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Sportster Motorcycle Air intake, Carburetor, EFI, Fuel, and Exhaust Problems, advice and/or how tos for Sporster and Buell motorcycle carburators, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI), Air Intake, Fuel and Exhaust.

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  #21  
Old 17th June 2019
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Sportster/Buell Model: XL1200C
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Without pix it never happened !
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2006 Sportster XL1250C
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  #22  
Old 17th June 2019
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Just as I figured. A little rich at idle once it warmed up. 12.5 - 12.8. 12.8 - 13.1 on the needle. Got I to the taper a little and after the initial squirt of fuel dropping it into the upper 12s it leaned out a little,mid to upper 13s. Mid to upper 14s a flash of 15 here and there on decel. Didn't get in yo it for long. Storms rolling in. But overall I'm pretty confident on it's accuracy.
Pics shortly.
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HSR42 25 pilot 2 turns Y8 needle jet 97 needle 2nd groove 170 main
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  #23  
Old 17th June 2019
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The unit initializing when the key is turned on. The needle for lambda data sweeps up and down.

This is the 2 wire harnesses coming out and going in around the neck and under the tank like the rest of my wiring.

Here's the sensor with a 3 foot harness heading for the same place. It plugs into one of the harnesses plugged into the gauge that is 10 feet long.
All going in under the tank and running on top of the backbone. The power one is hooked to a fuse with a mini piggyback set up Rocketman turned me on to.

From the front of the tank on, no wiring is visible

Last edited by 60Gunner; 17th June 2019 at 03:35..
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  #24  
Old 17th June 2019
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Video of first run. Starts out with the enrichner valve pulled all the way out. As I get it pushed in it starts idling close to where I want 13.0 -13.4 but it's not warmed up yet. Once it is it idles 12.5 - 12.7 so I need to drop back to a 25 pilot to start.
Straight part of the needle where cruise is is close but a little rich. Low to mid 13s. It will lean out a little with a leaner pilot. 13.5 to 13.7, 13.8 is my target here.
My initial thoughts on the taper, acceleration 1/4 - 3/4 throttle is maybe a little lean. Not sure yet. Barely got into it once. Here's where I want 12 -12.5 on a hard pull.On decel I get a little popping and it hits 15 here and there. May be normal with open baffled exhaust it says. Maybe not enough decel timing. This is where they say these motors need 50° of timing. High rpm decel.
Tomorrow should be nice and mid 70s. Hope to get it dialed in a little better but it's close.
Overall I'm pretty pleased with this gauge. I think it's a great tool. But you can't skimp on these. It needs the good Bosch LSU4.9 sensor.


https://youtu.be/pIsyFw_09hw

Last edited by 60Gunner; 17th June 2019 at 03:49..
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  #25  
Old 17th June 2019
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There's 2 more wires on the power harness I'm not using. It can connect to a data logger or to a computer using serial. It can be integrated into controlling EFI. Way over my head atm but it's a top notch setup. Comes with a white faceplate with chrome ring too.
There's also a 4 way switch/screw on the back to change modes. P0 -P4. P0/P1 is default and what I need to do AFR on the digital readout. The factory calibration is dead on tho you can calibrate if you so desire.

When I'm done, if there's any interest in this, I'd like to use it as a forum rental tool. Not to make money but to try and recoup a little and maybe save someone $150. I dropped $150`on this set up to use it for a few days.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 17th June 2019 at 04:10..
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  #26  
Old 19th June 2019
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Since you have the Wide Band hooked up,

What AFR do you see when doing the idle mixture setup recommended for the HSR carbs?
AFR at turned in until slows / irregular
AFR at turned out until it slows or is irregular.
If set to middle position between the two, what AFR?

Next, run the engine until it reaches normal running temperature.
With the engine idling smoothly, adjust the pilot air screw in slowly
until the idle either slows or becomes irregular, then turn the screw out until
the engine again slows or begins to idle irregularly.
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  #27  
Old 19th June 2019
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13.3-13.5. A little leaner than I like for an idle but probably about right for most street bikes. I prefer more around 12.9-13.1 for an idle. Seems to idle a little better and cooler. Especially if you ever get stuck in traffic on a 95° day.
That said, you can get a couple different jets to work for idle with the screw but go with the one that transitions the smoothest to the needle.
I ended up at the 25 at 2 - 2 1/8 turns but it's also been a pretty cool spring. If I end up going past 2 1/2 turns when it ever gets warm out, I may even end up with the 22.5.
Keep in mind I'm a 1250 with the 570s at 630' above sea level so for a lot of you a 20 would probably be about right. Maybe 22.5.
The 97 needle puts me right around 13.4 - 13.6. Some like it a little leaner there for better mpg as this is where you cruise. I3.9 - 14.1 even.
At the middle groove with the clip I'll drop to the low 12s hammering down. Even 11.9 briefly. I might be a little rich here and I might try dropping the needle back down a notch but this isn't a good place to be lean if you twist it like I do. If anything I'd like to try a Y8 needle jet and drop in the 98 needle at groove 2 but probably won't at this point.
The main I think I'm pretty good at 170. Maybe a little rich? It was hard to read the gauge at this point and not crash but I don't want want to run out of juice when I do get into the main. I'm usually only there for 1 reason.
Also keep in mind I ended up with the 60 pump nozzle coming on a little late with this setup.

I was surprised at how much it leans out on decel overall.

I had to pull this gauge yesterday and probably won't run it again so it's up for grabs. If there's enough interest, I'll rent it out cheap for those that want it for set up like I did. Most likely sell it.
I had to change pipes because the ones I had installed had a sharp edge that cut into the SE style gaskets. I couldn't keep the flanges tight. They need the stock gaskets. I opted to cut my drag pipes that are flat at the end and no longer have a bung. The gauge comes with one to weld in but I learned what I need to so it's doubtful I will since it was never my intention to run the gauge permanently.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 19th June 2019 at 16:24..
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  #28  
Old 19th June 2019
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All good work you have done, enjoyed the write-ups.
Is the socket head screw in the stem loose? Usually holds the brake line.
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  #29  
Old 19th June 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harley506d View Post
All good work you have done, enjoyed the write-ups.
Is the socket head screw in the stem loose? Usually holds the brake line.
Yes it is. I just stuck it back in there. I toyed with running the sensor wire thru it but didn't care for it anymore than I did my new brake line.
I should add that while maybe dropping $150ish on a gauge like this to use a few days might seem excessive, keep in mind what a dyno tune costs. You might think you got it right by ear, most of you would probably be surprised it's not as good as you think. Hate to find out the hard way. Especially after the money I've dropped on this build.

Last edited by 60Gunner; 19th June 2019 at 20:13..
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