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  #11  
Old 7th July 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99hugger View Post
Thank you for the replies guys. Unfortunately I don't have the $ for a new battery today. I'll try and find somebody that can load test it. Strange thing is even with jumper cables directly from battery cables to truck battery it still won't turn over, just clicks, but does actually have power so yeah my battery is bad. Start truck and it will start also. I just find it weird that big battery won't start the bike. Is that just because of the long cables and their connections? In the meantime can someone give me the resistance and voltage specs for the charging system. And is there a way to know if the starter sylonoid is going bad? I just wanna know what keeps killing batteries.
Jumping a motorcycle 101: NEVER jump a bike with a car battery WHILE the car is running. All those Amps can destroy electronic modules, burn points and melt wiring. Jump it with the car NOT running. If it won't start then the motorcycle battery has a short or a dead cell. If the battery in the motorcycle is just weak or almost dead then when you are jumping it with a car (not running), the motorcycle battery will draw the necessary amps it needs from the car battery and it will start or at least crank like a SOB. Never crank the motor for more than 30 seconds as you will melt the battery terminals and cables.
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  #12  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I apologize for not responding back. It was the battery like everyone said. Took it to auto store had it load tested and nothing. It had around 13v and was fully charged. With a load 0 volts. I never had a battery do that before. Its running again, thank you all
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  #13  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Glad it's working. Thanks for responding back to the forum. I wish more people would follow your example. We all learn from things like this. It adds value to this forum.
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  #14  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99hugger View Post
Took it to auto store had it load tested and nothing.
As the Sportsterpedia section discusses, the four voltage tests (key off, on, cranking, running) provide a wealth of feedback about the health of the battery & charging system...

Cranking the bike puts a substantial load (up to 200a draw) on the battery and the voltage should not fall below 10.5v in a normal start sequence (cranking less than 5 seconds)... If it does fall below 10.5v, it is extremely likely that the load test on the battery at the auto store is going to show a defective battery...

Glad you got it running - Now enjoy your time in the wind...


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  #15  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Thank you. Mine went to zero volts just turning the the key on. Not cranking. Which made think it was something else, especially since battery was just replaced. But ya learn something new everyday lol
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  #16  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
ken883/1200 ken883/1200 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99hugger View Post
Thank you. Mine went to zero volts just turning the the key on. Not cranking. Which made think it was something else, especially since battery was just replaced. But ya learn something new everyday lol
Were you able to get warranty on the battery?
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