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lowering shocks

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  #21  
Old 20th November 2019
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Gulf Coaster Gulf Coaster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Don’t know if your twilight harness runs up inside the fender like later EVO rigidly, but the rear tires were able to hit the harness on large bumps causing sorts, something to look at.
Yes! I checked out the wire run under the fender, and there is definitely a suspicious looking part of the wiring that looks damaged, right where you would expect to find it, so good call! I just got the new shocks in, so it is a good time to pull the wheel and look at that wiring, too. Thanks!
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  #22  
Old 20th November 2019
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My old 74 XLCH with stock fender and 2 up I could count on her rubbing signal and taillight wires would be stripped.
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Last edited by ezmerf; 20th January 2020 at 15:55.. Reason: Corrected model
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  #23  
Old 21st November 2019
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Default Shocking the Ironhhead

I got the new shocks yesterday, fully expecting them not to fit. I wasn't disappointed! The Harley shop got them in quickly, but when I got them home, I discovered the fatal difference between the Sporty shocks and the Dyna shocks. Apparently, the lower mounting bracket on the Dyna is about 3/8" wider than the one on the Sportster, meaning the mounting bushing sleeve is that much wider that the one on the Sportster shock, making the Sportster mount too narrow. Both shocks had 1" thick lower mount eyes, so I just ground the sleeves down flush and, "Bob's yer uncle", the shocks went right on.


The fender is going to be resized and moved, so I think it will be fine, eventually.
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  #24  
Old 21st November 2019
kobra50 kobra50 is offline
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If shocks have clevis type mount on the swing arm you have to make sure the bushing on the bottom of the shock will fit in the clevis. Later model swingarms don't have the clevis.
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  #25  
Old 25th November 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportsterpaul View Post
Don’t know if your light harness runs up inside the fender like later EVO rigids but the rear tires were able to hit the harness on large bumps causing sorts, something to look at.
So, I finally removed the rear wheel to get at the inside of the fender and found wiring run up both sides. There was one turn signal wire with damaged insulation, but the wire was still in tact. The tail light issue turned out to be a bad ground. The tail light works now, but neither brake makes the brake light work. Brake light wire is good from the light fixture to the first connector, behind the battery. The front brake lever is pretty wonky, (pulls, but doesn't return all the way) and the whole thing is rather corroded. I rather suspect my issues lie there. Oddly, my shop manual doesn't seem to address either brake switch. I'm hoping I can repair the hand brake. Not sure where I would find a replacement for the whole thing. More discovery learning at hand!
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  #26  
Old 25th November 2019
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Don't be afraid to use a link with a proper spring rate and dampening. Just an inch back on the swing arm changes the vector immensely .
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  #27  
Old 27th November 2019
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I have run all the wires, cleaned and tightened, and so forth and everything seems fine, but the turn signal problem persists. It really seems to be a ground issue, supported by all the crud in the handlebar switch housings. Maybe I'll be able to clean my way out of it. The other issue is the front master cylinder is shot and the piston won't return out of the housing. This makes my brake lever flop around and keeps it from engaging the brake switch, which means it is on all the time. The brake filament in the bulb burnt out, as a result. Hopefully the rebuild kit from DK is the right size. There are several possibilities, but they say the 3/4" is the right size. Happy to hear from anyone who knows for sure!
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Old 20th January 2020
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I appreciate the info on the wiring and so forth. After fooling around with the signals for way too long, I replaced them with LED units. That had always been my intent, and I hoped I would accidentally fix the issue in the process. I ended up with little bright lights with all the same problems. For lack of anything better to try, I reversed the leads on the flasher, and it fixed all the issues. I have no idea why the PO would have messed with it, but there you have it. Since I am a leather worker, I also made this leather seat:
I mounted it with coil springs but didn't like the way it sat. I tried hairpin springs and liked that better.
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  #29  
Old 20th January 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gulf Coaster View Post
I appreciate the info on the wiring and so forth. After fooling around with the signals for way too long, I replaced them with LED units. That had always been my intent, and I hoped I would accidentally fix the issue in the process. I ended up with little bright lights with all the same problems. For lack of anything better to try, I reversed the leads on the flasher, and it fixed all the issues. I have no idea why the PO would have messed with it, but there you have it. Since I am a leather worker, I also made this leather seat:
I mounted it with coil springs but didn't like the way it sat. I tried hairpin springs and liked that better.
Looking good!!!
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  #30  
Old 20th January 2020
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Default Mounted Seat

Here is a picture of the bike with my solo seat mounted. I also removed the side braces on the rear fender and cut it. That was a labor of angst. Since that rear fender is the iconic part of a bobber, I spent a long time working with patterns and deciding how and where to cut it. I wanted to only do it once. ("I don't know what went wrong. I cut it three times and it's still too short!") In the end, I wound up picking a pretty plain design and a pretty safe length. You can see the little LED turn signals I installed. I really like those. After I took this shot, I mounted the front ones. Next issue is back with the carb. I rebuilt it, and it leaks gas from under the accelerator pump boot. Reading here in the forum, I think the float needs to be adjusted.
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