until I replaced the oil pump. I'm still using the 4 speed pump
What do you want to say?
You want to say that when it started to acts like this, you needed to change to a new pump?

(I'm using a 5 speed pump with a scavenge inlet on the neck of the pump that "suks" air from the cam chest).
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  #125  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Remiving Mik for cleaning and checking things I found there 2 vacuum cap broken:




in addition I found the 4 bolts securing the Billet HammerPerformance manifold a bit loose. Sincerely I can't understand how they can be loose.
BTW I replaced the 2 rubber cap and retorqued the manifold bolts.
It seems (probably placebo effect) the bike suns even strong.

I have not yes tried a full warmed (hot) situation to test for ping... but I feel positive.

Anyway , this bike is scaring me. I'm becoming old and I feel afraid by the power it can produce at mid/high opening of the throttle when past 3500/4000 rpm, but at the same time It seems I'm always searching for more power, probably better available at less rpm.
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  #126  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conv90 View Post
Remiving Mik for cleaning and checking things I found there 2 vacuum cap broken:




in addition I found the 4 bolts securing the Billet HammerPerformance manifold a bit loose. Sincerely I can't understand how they can be loose.
BTW I replaced the 2 rubber cap and retorqued the manifold bolts.
It seems (probably placebo effect) the bike suns even strong.

I have not yes tried a full warmed (hot) situation to test for ping... but I feel positive.

Anyway , this bike is scaring me. I'm becoming old and I feel afraid by the power it can produce at mid/high opening of the throttle when past 3500/4000 rpm, but at the same time It seems I'm always searching for more power, probably better available at less rpm.
that is good to read!
with the bolts holding manifold coming loose, Harleys are like a giant impactor, they will crank or loosen anything. but the evo sporty much smoother than some other Harleys when rigid mounted. I've never used Mikuni on Harleys so no experience.
always used S&S , SU & CV. I like the CV on street, but hard to beat the S&S with a TJ for all out HP.
I put a link in my last post with two short vids my motor start up & idling.
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  #127  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Tried the bike this morning , it seems smoother than usual, Not yet tried to test the ping. When I'll return from work I can try it on my preferred road where I can crack on it to WOT starting from 3500.

But I have to solve the oil pressure problem. At the end of the trip to work (about 18 miles) the oil is at 190°C and oil pressure is about 2 to 3 psi.
The oil light is ON, because the new aftermarket oil switch is opening at about 8-9 psi, so I m often with oil light fickering even when I'm at 2000 rpm going slow in the city.
The old original oil switch was OFF (not lite) even at 1 to 2psi oil pressure.

I have to find the time to remove the cam chest cover to check for pinion shaft bushing. I'm a bit afraid that it' loosing pressure leaking oil in to cam chest due a worn bushing.

-----------
Then I'm thinking to a 1" to 7/8" handlebar conversion, in order to use a different grip and brake pump with separate brake oil reservoir.
I'd like a simple handlebar with only 2 ON-OFF switch on left and right (Current ON -right- and Lights -left-) and a momentary on/off push buttons for start (right) . I don't use turning light and horn so for now I need only these switches.
Because it's difficult to find 7/8" bars dimpled... I'd like some switch where I have not to drill the bar so I can use the existing wires and avoid a total rewiring.

Last edited by conv90; 2 Weeks Ago at 11:58..
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