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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #1  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
AudiloveS4 AudiloveS4 is offline
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Default Carb starting issue.

Hey guys, new hear and new to bikes period. I'm a automotive technician, so I'm not new to mechanics and tools, but bikes are a different animal and I'm looking to learn. I've got what seems to be a strang issue.

My 2001 883 I picked up had some god awful gawdy accessories on it and I've been trying to make the bike look a bit cleaner. The previous owner put some huge ugly grips on it that had to go. Watch videos to learn how to do the job then started doing the work. Seems pretty straightforward.

So I put all the slack into the throttle and idle cables so I could get the throttle grip off. Put the new one on and re assembled. Started fiddling with the adjustments and kinda forgot how to adjust, so I put all the slack back into the cables and noticed I pulled the throttle a few times and didnt wanna soak my intake with fuel so I started the bike to use that fuel real quick. It dies only after a couple of seconds with the fuel on, and now it wont start at all, and fuel spits out of the intake when cranking. But the bike ran quite good other than needing to be jetted properly due to the after market filter and exhaust setup that was on the bike.

I read through the adjustment sticky thread up above and have a question. If the cables are completely un-adjusted, will the bike not run at all?

If I'm being stupid or screwed something up I wanna know cause I do wanna learn.

Thanks in advance guys.

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Default

1. Is the butterfly closed?
2. Pilot jet?
3. Needle jet?
4. Main jet?
5. Slide diaphragm seated?
6. Is the enrichener cable seated into the elbow at the carb?
7. Float level as you found it or adjusted?
8. Original vacuum operated petcock?
9. Spark plugs wet?
10. How strong is the spark?
11. Battery voltage
A. Key off?
B. While cranking?
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Default

Here's the Sportsterpedia section on adjusting the Throttle & Idle Cables:
http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/t...hrottle_cables

The fully-loose cables should leave the carb at the Idle Screw setting - basically fully closed.

But check over the SP section linked above and see if you can get the cables right and the carb operating again.

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Default

I don't understand why you would try starting the bike with the throttle cables slack.

Adjust the cables (which is straightforward), then try starting the bike. If you still have a problem, at least you'll know then that it isn't the throttle cables.
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Default

Things are obviously a bit different from what I'm used to. With most car throttle valves (electric or cable) the throttle is open just enough for starting and idling. I did not realize that with the cables loose on the cv carb the butterfky is fully closed. Again, I just didnt wanna soak my filter with fuel as it was starting to back up a bit. However after i stepped back re-read the adjustment procedure and set the cables I did get the bike started. And it runs fine now. Still need to get it jetted properly but runs good now.

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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterdoc View Post
1. Is the butterfly closed?

2. Pilot jet?

3. Needle jet?

4. Main jet?

5. Slide diaphragm seated?

6. Is the enrichener cable seated into the elbow at the carb?

7. Float level as you found it or adjusted?

8. Original vacuum operated petcock?

9. Spark plugs wet?

10. How strong is the spark?

11. Battery voltage

A. Key off?

B. While cranking?
I didnt realize that with the cables fully slacked out the butterfly is completely closed. So it wasnt allowing air or fuel to enter. I properly set the cables and got the bike running. Thanks for the ideas though.

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Default

One thing to check is make sure your throttle blade isn't open too far on idle that your transfer ports are in play.. Till reading and help on here I didn't reslise this was one of my issues from previous owner..

As far as I'm aware now the bike should idle with blade fully closed as it takes air for the idle circuit from the air bleed hole on the front face of carb but I'm sure I will be corrected if I'v got this wrong..
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The throttle plate is not adjusted with the cables. There is a stop screw that you adjust idle speed with. So putting the cables on it should not have made any difference in idle speed. If you are holding the throttle at idle speed with the cable you need to bring the stop screw into play to stop that. I assume this the stock Keihin CV carb?

The throttle plate will be slightly open at idle speed. Like mentioned above, you need to be sure you are not holding it too far open or you will be running on the transfer ports and the idle port at idle and your transfer will suck.

Basically as you adjust the idle using the idle drop method, you lower the idle speed using that stop screw and adjust the idle mix screw for center of drop off zone like any carb, then try lowering the idle speed more and repeat adjusting the idle mix screw. Make sure you don't end up with the cable holding it open some as you seem to have right now. After the idle is adjusted where you want it, then use that stop screw to bring the idle back up to around 1100 rpm. (Adjusting at lowest speed possible makes it easier to hear the drop off).
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