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  #31  
Old 3rd February 2021
needspeed needspeed is offline
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I think that reading this thread gives the impression that you need an assortment of different size reamers to acheive the proper running fit of shaft to bushing.

You only need 1 for every shaft size. As noted by DR. Dick in the thread link in post #12, you use a standard fractional reamer.

The clearence is created by the size of the shaft.

5/8" for pinion shaft
11/16 for 1,3,4 cams
9/16 for idler gear shaft
1-1/8 for #2 cam

As an example I measured some shafts that I have.

5/8 = .625". Pinion shaft measured .6243. So .625-.6243 = .0007 clearence.

11/16 = .6875. Cams measured .6863. So .6875-.6863 =.0012 clearence.

9/16 =.5625. Idler shaft measured .5617. So .5625-.5617=.0008

1-1/8 = 1.125 #2 cam measured 1.122. so 1.125-1.122= .003 clearence.

With the exception of the #2 cam all fall within the FSM range.

Personally I wouldn't try to change that one because it's so much bigger in diameter.
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  #32  
Old 3rd February 2021
11B40 11B40 is offline
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My brother had a 64 that was a real dog. It had a 41/2" stroker in it and should have been fast. I took off the cam cover to see what cams it had and one was so tight that it couldn't be turned by hand. The pin and bushing and cam came out as a unit. I had gorilla hands in those days and it took 10 men and a small horse to pull that cam out. I was surprised that it even ran. Short on time and tools, I used a piece of emery cloth and just reamed it by hand until it turned freely and
put it back together. My brother wasn't about to spend a bunch of money he didn't have splitting cases and knocking out Torrington needles to do it right.
Long story short, after that, the bike ran at Sears Point 106 in 12.80 for 1/4 mile. He never had any problems after that.
A lot of people would just shitcan those shims because they don't have a clue what they are there for. Pulling the cams is the first thing new guys do, Then they take out the oil pump to see if it is OK and put it back without timing it and all of their oil winds up in the primary. Then they used to call to find out where it went.
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  #33  
Old 3rd February 2021
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davixlrtt davixlrtt is offline
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I’m a bit late to the party here, but have you considered just putting Torrington’s in the cover and just worry about reaming the pinion bush?
.......Davi.
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  #34  
Old 6th February 2021
Jaime1840 Jaime1840 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davixlrtt View Post
I’m a bit late to the party here, but have you considered just putting Torrington’s in the cover and just worry about reaming the pinion bush?
.......Davi.
Hey Davi,

No I havent, I already have the bushing, torrington, shims kit so Im going to use that.
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  #35  
Old 6th February 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needspeed View Post
I think that reading this thread gives the impression that you need an assortment of different size reamers to acheive the proper running fit of shaft to bushing.

You only need 1 for every shaft size. As noted by DR. Dick in the thread link in post #12, you use a standard fractional reamer.

The clearence is created by the size of the shaft.

5/8" for pinion shaft
11/16 for 1,3,4 cams
9/16 for idler gear shaft
1-1/8 for #2 cam

As an example I measured some shafts that I have.

5/8 = .625". Pinion shaft measured .6243. So .625-.6243 = .0007 clearence.

11/16 = .6875. Cams measured .6863. So .6875-.6863 =.0012 clearence.

9/16 =.5625. Idler shaft measured .5617. So .5625-.5617=.0008

1-1/8 = 1.125 #2 cam measured 1.122. so 1.125-1.122= .003 clearence.

With the exception of the #2 cam all fall within the FSM range.

Personally I wouldn't try to change that one because it's so much bigger in diameter.
Hey,

I have read that post from Dr.dick but I think it´s going to be cheaper and more precise to send the bushings to the machine shop. I think that If you use a standar reamer without the jigs that come with the proper reamer set from jims you could easily be reaming not straight don´t you think? (Im talking ¡n case you do it by hand).
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  #36  
Old 6th February 2021
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I wonder what putting Torringtons on the cam cover side does to the oiling system?
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  #37  
Old 8th February 2021
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that is done quite often and some think it adds power over the bushing due to less friction. that is debatable to say the least. if the system is working like it should, the journal rides on an oil film, aka, no metal to metal contact.
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  #38  
Old 8th February 2021
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Hi bustert, I don’t think it would be wise to do something to bushes that were within tolerance and I’m not even sure that the bearings that most people are advised to use are the proper size for the shafts anyway. Still, I once had a set of Andrew’s cams that were very tight and instead of sending them back to Andrews to have the gears remachined or broached (like they said they would do if needed) I thought I would just replace the bushings with Torringtons as I had read some people had done this, but my bushings were so good at that time it would have been a shame so I didn’t use the cams on that occasion.
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  #39  
Old 8th February 2021
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that is not a simple swap out.i have a book written by Carl McClanahan describing the procedure.it was for his drag bike.DR DICK mentioned it years ago and noted they're noisy. Mr.Andrews mentioned in his catalog that there was no advantage to it power wise.
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  #40  
Old 7th March 2021
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I Finally found a shop that had the reamers and they are all getting done the right way
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