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Sportster Motorcycle - Bottom End Cams, Cases, Gears, Flywheel, Piston Conecting Rods, Oil Pump, etc...

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  #1  
Old 29th December 2012
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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Default EVO XL Case Splitting Pictorial (How To Split Rigid EVO Sportster Cases)

it's a good feeling to send stuff off to experts and get it back knowing it is right and proper and if you do it once every couple years no big deal.

but i expect that i will be dealing with crank spread on a regular basis if i keep pushing stock parts to 140+ hp for miles at a time and shipping a bottom end off everytime it needs some attention is just not cost effective both in time and money.

so... here we go. a pretty pic thread from start, and hopefully with luck and guidance, to finish.

I will start work on this monday but posting up early to make sure t's are dotted and i's are crossed. please speak up if it seems i am heading for trouble.

Splitting the cases is no problem, nuts bolts retainer clips, few solid whacks with rawhide and it should come apart.

FSM just says to press the crank out by pressing the shaft. seems simple enough. it also says not to 'drive' the flywheel assembly out. are they implying that a BFH is not the optimal approach?

what could go wrong?
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  #2  
Old 29th December 2012
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Beating the crank out with a hammer will damage the end of the crank (flywheel). It could also cause the crank pin to move in the flywheels.
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  #3  
Old 29th December 2012
bitpusher bitpusher is offline
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FSM doesn't say anything about yanking yur crank, though
  #4  
Old 2nd January 2013
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Default

I used a press. I was surprised how much pressure it took. I was afraid it was going to damage the case half. I would love to know what has been done to your crank to limit spread. I have thought th elate model 1.5" crankpin Buell wheels would be great for high HP. There is a guy who has posted over in the buell forum that has an engine with one of these pushing 180hp.
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Old 2nd January 2013
JR Maley JR Maley is offline
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From what I understand truing a crank is something one gets a feel for. as you tighten the nuts the wheels want to move. I think experience is the way to get a feel for how much they move.
  #6  
Old 2nd January 2013
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I'd have to say that the pro's have a set-up to do the job properly. Correct?
With your talent for building things, why not build your own rig? It's not like it would only get used once.
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  #7  
Old 7th February 2013
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Default

after you remove everything from the cases i.e. transmission, clutch, rotor, stator, cams, oil pump etc, you will need to remove your pinion gear and oil pump gear. DONT LOSE THE KEY. (look elsewhere for guidance on this and make sure you do i right. don't lock the primary side and crank the pinion nut off! you just may twist your crank!)


c

the parts you should have in front of you..

b


primary side is where all the screws are.

there are 3 1/4 socket heads bordering the flywheel and one long 1/4" socket head holding the cases together at the crotch of the cylinders.

there are 4 t-40 torx screws at the bottom of the flywheel.

d


now you should have these parts in front of you

e

get your self a SOFT BFH, rubber deadblow or rawhide, and firmly tap the cases to separate. i tapped on the oil pump housing and the rear mount. do this in small even increments to clear the locating pins shown on each side.

once the halves are clear of the pins you can easily wiggle the gearcase side off the flywheel.


f

g

oops. fergot there's oil in them thar cases.

h

you can just barely see the locating pins

i

set up your press. i used equal height blocks of wood as the spigot crotch on my cases is very very slight.

make sure you are not resting on your rod ends and that the flywheel has room to drop.

j


and then just slowly and firmly press STRAIGHT DOWN on the pinion shaft until the crank falls loose. KEEP YOUR HAND UNDER THE FLYWHEElS TO CATCH THE CRANK ASSEMBLY!


k

here are the parts you should have in front of you...

l


oooh, something shiny! backup engine pistons has gas ports, ceramic top coating and teflon skirt coating. too bad they are the wrong compression height for my heads. made 140hp with them though. problem being solved right now. custom pistons...

m


job complete
  #8  
Old 7th February 2013
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JR Maley View Post
I would love to know what has been done to your crank to limit spread.
i would tell you but then aaron would have to kill you. errr, me .

oh wait, you are null and void. lol.
  #9  
Old 7th February 2013
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Great thread with great pics Sky; thread stuck.
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Old 7th February 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bitpusher View Post
after you remove everything from the cases i.e. transmission, clutch, rotor, stator, cams, oil pump etc, you will need to remove your pinion gear and oil pump gear. DONT LOSE THE KEY. (look elsewhere for guidance on this and make sure you do i right. don't lock the primary side and crank the pinion nut off! you just may twist your crank!)
I just put a dowel through the wrist pin bushing on of the connecting rods. As you turn the nut on the crank the dowel eventually hits the case deck and stops the crank from moving. wa-la
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